HELP Algae ;(

[claval01]

Can you offer some advice regarding the algae issue I seem to be having? My tank is exactly one month old I transferred my live rock and livestock from my old tank to this NUVO 16. I used Nutriwater for "instant cycle". I think at first I overfed but dont think that it would cause this much bloom. Note that I installed the IM Protein Skimmer about 2-3 weeks ago. I have chemipure and purigen in one chamber. My NO3's at like 6ppm maybe less since I did a 2 gallon change yesterday and havent tested yet. Any advise on how to rid the tank of this. (assuming its a little cyno and green hair algae)

[albertthiel]

Can you offer some advice regarding the algae issue I seem to be having? My tank is exactly one month old I transferred my live rock and livestock from my old tank to this NUVO 16. I used Nutriwater for "instant cycle". I think at first I overfed but dont think that it would cause this much bloom. Note that I installed the IM Protein Skimmer about 2-3 weeks ago. I have chemipure and purigen in one chamber. My NO3's at like 6ppm maybe less since I did a 2 gallon change yesterday and havent tested yet. Any advise on how to rid the tank of this. (assuming its a little cyno and green hair algae)

 

Looks like both indeed ... when you transferred etc .. did you clean the rock by blowing it off before moving it ... not sure but a possibility is that the rock you moved had phosphate deposited on it and that went into solution and algae feed on that more so than on NO3 in fact (although they use that too) ...

 

What are your current phosphate levels ?

[claval01]

Looks like both indeed ... when you transferred etc .. did you clean the rock by blowing it off before moving it ... not sure but a possibility is that the rock you moved had phosphate deposited on it and that went into solution and algae feed on that more so than on NO3 in fact (although they use that too) ...

 

What are your current phosphate levels ?

I did scrub it a bit in a bucket... this rock was in my original tank that I had up for about one year. I started with tap water for the first few weeks then used live water from then on so the tap was long gone but I guess its possible that there was some still on it...lol I mean one whole year of being in live water.. I had a break out of cyno that went away after I turned the lights off and it never came back. I can't turn the lights off on this because I have coral now lol. I haven't tested my phosphates yet as I don't have a test.I will take it to get tested tomorrow. Will High Phosphates hurt my coral, they seem fine?

[claval01]

Might I add that its only in a few areas... like the green hair algae is spotty and the cyno is just a thin covering basically under the lights.. I live in a loft and there is a ton of natural light so that might play a role as well? BTW just tested my Nitrates and they are at 8ppm

[albertthiel]

Might I add that its only in a few areas... like the green hair algae is spotty and the cyno is just a thin covering basically under the lights.. I live in a loft and there is a ton of natural light so that might play a role as well? BTW just tested my Nitrates and they are at 8ppm

 

From the pics it seemed that it was growing in quite a few areas though and that you had red slime algae as well ..

 

You can try successive water changes and see if that helps but for the hair algae you may need to scrub the rocks if you can and add some CUC's ... do you have any in the tank right now and which ones if I may ask ...

 

The Cyanos are not easy to get rid off especially if they are appearing in addl areas ... you can siphon out what you see and watch whether they come back the next day .. if they do you may need to treat the tank differently e.g. with ChemiClean from Boyd ..

 

FWIW

[Sailfish]

I agree with Albert T. Lower your nitrates with water changes and check your phosphate levels. That should starve out the algea and limit the cyano. Increased flow in the tank will also limit the possibility for the cyano bacteria to form layers on the sandbed.

 

I read an article in Coral Magazine that cyano is thriving specially good when there is available phosphates. That is why many people experience a cyano outbreak after depleting nitrates to not measureable levels, using carbon dosing (vodka, biopellets, sugar etc.). The algea that consume nitrates dies out, leaving the arena to the cyano bacteria, which is very happy to thrive on the phosphates left in the system.

[claval01]

From the pics it seemed that it was growing in quite a few areas though and that you had red slime algae as well ..

 

You can try successive water changes and see if that helps but for the hair algae you may need to scrub the rocks if you can and add some CUC's ... do you have any in the tank right now and which ones if I may ask ...

 

The Cyanos are not easy to get rid off especially if they are appearing in addl areas ... you can siphon out what you see and watch whether they come back the next day .. if they do you may need to treat the tank differently e.g. with ChemiClean from Boyd ..

 

FWIW

Yea I can use a turkey baster and blow it off the sand, its not too bad just a thin dusting and has been that way for about 2 weeks ish. The green hair is mostly on the solo rock with my pulsing xania on it lol. I think a lot has to do with the natural light that comes in my place .. Anyway, I have probably 6 hermits and 4 snails left, a emerald and skunk shrimp.

[albertthiel]

I agree with Albert T. Lower your nitrates with water changes and check your phosphate levels. That should starve out the algea and limit the cyano. Increased flow in the tank will also limit the possibility for the cyano bacteria to form layers on the sandbed.

