NanoTank1 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Decided on a pump. I'm going with the Sicce Syncra Nano. It only consumes 2.8 watts of power and is tiny. It's fairly weak pump at 110 gph, which should be fine. Still have to decide on a chiller. Namely, whether to use my existing Chill Solutions CSCX-1 or splurge for a new one. Where is that perfect trifecta of: inexpensive, powerful, and small??? Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Alright, I have a separate question. How would you plumb the inside of a pico tank that has bottom bulkheads? I am going to use two double-threaded bulkheads positioned towards the back wall on each side of the bottom. The rational part of me says: Use some PVC and build up the height a few inches. That way if the tank springs a leak the occupants will survive as the whole tank won't drain out. Another part of me says, no, no. The whole point for bottom bulkheads is to hide them. Stick on two flat bulkhead strainers and be done with it. Use rocks for the base instead of sand and you should be fine. A third part says, let's compromise. Use some lo####e and at least you can direct the flow. Thoughts?? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 For the drain, you can run it low and stealthy. Like I mentioned before, you may want to add a small section of pvc to get the drain above the sand, if you are using sand. As for the return, I think you should add something just to you don't have the flow pointing directly to the surface. Directing the flow more into the middle of the tank will give you better circulation. There are many ways you can do that, including using loc-line, and drilling holes at angles into pvc with a pipe cap on the end. Don'f forget that you can use rock to hide these components. Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Thanks. Alright, I think I figured the plumbing out and placed my order. Going with a low profile strainer on the intake and locline on the return. For the drain, you can run it low and stealthy. Like I mentioned before, you may want to add a small section of pvc to get the drain above the sand, if you are using sand. As for the return, I think you should add something just to you don't have the flow pointing directly to the surface. Directing the flow more into the middle of the tank will give you better circulation. There are many ways you can do that, including using loc-line, and drilling holes at angles into pvc with a pipe cap on the end. Don'f forget that you can use rock to hide these components. Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Still would like advice on selecting a chiller for this 1 gallon temperate pico tank. What chiller do you think would be safe even if the temperature swings up to 95 degrees and I need a consistent 55 degrees? Form-factor-wise I'd still prefer a smaller chiller over a large, bulky one. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Any traditional chiller (i.e. not one based on peltier units) will be able to keep that tiny volume of water at a rock steady 55 degrees regardless of the ambient tempterature. Even some of the peltier units should work, like the Ice-Probe, but they don't lend themselves very well to inline applications. Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Interesting to know how things work. I just finished a Youtube video on peltier coolers. Any traditional chiller (i.e. not one based on peltier units) will be able to keep that tiny volume of water at a rock steady 55 degrees regardless of the ambient tempterature. Even some of the peltier units should work, like the Ice-Probe, but they don't lend themselves very well to inline applications. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Youtube - the great educator and waster of time across the globe Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 I could do work, ... I should do work, ... I know I should do work ... ohhhhhh, Youtube that sounds good. Youtube - the great educator and waster of time across the globe Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Anyone have ideas for a stand for this tank? I'd like to keep the stand on top of my desk and use it to hide the bottom-routed chiller and pump, along with any tubing. Right now I'm sticking with the CSXC-1 chiller that I have and am planning for that. So a stand that is roughly one foot in height will bring the tank to eye level (yes, I'm fairly tall;->). Not sure if there is an 'Ikea' option out there that someone has tried? Or if the better route is building my own? Looking for creative solutions... On the plus side, at 1 gallon of water, the stand has to hold virtually no weight!! Link to comment
AquaticEngineer Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 How old is the CSXC-1 chiller? Some of their first ones had a thermostat regulator that only allowed them to chill down to 60F and then they turned off. I was using one of those early ones on an Aqueon 8 and it could only keep my tank at about 62 degrees when my house was about 70F. Supposedly, the later models (current ones) are coldwater ready and have no thermostat restriction in them. About the smallest footprint compressor based chiller I have found is the Resun Mini 200. But its still larger than your entire tank, lol. Here's my most recent 7 gallon Micro-reefs AIO tank with a Resun Mini 200 inside the stand. The whole footprint is only 12"x12". https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152740131006056&l=ef2d567aa0 For the stand just buy one of those ikea decorative cubes, Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 The CSXC-1 chiller that I have is a newer ones. I still don't have great faith that it can pull down the temperature in a 1 gallon 3/4" thick acrylic tank a massive 40 degrees or so and keep it there. Prior to the arrival of the tank I'll experiment with a (obviously non-insulated) one gallon water jug. I'll post the results of my experiment here. I had seen the Resun mini 200 as well. I'll go with that if my 'experiment' fails. Good to know that it is the smallest footprint compressor based chiller you have found. Really cool how you have the tank arranged. Guess I should gear up for a trip to Ikea (including for some Swedish meatballs). How old is the CSXC-1 chiller? Some of their first ones had a thermostat regulator that only allowed them to chill down to 60F and then they turned off. I was using one of those early ones on an Aqueon 8 and it could only keep my tank at about 62 degrees when my house was about 70F. Supposedly, the later models (current ones) are coldwater ready and have no thermostat restriction in them. About the smallest footprint compressor based chiller I have found is the Resun Mini 200. But its still larger than your entire tank, lol. Here's my most recent 7 gallon Micro-reefs AIO tank with a Resun Mini 200 inside the stand. The whole footprint is only 12"x12". https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152740131006056&l=ef2d567aa0 For the stand just buy one of those ikea decorative cubes, Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 I purchased 1/2" ID vinyl tubing from Marine Depot. On barbed ends the tubing fits great. The problem is with the one mini pump that I have. The end is not barbed and the fit from the tubing is every so slightly too loose. Any steps that I can take to ensure the connection doesn't leak outside of using a plastic hose clamp??? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 This is a common problem you will run into with metric pumps (basically anything that isn't designed specifically for the US market). Best thing to do would be to get a short length of 3/8" ID tube, heat it up in hot water, and force it onto the fitting on the pump. You will then need a 3/8" to 1/2" barb adapter (you should be able to find those at the hardware store fairly easily). You may need to do that on both ends of the pump. Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 This is a common problem you will run into with metric pumps (basically anything that isn't designed specifically for the US market). Best thing to do would be to get a short length of 3/8" ID tube, heat it up in hot water, and force it onto the fitting on the pump. You will then need a 3/8" to 1/2" barb adapter (you should be able to find those at the hardware store fairly easily). You may need to do that on both ends of the pump. Thanks. That is great advice! I looked it up online and the Home Depot near me doesn't have 3/8" ID vinyl tubing. Any harm in using 3/8" PVC tubing? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Vinyl will stay flexible longer and doesn't degrade under UV lighting (you will still have some UV in fluorescent light sources, as well as daylight). Shop around and get the right stuff. Link to comment
AquaticEngineer Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 For testing temperature pull down on the CXSC-1 find yourself a small lunch box cooler or thermos and fill it with the same volume as your tank will be. Run it on that and if it can't cool that down then I would start looking for a new chiller. A thermos or cooler will insulate FAR better than even the acrylic tank, so if the chiller cannot keep one of those down to your desired temperature range then it will definitely not do it on the acrylic tank. Link to comment
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