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5 gallon -> Frigid 'Catalina Goby' Tank


NanoTank1

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Doh!! Oh well. Will the catalina goby show under the royal blue though? Also, could I combine this with a Home Depot par38 bulb to blend the light?

 

There aren't any temperate photosynthetic organisms so you can hang it as high as you want, you don't need any intensity.

 

 

You realize that light has only royal blue LEDs, right? You won't be able to see anything that you put into the tank since it won't reflect that blue or fluoresce.

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jedimasterben

 

Doh!! Oh well. Will the catalina goby show under the royal blue though? Also, could I combine this with a Home Depot par38 bulb to blend the light?

No, nothing that doesn't fluoresce will show up at all. Yes you can mix it with something else, but that just adds complexity and power consumption.

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Dr.Brain Coral

There aren't any temperate photosynthetic organisms

That isn't entirely true since there are photosynthetic anemones like the aggregating and giant green surf anemone which are also the best to start out with. They and allot off regular coldwater anemones will still fluoresce.

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jedimasterben

That isn't entirely true since there are photosynthetic anemones like the aggregating and giant green surf anemone which are also the best to start out with. They and allot off regular coldwater anemones will still fluoresce.

I wasn't aware that there were any temperate species of zooxanthellae (and therefore no temperature photosynthesis) but I've been known to be wrong before ;)

 

Like I said, anything that does NOT fluoresce will look as though it isn't there.

 

20140603-IMG_7028.jpg

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This could be the beginning of a trend. The problem with a coldwater tank is that you have to invest in an expensive chiller.

With the above light you can't tell if anything is in or is not in the tank. You tell everyone that visits that 'it is hiding again'. You don't have to stock the tank at all outside of a few rocks. And that chiller,... not needed. If someone gets to close to the tank, just warn them that the water is painfully cold.

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Okay, the original PAR bulb is out (for now obvious reasons). I cancelled the order. Any suggestions on a PAR bulb for a coldwater tank?

 

 

I wasn't aware that there were any temperate species of zooxanthellae (and therefore no temperature photosynthesis) but I've been known to be wrong before ;)

 

Like I said, anything that does NOT fluoresce will look as though it isn't there.

 

20140603-IMG_7028.jpg

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I just realized that dimensions matter even more for a pico coldwater tank. I ordered a 18" long by 8" wide by 8" tall tank with .5" acrylic. I had kept the tank in a box, since I'm still deciding on a chiller. I took the tank out for a bit to ooh and ahh over it. For some reason I decided to measure it.

 

What I discovered is that the outside dimensions are true at 18x8x8. Given the thick acrylic the inner dimensions are 17x7x7. Instead of a starting volume of 5 gallons, it is more like 3.6! After sand and rocks, I'll likely be working with a volume under 3 gallons.

 

On the plus side, I think I can go with the CSXC-1 chiller (a much smaller chiller). Woohooo. What do you think?

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Yeah, I'm actually pretty psyched about it. My wife already thinks I spend too much money on reef stuff. If I bring in a massive chiller it would be that much harder to explain :P

That stinks but hey smaller chiller so win win?

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Alright..I'm trying for an aesthetically clean look to the tank. I'm wondering if this would work:

 

Down two feet from tank to: inline Sicce Syncra 1.0 pump (251 GPH with a max 5' head)

then routed through: BRS Carbon Single Reactor

then to: Chill Solutions CSXC-1 chiller

Then back back to tank

 

The BRS Carbon Single Reactor is often sold with the Cobalt MJ1200 Powerhead, rated at 295 GPH. The Chill Solutions CSXC-1 chiller can be purchased with a Rio 180 pump, rated at 120 GPH.

 

My assumption is that the Sicce pump's flow of 251 GPH will roughly be cut in half as the water travels through the single reactor into the chiller. Do you think this type of a setup could work?

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Cool. I'll place the order later today. Might also pick up a lily pipe outflow from Ebay to direct the return flow. I know they are an algae trap and hard to clean, ...but can't resist trying.

 

Sounds good. I think you will still have a good amount of flow in this tank.

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Decided to have fun with my choice of budget light. I believe Veritas Controls was at MACNA in 2012. I'll give a quick review on this new 'old' technology when it arrives.

 

The light itself I believe is 12 inches but has extendable legs.

 

Veritas Controls Eclipse Color

 

As per reefbuilder.com

 

On Ebay for $79.95 (apparently this price is below cost. They don't offer a warranty but do guarantee against 'dead on arrival'.)

 

Perhaps could also make a good foundation for a DIY project...

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Thinking ahead -- quick question. In a few weeks from now I will be in Cape Cod. For my tank, from the bay I would like to gather some sand and wave-tumbled rocks. Any problems with this or things I should take into account? Also, for a coldwater reef tank is sand still advised?

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AquaticEngineer

Thinking ahead -- quick question. In a few weeks from now I will be in Cape Cod. For my tank, from the bay I would like to gather some sand and wave-tumbled rocks. Any problems with this or things I should take into account? Also, for a coldwater reef tank is sand still advised?

 

If its just for aesthetic purposes I would give it all a good freshwater rinse to clean it up a bit and you should be fine :) I have a mixed sand/rock substrate in my tank but if you are keen on keeping sand dollars I would go with as rock free a substrate as possible.

 

Make sure when you get the CXSC chiller that you specify it is for a coldwater tank that will be kept much cooler. I bought one of the first run models early on and they only had thermostats that went down to 60F in them.

 

Try and stay clear of external hang on filters like the AC50 for a coldwater tank. It will have the same temperature water going through it as the tank (55F ideally) but is made of much thinner plastics. So on a hot humid day it will be dripping water from condensation, even if your tank is not.

 

You may even consider buying some of the foam insulation tape to wrap your plumbing and reactors in as much as possible. Insulate everything you can :)

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It's a good point about insulation. Currently my tank is not sweating. The tubing from my tank to the chiller IS sweating to some degree and I thought the tubing was 'relatively' thick.

 

If its just for aesthetic purposes I would give it all a good freshwater rinse to clean it up a bit and you should be fine :) I have a mixed sand/rock substrate in my tank but if you are keen on keeping sand dollars I would go with as rock free a substrate as possible.

 

Make sure when you get the CXSC chiller that you specify it is for a coldwater tank that will be kept much cooler. I bought one of the first run models early on and they only had thermostats that went down to 60F in them.

 

Try and stay clear of external hang on filters like the AC50 for a coldwater tank. It will have the same temperature water going through it as the tank (55F ideally) but is made of much thinner plastics. So on a hot humid day it will be dripping water from condensation, even if your tank is not.

 

You may even consider buying some of the foam insulation tape to wrap your plumbing and reactors in as much as possible. Insulate everything you can :)

 

Here is the setup 'as is'. It's not complete. I will probably experiment with a canister filter today as opposed to the current setup. Will also need to insulate cording. Also feel that the pump is a tad strong. One thing that I have learned already is that a simpler setup is bound to win out.

 

Oh yeah, and I will also end up hanging the light at some point.

 

 

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