Infinitereef Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Hi im new to this forum and i figured i would get on here and say hi to my fellow reefers. I got my tank up and running waiting for this cycle to start. My tank is the IM Nuvo8. Filtration Caddy basket Filter floss, chemipure elite, and purigen Lighting OCreef par38 full spectrum (dimmable) Aqualifter pump Jbj ATO Hydor koralia 240 Stock pump still Link to comment
cju84 Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Welcome! Nice little setup you have there. Can't wait to see how this progresses. Link to comment
Infinitereef Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 Thank you guys. Any ideas where else i could place the powerhead. Its creating that big dip in front of the tank. What works best with the other nuvo8 tanks out there. Link to comment
D Z Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Welcome! When I had an MP10 running in my nuvo 8, the only place that worked for me was on the right wall facing directly left, and I had to keep it at about 30% power. With that being said, I ended up selling it to make money to put towards other upgrades. I changed out my return pump for a MJ900 and with a spin stream, it was all the flow I needed. Link to comment
Infinitereef Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 Cchsoracle ill have to try and do that and see if it helps. Got some hefty sand dunes going on. Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Welcome and good luck! Link to comment
Jay Wee Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Sell the MP10, buy a used Jebao WP10 (set it to the lowest setting) for like $35 and use the rest of the money for corals. And welcome to NR! Link to comment
Infinitereef Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Amonia is starting to kick in .25 ppm. Looking good so far. Link to comment
Infinitereef Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 Ok would you guys take out the shrimp now since its between .25-.50ppm ammonia or keep it in there and do a pwc when it gets too high. Moved the powerhead on the right wall now so hopefully i get better flow that way. Link to comment
cju84 Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 I'd angle your PH towards the surface. As far as your shrimp... you might as well leave him and see if he lives. If you have another tank though, that'd def. be best. Link to comment
GHill762 Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 nice looking tank. mp10 is a bit overkill for this size tank, but it's a nice pump and as the sand bed matures it shouldn't blow around as much. Link to comment
Infinitereef Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 I'd angle your PH towards the surface. As far as your shrimp... you might as well leave him and see if he lives. If you have another tank though, that'd def. be best. It was shrimp to get the tank cycled and help the ammonia rise up. Its at 1.0ppm yesterday so would a PWC be needed or just wait it out? nice looking tank. mp10 is a bit overkill for this size tank, but it's a nice pump and as the sand bed matures it shouldn't blow around as much. It's a hydor nano 240. Thought about buying a mp10 but its kinda spendy. Link to comment
GHill762 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Did you have an mp10? I'm confused. Link to comment
Markburns43 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Welcome! And no the other guy had one said it was to much for his nuvo hehe Link to comment
Infinitereef Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 Welcome! And no the other guy had one said it was to much for his nuvo hehe Thanks for the clarification. I hope this thing will be cycled within another week and a half. Link to comment
seabass Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 It was shrimp to get the tank cycled and help the ammonia rise up. Its at 1.0ppm yesterday so would a PWC be needed or just wait it out?Pull that sucker out. Then wait for the ammonia to become undectable and test for nitrate and phosphate. Do a large enough water change to bring phosphate down below 0.03 ppm and nitrate below 10 ppm. If you used dry rock versus live rock, I'd also add a small bottle of DrTIM's One & Only to beef up bacteria populations before adding a small, hardy fish. However, if you used live rock, just add a small cleanup crew, wait a week, then add a small hardy fish. Link to comment
Infinitereef Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 Pull that sucker out. Then wait for the ammonia to become undectable and test for nitrate and phosphate. Do a large enough water change to bring phosphate down below 0.03 ppm and nitrate below 10 ppm. If you used dry rock versus live rock, I'd also add a small bottle of DrTIM's One & Only to beef up bacteria populations before adding a small, hardy fish. However, if you used live rock, just add a small cleanup crew, wait a week, then add a small hardy fish. I used pukani dry rock and i did a acid bath and rodi water soak for 2 days. I wont be looking for any kind of fish anytime soon. Mostly corals ill probably be looking for some fish sometime in january or February. Will bio spira work just as good or no. I have some of that but im all out of dr tims thought i had some left but apparently not. I tested phosphates and according to the test it was at 0. Ammonia was at .5 last night. So im waiting for the nitrates to spike up now. Im gonna do mostly zoas and palys. Maybe some acans and hammer heads. Link to comment
skyzpop Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Tank is looking good! The key to a new tank is be patient! Link to comment
seabass Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Being dry rock, it won't support as large of an initial bio-load. However, since you are just looking to introduce coral, it should be alright. I probably wouldn't even bother adding more bacteria. Is your phosphate test an API kit? If so, it has no way to detect levels as low as 0.03 ppm (since it's a high range kit and goes up in 0.25 ppm increments). That particular kit, while popular, is useless for determining acceptable phosphate levels for a reef tank. Don't worry about a nitrate spike, ammonia is what you need to focus on. Any nitrate under 10 ppm is acceptable. Link to comment
Infinitereef Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 Tank is looking good! The key to a new tank is be patient! Yup. Im patient enough to wait for any kind of fish. Idk what i really want yet but that will be decided when the weather warms back up. Link to comment
Infinitereef Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 Being dry rock, it won't support as large of an initial bio-load. However, since you are just looking to introduce coral, it should be alright. I probably wouldn't even bother adding more bacteria. Is your phosphate test an API kit? If so, it has no way to detect levels as low as 0.03 ppm (since it's a high range kit and goes up in 0.25 ppm increments). That particular kit, while popular, is useless for determining acceptable phosphate levels for a reef tank. Don't worry about a nitrate spike, ammonia is what you need to focus on. Any nitrate under 10 ppm is acceptable. Yes its an api kit. What other kit is there that can test in the lower levels? Link to comment
seabass Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 For a low range phosphate kit, I use a Hanna Phosphorus ULR Checker. The popular Salifert Phosphate test kit is lower resolution, but is still useful. Another is the Red Sea kit. Link to comment
Infinitereef Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 For a low range phosphate kit, I use a Hanna Phosphorus ULR Checker. The Salifert Phosphate test kit is lower resolution. Another is a Red Sea kit. Alright. Ill have to order one this weekend. I dont think any of my lfs will have any of those unless i drive out of town an hour away. Link to comment
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