 

I read an article in Coral Magazine that cyano is thriving specially good when there is available phosphates. That is why many people experience a cyano outbreak after depleting nitrates to not measureable levels, using carbon dosing (vodka, biopellets, sugar etc.). The algea that consume nitrates dies out, leaving the arena to the cyano bacteria, which is very happy to thrive on the phosphates left in the system.

 

+ 1

[zemuss]

What do you mean by Live Water?

 

I suspect that the nitrate readings are low because the algae is consuming the other nitrates / phosphates in the tank.

 

What does your clean up crew consist of?

 

What is your current Fish / Bio Level?

 

What are the other parameters?

 

Has anything else changed?

 

Have you seen a negative affect on corals etc because of the move?

 

"Z"

[claval01]

What do you mean by Live Water?

 

I suspect that the nitrate readings are low because the algae is consuming the other nitrates / phosphates in the tank.

 

What does your clean up crew consist of?

 

What is your current Fish / Bio Level?

 

What are the other parameters?

 

Has anything else changed?

 

Have you seen a negative affect on corals etc because of the move?

 

"Z"

I used NutriWater for the past year for my changes and thats what I filled my New set up with. Basiclly the only tap that I have EVER used was when I filled up my original tank 1 year ago, which had my rock in it. But that was changed out quickly to NutriWater.

Cleanup... about 6 hermits, 4 snails, one Emerald Crab, and a Skunk Shrimp.

Fish BioLoad... two Clowns

I can only really check for Nitrate, I have to order the rest of the testers today thinkin Red Sea reef foundation and Hanna checker for Phosphate.

I didnt have corals in my old tank just this new setup and they seem to growing, my Xenia is doing really really well.

[claval01]

I'm pretty sure its all my fault the side of the tank that has the most green hair and cyno is where I was feeding a lot because. Im kinda new to this so I just need to chill out on the feeding. will they eventually use up there waste and go away? (Cyno and Green hair)

[fretfreak13]

Really if this is just "spotty" algae, a decent CUC will knock this out in an hour. People are going to say "oh, thats just a bandaid to the actual problem" yadda yadda, and I agree if this tank was OVERFLOWING with algae. I also garuntee those same people have some kind of CUC to help them too.

 

Relax. Your tank looks fine, its just going through the new stages. You say you have 4 snails? What kind? Turbos will mow down hair algae faster than anything I've ever seen! For your tank, get only two and place them directly on the problem rock. It'll be clean in just hours. As well, check into a cleaner package from reefcleaners. They're very cheap (like under 20 bucks for your size tank) and ship for free.

[Acielot]

Really if this is just "spotty" algae, a decent CUC will knock this out in an hour. People are going to say "oh, thats just a bandaid to the actual problem" yadda yadda, and I agree if this tank was OVERFLOWING with algae. I also garuntee those same people have some kind of CUC to help them too.

+1000

 

Most patches of algae will be knocked out by a CUC in no time. However I have found that if your CUC doesn't frequent the area that the algae does then you might have to take the issue into your own hands or tweezers.

[fretfreak13]

Haha I just pick up my snails and put them where I need them to chow down.

[claval01]

Really if this is just "spotty" algae, a decent CUC will knock this out in an hour. People are going to say "oh, thats just a bandaid to the actual problem" yadda yadda, and I agree if this tank was OVERFLOWING with algae. I also garuntee those same people have some kind of CUC to help them too.

 

Relax. Your tank looks fine, its just going through the new stages. You say you have 4 snails? What kind? Turbos will mow down hair algae faster than anything I've ever seen! For your tank, get only two and place them directly on the problem rock. It'll be clean in just hours. As well, check into a cleaner package from reefcleaners. They're very cheap (like under 20 bucks for your size tank) and ship for free.

Yea I have like a few Margarita snails. I think Ill go pick up a few turbos after work tonight

[markalot]

I used NutriWater for the past year for my changes and thats what I filled my New set up with. Basiclly the only tap that I have EVER used was when I filled up my original tank 1 year ago, which had my rock in it. But that was changed out quickly to NutriWater.

Cleanup... about 6 hermits, 4 snails, one Emerald Crab, and a Skunk Shrimp.

Fish BioLoad... two Clowns

I can only really check for Nitrate, I have to order the rest of the testers today thinkin Red Sea reef foundation and Hanna checker for Phosphate.

I didnt have corals in my old tank just this new setup and they seem to growing, my Xenia is doing really really well.

 

http://www.nutriseawater.com/

 

Fortified with QX-23® Enriched Solution

 

Hmmm.

[Sailfish]

http://www.nutriseawater.com/

 

Fortified with QX-23® Enriched Solution

 

Hmmm.

How much does this premixed saltwater cost?

Sounds like snakeoil to me....

[claval01]

How much does this premixed saltwater cost?

Sounds like snakeoil to me....

I think its like 15 bucks for 4.4 gallons. I just use it as a base. Going forward I will be using LFS pre made Reef saltwater... at like 50cents or 1 buck a gallon. Makes sense since I live in a small place and have a small tank, dont have room for a garbage bin to house salt water, heater and pump.

