2 tanks and problems

[Guest samson]

I will try and keep this short.

 

2 tanks

 

Tank A:

 

20g, Eclipse 2 hood, no bio-wheel or carbon running, just mechancial

32 watt CSL Supernova

2 powerheads

27lbs qaulity live rock (coralline growing only on rocks, not on glass or PHs)

large feather duster

small mushroom

small polyp

10 blue hermits

6 turbo snails

6 astrea snails

blue damsel

banggai cardinal

cleaner shrimp

camel shrimp

DSB 2"

Algone packet in tank

 

bi-weekly 5 gallon water changes with DI filter, Kent Salt

 

Ammonia 0

Nitrite 0

PH 8.3

SG 1.024

Nitrate 20

Phos .5-1.0

 

Problem:

 

I can't get nitrates down, I have added 5lbs of new rock in the last 2 weeks. I keep getting diatom dust on glass, not on sand or rock, now getting bright red algae and light green algae on back wall of tank near DSB. Tanks is 6 months oldf. I can scrape it, but it comes back. I just changed DI filter, that should help. I probably over feed due to the issue of the cardinal never eating. I feed once a day every day, thinking about switching to every other day. Also using kent phyto plex 1 time per week at 1/3 recommended dosage.

 

So, why the constant battle wiht Nitrates and diatoms? how do I battle red and green algae? just keep scraping? The bed in my eclipse hood where the filter would go, could that be a probelm? There is a build up of some light colored debris in the bed.

 

 

Okay, Tank 2

 

10 gallon flat back hex

No mechanical filtration

2 small PH

13lbs live rock

1 turbo snail

1 astrea snail

2 true perculas

1 cleaner shrimp

1 large red hermit

10 small blue hermits

3" DSB

32watt CSL Supernova

good coralline growth on glass

no Algone

 

Readings:

Ammonia .25

nitrite 0

nitrate 0

ph 8.3

phos 0 (started this tank wiht new DI filter)

sg 1.024

feeding daily

 

Tank is 4 months old and i just bought it and relcoated the entire setup as is from 150 miles away to my house.

 

Problems: starting to get dark green hair like algae on back wall and on the glass. hair is about 1/8 long. I scrape it, but it comes back. When I relocated this tank I started over completed with the addition of 5lbs of LS and 90% new water. the tank is obviously cycling again, i plan on a 50% water change tonight, and the then a recheck of the readings on Saturday.

 

so, what can i do to resolve these issues?

 

P.S. I am very grateful for this site, you are a great group of folks and i am always impressed wiht your experience and knowledge. Let's have a quick round of applause for Chris Marks and this site!!

 

thanks, Sam.

[Joe]

You can build a refugium to get your nitrate down. Use lots of macro algae and it will go away fast. also you dont mention your cleanup crew. The dark red algae is definately cyannobacteria. Water changes will clean that up. Cyanno is usually caused from phosphates. The phospates are from your di membrane being old.

 

Joe

 

PS.

You can get rid of it fast if you run a UV filter for a few days. but if you dont have one water changes will do it fast. not many animals eat cyanno but as soon as the nitrates and phosphates are under control!

[Guest samson]

thanks joe,

what should be the schedule for WC on this tank with the Nitrate problem?

 

will WCs on the 10 gallon help clear up my hair algae problem?

[Satchmo]

How often do you clean the mechanical filtration pad/floss/whatever? That could certainly contribute to nitrates. I know some folks who run sponges rinse them in hot water everyday to clear the gunk in them and to keep the bacteria from building up and competing with the LR. I would do a w/c to get the nitrate down, then either pull the sponge entirely or scald it everyday and see if that has any effect.

 

As for tank 2, you only have 2 snails? I slowly built up my snail population in response to the algae growth until I found a balance. My 10g has 2 juvie turbos, 2 astreas, 2 nerites, 2 bumblebees, and a handful of strombus and limpet hitchhikers. With all these guys, I still have to clean the glass to get it crystal clear, but hair algae problems have been eliminated.

[Guest samson]

i don't use any filter or floss in the 20, but there is some build up in the bed where the filter would sit. I supposed I could scrape that out, but never tried.

 

so, maybe more snails in the 10 will help. My LFS said the 2 were enough since they will multiply. But i think i could use more in both tanks.

