The not-so-nano evil cluster build

[milfordguy]

The fan isn't mounted to the heat sink. The bolts are resting in the grooves the heatsink. The bolt holes of the fan make it a decently snug fit and it doesn't slide around. Rubber feet will be added to prevent galvanic corruption and possible vibration issues.

How about attaching the PWM wires to your arduino?

[jedimasterben]

The specific LED I am thinking about is LXM2-PL01 - Rebel Luxeon PC-Amber. It has luminous efficiencies similar to other Rebels. Maybe you're thinking of the LXML-PL01 which definitely are dogs? This is still an optional aspect of the build but I am reserving space for it (or some other narrow spectrum). I am heeding your warning. Definitely not in a position to debate.

Ah, they do have higher efficacy now - but again, the 4000K 80CRI Vero is putting out ample light in that same spectrum. I know that adding amber LEDs won't use a lot of power, but it would still be considered wasted power since there won't be any benefit to it, you're already providing that light to be reflected. Light is additive, not subtractive, so the non-fluorescent reflection of the light won't change if there is a lot of other spectrum present. Think of it like the halides you mentioned - they have a wider spectrum than any LED fixture is capable of (heading into UV-B and IR) at this point, yet those coral colors that reflect amber are capable of doing so.

 

http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/DS33-Bridgelux-Vero-29-Datasheet-2013.07.18.pdf Page 17 has the spectral output of the chips, showing Bridgelux's awesome phosphor

 

One of the main reasons for adding 470nm, 500nm, 530nm, 590nm, 630nm, 660nm to the 'standard' blue/white arrays was to get better color. But eventually, people figured out that the low-CRI diodes they were using were the cause, and swapping to higher-CRI warm diodes was the fix, and really the only spectrum missing is under 450nm and between 450nm and 500nm.

 

Now, though, most people think that they need to add all of those to get better color, which is why companies like Ecotech and AI are putting insane amounts of different colored diodes instead of keeping it simple, in addition to boosting sales since people just don't know any better (hey, our fixture has 9 colors, theirs only has five, so ours is better!). If only the people knew that all it takes is a few diodes to do everything they want

[bfliflet]

Thanks Ben. You're arguing the same way I was arguing back against the pro-amber local reefers. One benefit of specific channels versus a single full spectrum diode is control. If I was looking to provide more 'pop' or more actinic phosphorescent 'green', I won't get as good of results by increasing the Vero even though it's adding the necessary spectrum. However, if I add more RB or HV, the 'green' improves drastically at the cost of little more blue or purple look to the tank. The same analogy works for amber. The question is: is it worth it? Your argument and mine is most likely not. Adding that 590 only helps the few creatures that contain that emissive protein. Another factor is cost. The only place that has that LED in a 3up sells them for 22$ a pop which is ~$90 in my setup. :-(

 

How about attaching the PWM wires to your arduino?

I haven't focused on that yet (as you can see by the wire mess in the photos) because I am busy with the panels. My plan is to use Arduino jumper wires connected to a 8-12 signal terminal block with 4 signal wires (most likely DB15 serial cables) connecting to a molex 12pin connector you see on the back of the acrylic panel housing. My original plan was going to put the Arduino on a panel but given the height it was difficult to control the touch screen...

[You_Wrasse_is_Mine]

Nice job on your build. Very clean and professional.

[milfordguy]

Hows it going man, what's new?