New Stand Design - Updated with pictures!

[WibblyPig]

How comfortable are you with the circular saw you're going to rent? If you put the 1x2s there, I would do it as a half lap joint and not rely on a mechanical fastener

 

 

You could also dado the inside of the 1x3/1x4 frames and recess the side panels for a nicer look. Glue them in place and it will never rack. And cutting a dado with a circular saw isn't hard. "Joists" between the "beams" aren't really necessary since the corner posts are carrying all the weight.

 

If you're not used to working with wood, and plan on having a natural finish (as opposed to painting), I would do it all in maple or clear pine and birch plywood. Use liquid hide glue instead of white or yellow glue. If you're planning on staining it and you don't get ALL the excess glue wiped off, hide glue is much more forgiving. I personally never stain wood - if it needs to be dark, I use walnut, light is maple, etc. Just a few coats of shellac and it will be good to go. Yes - shellac - not poly, not spar varnish, not BLO. I had a 65 gallon tank that was surrounded by old growth oak wainscoating and canopy and finished off with shellac. The shellac held up perfectly over the 10 years that the tank was there and had gallons of salt and RO/DI spilled on it with no effect.

[VW_TDI_02]

Not 100% sure if I got this right but maybe. For the 1x2s, do you mean that I would have them running perpendicular instead of parallel to the back and front beams? That is I would have a half lap joint on the two beams going from left to right. In the attached picture there would be those joints wherever there is a circle. This way I would be able to set the plywood right on top and I would just have to notch the corners where the corner posts are. The joints should be too hard to make but I would have to get a chisel as well. I'm not sure what I'm going to do in regards to color but I was hoping to make it dark in order to match the furniture. If not I can always just paint it black since I do already have some black furniture. As of now I've stopped messing with the design since I got my package from BRS and am finally able to set up my dual reactor. Unfortunately, I got the reactor used and this thing leaks like no tomorrow and the pump is incredibly loud. Waiting on a response from the user I bought it from because this thing is absurdly loud and completely unacceptable.

 

[ajmckay]

Stand looks nice. I like your current design.

 

Unfortunately I'm not sure what advice I can offer... I like the suggestions that wibbly gave, though at the same time feel like they may be above some people's skills... I have access to a lot more than a circular saw and I would be nervous doing those types of joints. Then again maybe I just need to try them on some scrap wood and I can prove that they're not that hard... If I understand them though, the surfaces need to be very smooth and match pretty much perfectly, correct wibbly? After all, it's the strength of the glue and maximizing surface area that makes these strong I believe.

 

Another fastening method you could potentially use are pocket hole screws. Then you could reinforce the upper runners by building a second square of 1x4's inside that one (essentially doubling up the weight bearing beams and the number of fasteners). Just a thought. Also, I've had the best success with Spax brand screws from Home Depot. I don't even mess with the regular screws anymore. They're high grade steel, self piloting, and use a torx drive so you don't strip heads.

 

I do agree that we tend to overbuild our stands though... It's the good intentioned engineer inside all of us Hahaha!

[VW_TDI_02]

Stand looks nice. I like your current design.

 

Unfortunately I'm not sure what advice I can offer... I like the suggestions that wibbly gave, though at the same time feel like they may be above some people's skills... I have access to a lot more than a circular saw and I would be nervous doing those types of joints. Then again maybe I just need to try them on some scrap wood and I can prove that they're not that hard... If I understand them though, the surfaces need to be very smooth and match pretty much perfectly, correct wibbly? After all, it's the strength of the glue and maximizing surface area that makes these strong I believe.

 

Another fastening method you could potentially use are pocket hole screws. Then you could reinforce the upper runners by building a second square of 1x4's inside that one (essentially doubling up the weight bearing beams and the number of fasteners). Just a thought. Also, I've had the best success with Spax brand screws from Home Depot. I don't even mess with the regular screws anymore. They're high grade steel, self piloting, and use a torx drive so you don't strip heads.

