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What kind of freshwater topoff system do you use for your nano??


GobyMan

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I'm looking to add an automatic topoff system to my 5 1/2 for when I am away for 10 days in October. I was just wondering what everyone else uses.

 

Thanks!

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I finally bought a small pump and a float switch for when I go away but I never set it up. I haven't gone away for more than two days since my trip to St. Barths. Somehow, when I went away then I had very little evaporation. Alas, I did lose my anthelia polyps but nothing else.

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I'm going to look into a pump and float switch. I'm also thinking of lowering my photoperiod when I am gone in an attempt to reduce evap.

 

I was thinking about alk/calcium levels too. I am adding 5 ml per day of b-ionic to MAINTAIN my levels. I was wondering if my corals would be ok without my daily additions during the period I am gone. I guess I can just use Kalk as the makeup water but I have never used it before and am a little apprehensive.

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i'd go with the b-ionic premix before kalk due to the extreme pH of the kalk.

 

10 days is a looong time, you should defnitely go with some kind of auto top-off or tank maintenance service. how much could they charge for a nano?

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We charge $85 per service regardless of size. For just watching a tank for 10 days I think we would charge around $50 per week so about $75 for 10 days.

Get a bucket, drill a hole in it at the bottom put an airline and a needle valve on it and set it to a VERY slow drip. place this bucket next to the tank on an elevated surface. Should be fine, and save you some dough during your vacation.

HTH,

Toy

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DMJ,

I was under the impression this was for a 10 day vacation. if you aren't home who cares waht the tank looks like while on vacation?

Toy

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I too am using the grainger float switch, but I'm using a tetra deep water air pump and a kent salt bucket. Just drill 2 holes slightly smaller than air tubing in the lid of the bucket. Push 1 piece of tubing with a weight on the end through the hole in the lid (should be hard to do) all the way to the bottom of the bucket. Put the other end above your tank (mine feeds into my skimmer to mix the fresh water with the salt before it hits the tank). Push a second piece of tubing through the lid but only about an inch down. Attach this one through a check valve to your air pump. Fill the bucket and snap the lid on (the kent salt buckets have a rubber gasket in them and they snap on really tight). When the float switch drops, it turns on the air pump. It pressurizes the air in the bucket and forces the water up the tube from the bottom. After about 10 seconds it begins to trickle water out of the tube. If the bucket is on level or slightly below it should work fine. Most air pumps can do about 18-24 inches before they stall out so you wont be able to put the bucket too far below the tank.

 

The biggest advantage of this setup over the powerhead rigs previously mentioned is that you can pump kalk without grinding your powerheads apart with the precipitate. There are no moving parts ever in contact with the topoff water. If you want to use kalk (I don't, but might) , you might lift the pickup tube a couple inches off the bottom so you get good kalk water without all the precipitate that settles out.

 

If the lowest part of your topoff system must be more than a couple feet below the top of your tank or refugium (whichever is lower) then you should use the powerhead system as they can usually pump water with much greater head.

 

I whole-heartedly recommend a top off system. For 15 bucks I got the switch, I had the pump, and the bucket was $1.50 at my lfs (sold for hauling ro water). It has been up for 3 weeks and my water parameter have suddenly gone ultra-stable. My macro and coralline algae have doubled their growth rates and my false perc looks much healthier. I also see TONS more little pods and such in the tank. Even the little sand sifting stars. My tank was in a slow decline for the 5 months I've had it and the top-off solved major problems. I believe the salinity swings were the major cause.

 

 

Sorry for the long post, hope it helps.

 

Bryan.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok.....I juts figured I'd post this for those who are interested. I've got my fused float switches available and they have been well tested and doing well. Dave is getting one for his tank to goof around with and give me some feedback on but otherwise they are ready.

 

Basically, the new fused setup isn't really protection for the pump BUT more for your fish and yourself. In case of any short or pump explosions (like we all know LARGE rio's can do) the fuse will blow and break the circuit.

 

The reason for the fuse not pretecting the pump, for those who are wondering, is this....

 

Most powerhead pumps we use in our tanks are inductive type motors which HATE to stop. What I mean by "hate" is that the current flow doesn't like to be cut so a large current spike occurs at the shutoff point which is a minimum of 2x the running current. If I ran a fuse close to the switches rating (.3 amps/~28w) the larger spike would prematurely wear the fuse....wouldn't be reliable or long lasting. The fuse is a 1 amp fuse and will be large enough to avoid real premature wearing issues but will readily blow if something bad happns.:o

 

This fuse will save the switch from blowing out, you fish from shock, and you if you happen to go diving.

 

I needed an additional safety feature just in case even though I've never had a problem like this before. You just never know. This will not effect pricing.

 

Any ?'s lemme know :D

 

Cameron

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printerdown01

Is heat a prob with your tank?? If not, it might be cheaper to just put a glass cover over the thing to stop evaporation... Leave a small hole, but nothing major!! -just another option...

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