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Oversize Rimless Stand


Archaic37

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I want to build an oversized stand for a 70 rimless (48"x 18"x17") and use a 40B as the sump (36"x18"x16"). The design is below, only question I have is what size plywood or particle board should the top panel which the tank rests on be?

 

BHJT5k8.jpg

3 supports front to back will be placed on the edge of where the aquarium will sit for both the 70 and 40. There will be 1/4" plywood under the 40 also.

dEVmuGc.jpg

The 70 will rest on the rear horizontal 2x4 and 3 front to back 2x4's underneath the top sheet of plywood.

ucPPDr4.jpg

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masterbuilder

Might pick something other than ply or particle for the top. Places like Lowes have joined pine/oak/maple tops in any size you want. They are not very expensive and sure look much nicer if you plan to stain. If it were mine I would have the top overhang about an inch on the front and sides. The sides can be ply if you choose. Particle board is not a good choice for water prone applications

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Yea I was just looking and the stain ready aspen seemed the nicest. They have it 1" x 18" x 72" for $29 locally.

 

Edit: just saw you need 22". I didn't see anything that wide.

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frame out the footprint of the tank with 2x4's under 1/2 inch plywood top. where the frame of the footprint connects to the actual structure of the stand use joist hangers to ensure there is no sag when the tank is on the stand.

 

There is a sketch up somewhere in the first 10 pages of one of the rocketengineer threads in which this is done on a big tank. I currently have the same type stand done for my 50.

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Might pick something other than ply or particle for the top. Places like Lowes have joined pine/oak/maple tops in any size you want. They are not very expensive and sure look much nicer if you plan to stain. If it were mine I would have the top overhang about an inch on the front and sides. The sides can be ply if you choose. Particle board is not a good choice for water prone applications

I was planning on painting the entire thing white and then having the 2 front doors and 1 side door stained.

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I was planning on painting the entire thing white and then having the 2 front doors and 1 side door stained.

 

Sherwin williams pre cat epoxy paint is pretty awesome white paint.

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frame out the footprint of the tank with 2x4's under 1/2 inch plywood top. where the frame of the footprint connects to the actual structure of the stand use joist hangers to ensure there is no sag when the tank is on the stand.

 

There is a sketch up somewhere in the first 10 pages of one of the rocketengineer threads in which this is done on a big tank. I currently have the same type stand done for my 50.

So basically rotate the 3 2x4's 90 degrees that I currently have running front to back. I am able to frame 3 out of the 4 sides of the tank. Unless I removed the middle 2x4 and ran another 2x4 horizontally at the front edge of where the tank sits, thats the only way I could frame all 4 sides.

 

 

I'm pretty much basing my design off of your tank by the way.

 

Removed the plywood for a better view of the supports. Then just joist hanger those 3 pieces correct?

 

FXJev8W.jpg

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So basically rotate the 3 2x4's 90 degrees that I currently have running front to back. I am able to frame 3 out of the 4 sides of the tank. Unless I removed the middle 2x4 and ran another 2x4 horizontally at the front edge of where the tank sits, thats the only way I could frame all 4 sides.

 

 

I'm pretty much basing my design off of your tank by the way.

 

heres the img of the top bracing.

 

148629stand_top.jpg

 

could put a 3rd yellow in there in the middle if you wanted since you are doing a 48 inch long tank. There are 6 joist hangers in this frame 2 where the yellows meet the orange 2 where the yellow meets the red and 2 where the inner red meets the greens.

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I would add more cross braces. My 27 sits on a 3/4" birch ply top with 2 intermediate supports on a 42" span ~14" spacing. After a few weeks, I put my level across the stand and have a little less than 1/16" of sag in the top. I have foam under the tank and I'm not concerned about it, but with a tank of your size, I would recommend a little over building here, and I am one who tends to value engineer under most circumstances. You can see the bracing on my stand in the photo below. I also have a center support that is not shown.

http://s554.photobucket.com/user/rk_tek/media/1108A3D4-007C-4063-8808-E3DAFAB5AC91.jpg.html'>1108A3D4-007C-4063-8808-E3DAFAB5AC91.jpg

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I would add more cross braces. My 27 sits on a 3/4" birch ply top with 2 intermediate supports on a 42" span ~14" spacing. After a few weeks, I put my level across the stand and have a little less than 1/16" of sag in the top. I have foam under the tank and I'm not concerned about it, but with a tank of your size, I would recommend a little over building here, and I am one who tends to value engineer under most circumstances. You can see the bracing on my stand in the photo below. I also have a center support that is not shown.