 

I do agree that we tend to overbuild our stands though... It's the good intentioned engineer inside all of us Hahaha!

I'm still not completely sure about doing those joints myself. Originally I was planning on using pocket hole screws for pretty much the hole thing and I may still do them instead of the half lap joints. I do think that instead of doing a second box on the inside of the tank, I may just do those same crossbeams like with the half lap joints but instead of doing those I would just screw them in.

 

For the top, I'm still not sure what I'm going too be doing. I could just have a piece of plywood on top with some molding that extends out a bit and call it a day. The other option I was thinking about was tossing a piece of plywood right on top that is the exact size of the top. That would be where the stand would sit. I would then add on a second piece of wood that surrounds the tank and that would be the nice piece with the molding and what not. This would also give the tank a nice recessed look and hide the algae on my sand bed. haha.

[WibblyPig]

Screwing the top stretchers isn't a problem - they contribute very little to the structure- mainly just there to keep everything the correct distance apart. The bottom shelf is the problem. With a 20 gallon sump on it, there's going to be a lot of weight and screws have no shear strength (lateral strength).

 

Don't let the half laps scare you off. All you need is a circular saw and a chisel. A 1x is 3/4" thick so your joint depth is 3/8" deep. Set the saw for a 3/8" cut and just make sure your outside cuts are splitting the line. After that, hog out everything in between and then use a chisel to make the bottom smooth. Glue it and clamp it and you're a wood worker!

[VW_TDI_02]

Screwing the top stretchers isn't a problem - they contribute very little to the structure- mainly just there to keep everything the correct distance apart. The bottom shelf is the problem. With a 20 gallon sump on it, there's going to be a lot of weight and screws have no shear strength (lateral strength).

 

Don't let the half laps scare you off. All you need is a circular saw and a chisel. A 1x is 3/4" thick so your joint depth is 3/8" deep. Set the saw for a 3/8" cut and just make sure your outside cuts are splitting the line. After that, hog out everything in between and then use a chisel to make the bottom smooth. Glue it and clamp it and you're a wood worker!

Well I guess I'm going to go with the half lap joint. I think I'll test it out on some scrap wood before trying to do it on the final pieces. The bottom is not only going too have a 20 gallon sump but it's also going to be holding a 5 gallon reservoir just to tack on an extra bit of weight. haha. If all goes well I should be getting at it this upcoming week.

[WibblyPig]

Just jump in your car and come to St. Louis, it would probably take an hour to do it in my shop. Do you go to UNC? See if you can track down someone in the theater department that builds sets. They'd have access to the tools and probably help you for some beer.

[VW_TDI_02]

Just a 12 hour car ride. haha. After going over it again, it really shouldn't be all that difficult to do and I'm pretty confident I should be able to do it. Just to be sure, I'll make sure to test it out just so that I can get the hang of it. I ended up looking up a video of it and it looks to be surprisingly easy. After getting it all assembled, I'm going to sand it all down in order to make sure I have nice and smooth joints. The only thing I'm not sure about is painting it. After I get done making my lesson plan for tomorrow I'll be finishing up my design. and I'll make sure to post the final design or any problems I run into.

[VW_TDI_02]

Quick question. I'm doing the design right now and dealing with the half laps but I was thinking about altering it a bit. I'm going to be using 1x2s that are on their sides while the beams are 1x2s but sitting on their edge. Could I simply notch out a 1" slot and just sit the beam in there instead of slotting both of them? Pretty much what you see in the picture.

[RK_tek]

Yes you can.

[VW_TDI_02]

Yes you can.

Thanks. Just making sure. I think I have a final design. Only thing missing are some shelves for the electronics. Still not sure if I want to mount them on the wall or what.