[spectre]

Tank 1

Nitrates and phosphates are high, changing DI filter will bring those down. Doing bi-weekly water changes you should be able to get your nitrates down to <5ppm in a week and half(based on 25% water change with 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates; 20 - 5 = 15, 15 - 5 = 10, etc). Make sure the food you use for feeding doesn't contain phosphates and try reducing the amount of food per feeding.

 

Tank 2

Tank is cycling again. Only thing you can do is let it run its course. maybe move the percs and shrimp to the 20 gal. until its done(the 2 cleaners should get along fine together). The snails and crabs should be able to ride it out. I wouldn't do a water change, this will just prolong the cycle. Hopefully, the spike won't be to bad. HTH

[Guest samson]

I was under the impression that you should do small water cahnges when the tank starts cycling. Am I wrong in thinking that?

 

I can't move the percs into the 20, i am afraid the damsel may fight with them, and i don't want to stress them toomuch sinec I just moved them 150 miles about a week or two ago.

[Joe]

Samson I would recommend weekly water changes on the 20 to get rid of the Nutrients. I would do about a 4 gallon water change a week

 

as for the 10 gallon you could do small water changes but if its a cycle then you just have to let it replenish its bacteria in which case dont do a water change untill you get rid of ammonia and Nitrite. sorry to be the one to tell ya that!

 

Joe

[Guest samson]

what ammonia level should i consider dangerous?

 

my nitrite is at 0 now. so i will test daily to see when it begins to climb.

 

I was hoping to avoid this cycle!!

[Satchmo]

If it's cycling again, it will most likely be short, as the tank was previously established. It just has to deal with whatever die-off you had from the move. As Joe said, you normally shouldn't change water during a cycle... but you've got livestock in there, so water changes would probably be a good idea to keep the spikes from getting too high. The cycle will be prolonged by changing out water, but it will still work, and your livestock will stand a better chance of making it through. Good luck, hope it all works out OK.

[gobies]

> I have added 5lbs of new rock in the last 2 weeks. I keep getting diatom dust on glass, not on sand or rock, now getting bright red algae and light green algae on back wall of tank near DSB.

 

Maybe your rock had some die-off and is doing a mini-cycle. This would contribute to the nitrates and probably the algae too.

 

> So, why the constant battle wiht Nitrates and diatoms? how do I battle red and green algae? just keep scraping?

 

Get the phosphates down. The filter bed in the Eclipse hood would be a perfect place for some PhosGuard in a filter bag. BTW, the junior-sized Whisper bio-bags fit perfectly in the Eclipse filter bed. Hang one of the tabs on the filter frame over the end of the filter bed near the biowheel, and that makes sure all the water goes through the bio-bag.

 

Hmmm. What are you using for mechanical filtration in the Eclipse hood? That might be a nitrate source, too.

 

Also, you may have dead spots with only two powerheads and the Eclipse outflow. Aim one of the powerheads in the general direction of the spots with algae on the glass (erm, after you've done another scrape job) and see what happens.

[Guest samson]

I figured the 5lbs of rock had some die off, and with WCs, eventually it would lower to a reasonable level.

 

I using the Eclipse filter that came wiht the hood, built in-200gph, I have the bio-wheel removed and no filter pad or carbon. that area is a good place to put Phos-Guard. I use ALGONE, it seems to help, but nothing drastically noticeable. I know for sure that my DI filter was spent.

 

you think there may be organic build in the strainer or intake tube causing the nitrate issue?

 

I try and run carbon every month for 48 hours and then remove the filter altogether. You get some many different schools of thought, it's hard to say what works and doesn't work. Hmm...doens't seem to work for me huh?

 

I have considered a small Mini-Jet 404 to help move the dead spots in the back of the tank.

 

I changed out 4 gallons in the 20 late last night and 1 gallon in the ten to give the Percs some relief.

[reefskunk]

Cyanobacteria happened to me in my early days because i was using dechlorinated tap water as my top off. BIG MISTAKE! If your tank is small, go get RO water from the LFS or change your membrane. Do a change as often as possible (every week?) and eventually you'll see it go away. you can try phos-guard in your filter, but dont rely on it. Try chemipure instead of the eclipse filter. It worked for me.

 

If you dont do anything, your whole tank will sucumb to the wrath of the cyano king.

 

have fun with the reefer, uh, i mean, reefing

 

-a

[Guest samson]

So Chemi-Pure worked well for you?

 

I cleaned out the bed of the Eclipse filter, it was lined with waste. I think that might have been a big factor in my Nitrate issue. I have already noticed a slight drop in the readings. I will keep changing out the water.

 

Thanks.

 

sam