[Sailfish]

I think its like 15 bucks for 4.4 gallons. I just use it as a base. Going forward I will be using LFS pre made Reef saltwater... at like 50cents or 1 buck a gallon. Makes sense since I live in a small place and have a small tank, dont have room for a garbage bin to house salt water, heater and pump.

$15 for 4.4 gallons?! That is crazy expensive!

 

LFS saltwater is more reasonable priced, but be aware that many people, including myself, report that when you test the LFS RO/DI water you find that the TDS is way to high. This is the same RO/DI water that they use to mix their saltwater.

 

The reason for the high TDS is because most LFSs don't want to change RO/DI cartridges before they absolutely HAVE TO. Unfortunately, it seems that for most LFSs, the point where they HAVE TO change cartridges, is when enough customers have complained about high TDS or increased growth of nuisanse algea, after using their water.

 

Also, it can be assumed that the LFS uses the cheapest salt available, for their premixed saltwater. This is usually a smaller problem for fish-only tanks, because the problem with many cheap reef salts is that they contain low and/or variable amounts of minerals and ions (Ca, Mg, Alk). These compunds are much more important for corals, clams etc, than fish.

 

Most reef salts on the market today contain no/low amounts of phosphates, nitrates, heavy metals etc, so that is not a big concern when comparing cheap vs. expensive reef salt.

 

If you don't want to purchase a good RO/DI unit yet, I would suggest that you buy LFS RO/DI water, or even better distilled water from e.g. wall mart, and mix your own saltwater. Then you are at least free to choose your own salt. Remember to check every new batch of LFS RO/DI water or distilled water, with a TDS meter. You can get a TDS pen on eBay for $10.

 

You don't have to mix your saltwater in a garbage bin. You can do as I did, when I stayed at my university dorm. Mix the new saltwater in a bucket, the day before the water change.

[claval01]

$15 for 4.4 gallons?! That is crazy expensive!

 

LFS saltwater is more reasonable priced, but be aware that many people, including myself, report that when you test the LFS RO/DI water you find that the TDS is way to high. This is the same RO/DI water that they use to mix their saltwater.

 

The reason for the high TDS is because most LFSs don't want to change RO/DI cartridges before they absolutely HAVE TO. Unfortunately, it seems that for most LFSs, the point where they HAVE TO change cartridges, is when enough customers have complained about high TDS or increased growth of nuisanse algea, after using their water.

 

Also, it can be assumed that the LFS uses the cheapest salt available, for their premixed saltwater. This is usually a smaller problem for fish-only tanks, because the problem with many cheap reef salts is that they contain low and/or variable amounts of minerals and ions (Ca, Mg, Alk). These compunds are much more important for corals, clams etc, than fish.

 

Most reef salts on the market today contain no/low amounts of phosphates, nitrates, heavy metals etc, so that is not a big concern when comparing cheap vs. expensive reef salt.

 

If you don't want to purchase a good RO/DI unit yet, I would suggest that you buy LFS RO/DI water, or even better distilled water from e.g. wall mart, and mix your own saltwater. Then you are at least free to choose your own salt. Remember to check every new batch of LFS RO/DI water or distilled water, with a TDS meter. You can get a TDS pen on eBay for $10.

 

You don't have to mix your saltwater in a garbage bin. You can do as I did, when I stayed at my university dorm. Mix the new saltwater in a bucket, the day before the water change.

Thanks for the info! I might just do that...I do get RO/DI from the LFS..(I use a 4.4 bucket that was nutriwater) I do have a 5 gallon bucket.. If I make mix a 5 gallon bucket and use a heater and pump how long can I keep the saltwater around before it goes bad? I can also get a 10 gallon tank from the LFS and make my water in that and let it be... will that work?

[fretfreak13]

You can keep it for a long time, but make sure its sealed. If you leave the bucket open water will evaporate and the salinity in the bucket will go up.

 

I use the deep blue water containers for my saltwater. Much better because they seal tight. http://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Supplies-Gallon-Water-Screw/dp/B008CA9E5C'>Here they are on amazon.

[Sailfish]

Thanks for the info! I might just do that...I do get RO/DI from the LFS..(I use a 4.4 bucket that was nutriwater) I do have a 5 gallon bucket.. If I make mix a 5 gallon bucket and use a heater and pump how long can I keep the saltwater around before it goes bad? I can also get a 10 gallon tank from the LFS and make my water in that and let it be... will that work?

No problem, happy to help

As fretfreak13 says, you can keep it for a long time. That is, as long as you have some kind of circulation going, in the bucket. I agree that a tight seal will help with evaporation, but it really isn't a big problem anyway. You should always check the salinity of both the new saltwater and the tank water, before doing a WC. If you notice an increase in salinity in the new saltwater, simply add some RO/DI water and let it mix for a couple of minutes and then measure again

[Disher]

How often are you feeding your fish? If you are feeding everyday try and cut that back to every other day. What's your salinity? I noticed in my tanks that when my salinity crept higher and higher cyano would soon follow...just something to think about! How's the tank looking now?