[RK_tek]

I used to have mine mounted on the short sides of the stand, but it was always a pain to see the displays at 90 degrees, so I built a box for all the wires and the controls mount on the front

[VW_TDI_02]

I used to have mine mounted on the short sides of the stand, but it was always a pain to see the displays at 90 degrees, so I built a box for all the wires and the controls mount on the front

 

Good point. I'm still not completely sure. I have a controller for my lights, RW-4, and my reefkeeper lite so I'm not sure where I'm going to put all of those. I can easily put my light controller underneath since I rarely ever change that but I use my reefkeeper light and jebao controllers every day so I want them on the outside.

[ajmckay]

Quick question. I'm doing the design right now and dealing with the half laps but I was thinking about altering it a bit. I'm going to be using 1x2s that are on their sides while the beams are 1x2s but sitting on their edge. Could I simply notch out a 1" slot and just sit the beam in there instead of slotting both of them? Pretty much what you see in the picture.

 

I'm not so sure that you can... Maybe see what mr. wibblypig thinks, but a 1x2 is actually 0.75"x1.5". I can deflect a 4" piece easily with my hands - and that's on edge. On the face side I can break it in half quite easily.

 

In a stand build I would try to have everything on edge to support your plywood.

 

Regarding the "notch" that you're taking out of the 1x2 runner IMO that may not work. You're reducing that joint to half it's thickness (3/4") and you're doing it on an edge. When working with floor joists, you can drill holes through the middle up to a certain % of their height. But as soon as you notch in from an edge the load bearing capabilities drop off quickly. Granted you're replacing the section you cut out with more wood, so as long as it's fastened properly it should maintain it's integrity, though the joint would need to be very good - no slop or extra pressure, look for a perfect fit. where it won't slide in an out freely but all it needs is a light tap to get it to drop in. Either way too much work for middle supports which IMO can just be glue/screw.

 

I think the bottom runners should be beefed up to 1x4's. I don't think it's as important what you use for the middle supports - IME 1x2's on edge and screws could be fine. I do think it's most important that the joint where the horizontal runners meet up with the vertical uprights is the most heavily reinforced. That's where all the shear stress is going to be and where the lap joints will be most effective.

 

So in other words put your "laps" on the uprights where the horizontal runners meet and at the ends of the horizontal pieces. Trace the load from the tank... The tank is sitting on the plywood, which is supported by the horizontal runners and the cross braces, which are finally supported by the vertical legs. As long as your "shelf" isn't deflecting by itself the stress is at the joint where everything meets the legs.

[VW_TDI_02]

The plan was to glue and screw in the pieces so that there is a nice snug fit and no room for play. For the connection between the runners and the vertical beams I was planning on using pocket hole screws in order to attach them. Another option would be to have a simple corner shelf bracket on the inside of each of the corner beams. I think I may step it up to 1x3s for the horizontal runners for the bottom.

[afyounie]

I made my stand from a single piece of 4x8x3/4" plywood. Used rabbit joints from the top, shelf, and bottom. Used glue and screws for the top and bottom shelf. Just glue for center shelf. Front has a frame around the edge and doors in the center. Back just has a frame. Been going a year with no problems. Figured it wouldn't since most commercial stands are made of laminated MDF.

 

Edit: If I could do it again, I'd make it so the shelf wasn't the full depth of the stand. Been a major PITA.

[RK_tek]

I've made 3 stands and they've all been out of plywood. You just have to work withing the woods capabilities. My 55 sat on a single layer of 3/4 ply, but it had vertical support every 12".

[VW_TDI_02]

I made my stand from a single piece of 4x8x3/4" plywood. Used rabbit joints from the top, shelf, and bottom. Used glue and screws for the top and bottom shelf. Just glue for center shelf. Front has a frame around the edge and doors in the center. Back just has a frame. Been going a year with no problems. Figured it wouldn't since most commercial stands are made of laminated MDF.

 

Edit: If I could do it again, I'd make it so the shelf wasn't the full depth of the stand. Been a major PITA.