1108A3D4-007C-4063-8808-E3DAFAB5AC91.jpg

 

Especially since it is a rimless I will have to make sure this stand is extremely level and then use a yoga mat to put under it.

heres the img of the top bracing.

 

148629stand_top.jpg

 

could put a 3rd yellow in there in the middle if you wanted since you are doing a 48 inch long tank. There are 6 joist hangers in this frame 2 where the yellows meet the orange 2 where the yellow meets the red and 2 where the inner red meets the greens.

 

Ah that makes sense. I changed my design to reflect that. Now I just have to figure out how I want the doors to hang.

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Especially since it is a rimless I will have to make sure this stand is extremely level and then use a yoga mat to put under it.

 

Ah that makes sense. I changed my design to reflect that. Now I just have to figure out how I want the doors to hang.

 

Hang or hinged? A fair bit of warning is if you want them fully inset its going to take some serious wood working skill to get your doors to be within 1/32 of an inch with a perfectly square opening. I was going to do this realized how obnoxious it was and took the easy way out with full overlay.

 

Sliding doors would be sweet I would've if I had the horizontal space woulda hit my couch. They also make hanging metal brackets called french cleat hangers. You could just lift the door and take it off with one of those.

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Especially since it is a rimless I will have to make sure this stand is extremely level and then use a yoga mat to put under it

 

I got 1/4" self adhesive neoprene online; very dense and will accommodate imperfections well.

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Hang or hinged? A fair bit of warning is if you want them fully inset its going to take some serious wood working skill to get your doors to be within 1/32 of an inch with a perfectly square opening. I was going to do this realized how obnoxious it was and took the easy way out with full overlay.

 

Sliding doors would be sweet I would've if I had the horizontal space woulda hit my couch. They also make hanging metal brackets called french cleat hangers. You could just lift the door and take it off with one of those.

I've always liked the sliding doors on stands, but you have to have the space on either side. I am putting a fish in my sump(my gf's damsel) and to be able to see it, I needed a door to be open but without intruding into the space, so I have one sliding door and one hinged.

 

880C0E0C-9589-43AA-B3F8-063DB82C5F9D.jpg

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Hang or hinged? A fair bit of warning is if you want them fully inset its going to take some serious wood working skill to get your doors to be within 1/32 of an inch with a perfectly square opening. I was going to do this realized how obnoxious it was and took the easy way out with full overlay.

 

Sliding doors would be sweet I would've if I had the horizontal space woulda hit my couch. They also make hanging metal brackets called french cleat hangers. You could just lift the door and take it off with one of those.

it will be hinged I will most likely use cabinet style hinges

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I used two layers of 3/4" oak plywood under only 20 gallons. A little trim and what you used becomes invisible.

:)

 

I like bondo if its getting painted heh, bondo 20 mins then sanding and painting = seem was never there. Also theres that iron on wood edging that looks pretty good. My cabinet doors are actually plywood with that stuff. Iron it on cut off the excess.

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My point was under a 70G he should use something much sturdier than plywood or particle board. :)

 

And cross-members.

I would say 2x4s are acceptable up to 120G. Anything larger it should be steel or 4x4s with some 2x4s

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Oh, yeah. 2X4s should be fine, just not particle board or even typical plywood.

 

Can you imagine particle board giving way under more than 600 pounds of water, rock and glass?

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I would say 2x4s are acceptable up to 120G. Anything larger it should be steel or 4x4s with some 2x4s

You would be surprised how strong you can make a wood stand. If you use 2x6's or 2x8's for example the weight it holds becomes huge and thats with a single expanse with no vertical center brace blocking getting a sump under it. I saw the numbers somewhere and was thinking man I could hold up my car with one.

 

My point was under a 70G he should use something much sturdier than plywood or particle board. :)

 

And cross-members.

Oh, Yeh an oversized stand without the tank supported by cross members and the tank just resting on the surface would be a disaster. If braced correctly (specifically the sketch up above) it will hold a very large tank without issue with just 1/2 inch ply over the 2x4's.

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