Thanks for that edit. Shelves are still up in the air. I don't want to have them on the sides because it would make them more difficult to get to but I do need a place for the electronics. Unfortunately I have a lot of reading to knock out before tomorrow so I don't think I'll have time to mess with the design tonight.

[afyounie]

Yeah, if you have shelves on the inside, which I recommend, just make sure they don't restrict access to the sump. While my skimmer and such fit in the sump, getting them into the sump is like playing tetris.

[VW_TDI_02]

Yea, being able to get the skimmer cup off easily is definitely a priority. Another thing would be the piping for the return. That's coming straight up from the pump with the check valve, ball valve, and unions so I want to make sure that I don't run into any problems. While I can cut holes, I would rather have it open where I don't have to reach around anything on a shelf in order to adjust something. I'm also wondering about where I'm going to mount the PC4s for my reefkeeper so that's another issue I need to think about. I may end up just mounting all that stuff on the inside of one of the doors and then have the head unit on the outside somewhere.

[VW_TDI_02]

So I think I have a final design with the exception of the shelves. They should be pretty easy to add on later though. I was way over thinking the whole thing. Why bother trying to attach it when I can just make a 2x4 box and sit it there on the floor. Toss in a piece of plywood the shape of the base and I'm done.

 

[VW_TDI_02]

Well the stand is coming together!! So far I only have the frame done but it's about time for me to start cleaning up for the night. Still need to buy some plywood for the back, sides, and something for the lid. Also I need to give this thing a good sanding and prep it for paint. I think I'm going to end up staining it and then coating it in polyurethane but if that doesn't look right then I'll just paint the whole thing black. My living room has a sofa and coffee table that are black and then the tv stand and the other fish tank are dark wood so I'm a bit stuck. haha. Oh, and the next issue I need to tackle is transport. I have a Toyota Corolla so I'm not really sure how I'm going to get a sheet of 48" plywood home... Going to need to look around and see if anyone has a pickup I can borrow. The back panel is going to be 37x48 and the side panels are going to be 32"x14" I think. It's already looking pretty sturdy and that back panel of 3/4" plywood should make this thing rock solid. I even did a few dips in the middle of it and it felt completely solid. I also lucked out in that it is nearly perfectly level. Not sure how that happened but I'm happy. Sorry about the camera, it's just my phone in a poorly lit room. This is also the beauty of living alone. I made this in my living room since I'm in an apartment complex. Pretty sure if I lived with someone they would not have been happy with me using a circular saw in the living room... haha. Oh, I ended up just buying a circular saw. It's nothing special (SkilSaw) and was only $40 but for what I need, it will do the job. They wanted $25 to rent one for a weekend so this was a better deal.

 

2015-03-07_07-20-50 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

2015-03-07_07-21-43 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

2015-03-07_07-22-23 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

 

 

Also just wanted to say thanks to everyone who helped me put this thing together. Still going to need a bit of help in order to finish it but so far so good. Still not sure what I'm going to do about doors. Originally I was planning on doing two large doors but that would mean some very large doors.

[VW_TDI_02]

I do have an update on the stand and the tank. Since my camera sucks (phone) I am not going to even try to take some up close shots of my acan lord. It's got a few little buds coming off the bottom that even have little feeder testicles. They're still about 1/8" in diameter though. Have 3-4 of them I think.

 

In regards to the stand, I'm definitely making progress. So far I've got the frame all set up, added the back plywood and also added plywood on the inside of the sides. This thing is surprisingly light but strong and rigid. I've also begun sanding and I can only say that it is coming but it's awful. The corner pillars are the toughest since there is such a long joint where the 1x3s and the 1x4s connect and I want to get that completely smooth. At most it's about 1/16, maybe a little more, but it's still quite a bit when sanding by hand without a belt sander or anything like that. I did make one major mistake though but it isn't critical. For the base, I made a rectangle out of 1x4s and then nailed a piece of plywood on top of it. I had it cut from a full sheet at Lowe's since I drive a Corolla and there's no way I'm fitting a full sheet in there, haha. I had just gotten done cutting the side panels at home so I had the number 16 fresh in my head and I ended up cutting the base board down to 16" so now there is a nice gap of a few inches. It's not awful and I'm going to keep it like that for now. The way I made it, the stand and the base board (the one on top of the rectangle) are completely independent of each other. That should make it a bit easier for moving since it will cut down a good bit of weight from the stand but it's not really a big deal. I can use that extra gap for cables anyways so that's a plus. The doors are definitely going to be tricky and here is where I made my second mistake. I haven't been able to find doors large enough for my stand so I'm going to be making them out of 4 pieces of wood. My plan is to have two doors but each door will be made up of two boards. One will be attached to the frame with a regular hinge and the other one will be attached to that board in an accordion-like fashion. I have some magnets for the middle just to keep the doors closed too. My plan is to clamp together all 4 boards and from there make sure that they are all exactly the same but here comes my mistake. Instead of using 10" wide boards which would have been perfect, I accidently grabbed 12" wide boards which are too big. As a result, I'm going to have to trim each of the boards by two inches. After that is when I'll be clamping them all down and getting them exactly the same. From there I'll be able to add the hinges and all that good stuff. The top will be the last thing I add. My plan is to screw some boards into the top and those will function as guides. I'll have them set up on the inside corners of the stand so they will be all lined up. I don't think I'm going to bother screwing it down simply because the weight of the tank will hold it down easily. That's about all I got done today. Will have to get some sleep and start again tomorrow.

 

 

The lid:

2015-03-08_11-54-44 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

Getting there

2015-03-08_11-54-05 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

2015-03-08_11-53-32 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

[VW_TDI_02]

So the stand is almost done. Here is what I have left:

 

Hole for overflow

Hole for return

Shelves

Figure out door joints

Sand

Seal

 

Right now I need to find a place where I can rent/borrow a 2" hole drill bit. I looked at them at Lowe's and I'm definitely not spending $30 on a damn bit. I'm going to be drilling into the top lid. Unfortunately with this damn Eshopps overflow, I don't have enough room so I'm stuck drilling.

 

The shelves are another big part that need to be taken care of. I honestly have no idea how I'm going to do this. I may mount the reactor on the inside left panel for easy access but I have to wait and see. I'm planning on putting the RKL on the inside of the tank as well. The PC4s will be on the inside right plywood panel but I'm still not sure about the head unit. I may mount that on the inside of the door. I need to make sure that the head unit and the RW4 controller are both easy to reach since I turn them both off/standby while feeding.

 

The front doors were a bit tricky. I ended up doing two doors out of four panels with hinges in between them. The issue is that there is a good 1/2" gap between each panel. Right now I don't have a refugium set up but when I do, I'm going to need a light in there and I'm not going to want to have a bunch of light coming out through the cracks. For the middle, I think I'm going to add a thin chunk of wood that bridges the gap on the inside of the doors so it isn't visible on the outside. For the other joints, I think a simple opaque cloth will work. Staple it in on the inside and I'm good to go.

 

I did a good bit of sanding last night but I know I have a lot more to go and it sucks. I am going to pick up some dust masks at walmart in a bit because I've inhaled far too much saw dust and it's messing with me. Actually have been getting bloody boogers which are lovely... After I get done with all this damn sanding, tomorrow I think I will start staining it. have plenty of wood in order to test it out.

 

IMAG0738 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

IMAG0737 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

[VW_TDI_02]

Stand is pretty much done. Have to wait 24 hours for the polyurethane to be ready but the construction is done. Still want to add a shelf inside but I'm going to hold off on that for now since I want to see what kind of space I'll be working with when the reservoir and sump are both in there. Tomorrow I'm going to move the sump and tank over. Will also plumb the whole thing but since I have to wait 24 hours for the PVC glue, the sump and tank won't be hooked up and running until Friday.

2015-03-11_11-44-18 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr