polyps222 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 I dont know what it is but I can get rid of it. Some looks like green hair algae and the ones coming from the red hornets look more like a plant but it is seriously all over tank. It hasn't killed anything but it bothers me that it is in between the red hornets and in between some of my other corals. I have bought a bunch of hermit crabs and they haven't done anything. Any suggestions? It is kind of hard to see in the pictures but it the algae is green. It grows long and I usually just rip it off but it keeps grown back. Thanks :rollface: Link to comment
Mstefa1 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Can't see to ID. Can you take pics with your blues off? Link to comment
polyps222 Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 I was told that it is bryopsis Link to comment
xerophyte_nyc Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Sounds like Bryopsis, need better photos Link to comment
Mstefa1 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Which is what I also thought but was waiting for better pics. Good luck if it is bryopsis. I have some myself. Link to comment
polyps222 Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Yeah so how do I get rid of it. It is bryopsis 100% I just saw pictures of it online and it looks exactly the same. Link to comment
malady Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 i been using hydrogen peroxide however a little has been coming back Link to comment
Mstefa1 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Yeah so how do I get rid of it. It is bryopsis 100% I just saw pictures of it online and it looks exactly the same. I'll let you know if I ever succeed. i been using hydrogen peroxide however a little has been coming back Full strength direct treatment of peroxide outside of the tank doesn't have the effect as it returns in a week so I won't dose peroxide directly into my tank. Kent Tech M magnesium is the only thing that I've seen outside of manual removal that has had any affect. Need to be 1900 or so. Raise about 100/day. 1 Link to comment
Brooklynkidd718 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 I would look into buying a sea urchin, they are great alge eater 1 Link to comment
seabass Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 The thing about the Kent Tech M treatment is that nobody knows why it works, it just does. Suppossedly, other magnesium supplements don't work the same. The thought is that another ingredient in it is actually doing the work. If that's true, discontinuing use of carbon or other chemical media that could remove meds would be recommended during treatment. Nutrient reduction alone doesn't seem to get rid of it, but I would still recommend keeping phosphate at or below 0.03ppm, and nitrate under 10 ppm. You need a good low range phosphate test kit for levels this low. The combination of your PAR38 bulb and camera makes the pics too hard to see. Try a flash, and/or turn off the tank lights. If you are using an actual camera, there may be a white balance setting or even an aquarium mode. 1 Link to comment
polyps222 Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Here are some better pictures I was able to take with the lights off. So I should use kent tech M? Is there any special way I should use it. The tank is only 8 gallons and I do weekly water changes. This outbreak started from a frag that I bought. Link to comment
SCreefer Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 I've read a little about using a raised mag level for this. I have never had to do it, but I have read a little about this because I've seen a tank get shut down from bryopsis and I don't want to go through that myself. From what I've read it said raise the mag slowly, but then keep it up for a long time. I've read some people take 3-5 months to really kill it all off, but as far as I understand it does work if you wait long enough. 1 Link to comment
brandon429 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 yep that works. of all the methods posted online about how to cure that, its really just best to pick one and run the whole thing and post back after shots as all one post at least you are taking action before the whole tank is wiped out by it 1 Link to comment
malady Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Kent Tech M magnesium is the only thing that I've seen outside of manual removal that has had any affect. Need to be 1900 or so. Raise about 100/day. I have also been trying that I been steady at 1600-1700 afraid for my snails but i'll let you know how it goes Link to comment
Rickinferno Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Try getting an Emrald Crab, they do wonders on algea! 1 Link to comment
Mstefa1 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 I have also been trying that I been steady at 1600-1700 afraid for my snails but i'll let you know how it goes I'm over 2k now and I've caught my only turbo on his back once or twice but I flipped him over and keeps on ticking. He may be drunk though. What test kit are you using? I'm using Salifert and although you can refill the syringe and keep going I question it's accuracy over 1500. When I do my water change tomorrow I'm going to manually remove the bryopsis as I normally do. Usually between tech m & manual removal I can get it down to the point you almost can't see it but then it pops back up. Link to comment
Subsea Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Because we have our tanks to grow what looks good in our eyes, we almost always add nutrients faser than they can be processed. With large systems, I employ multiple nutrient pathways. Growing biomass; like corals, fish and macro has allways worked for me. When you do nutrient export, you sell cuttings and frags. I will assume that you have a small tank. In most cases, what works in a macro enviroment can also work in a micro enviroment, like your nano tank. Because I am new to this foruim, I have not looked at your tank biotheme. If you explained more about your husbandry with the tank, I may be able to better understand your needs. When I understand the goal, I always aim for that mark. Link to comment
polyps222 Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Ok I am planning on using the kent tech m but before I do I have a couple of questions. How will this affect my corals? will it kill my chaeto algae as well? Link to comment
Mstefa1 Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Ok I am planning on using the kent tech m but before I do I have a couple of questions. How will this affect my corals? will it kill my chaeto algae as well? Some corals may be affected. In my experience (and I have many diverse corals including SPS) some of the light pink corals have lost their colors. The one that was affected the most was a pinkish clove which is now white. I have a few hitchhiker Kenya trees that are slightly light but that's it. Nothing has died, receded, or not shown growth. It won't affect your chaeto or coralline. If you raise extremely fast or use a different type of magnesium then some of your snails may be affected. I have not lost a snail yet but see my above post regarding one turbo. Keep in mind that my mg is substantially above 1900. Link to comment
Subsea Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Chaeto as a macroalgae will uptake magnesium as a major nutrient. If you maintain your parameters within prescribed limits, the corals should flourish. Be careful not to go to high with magnesium concentrations. If you have a substrate you may be binding magnesium to the carbonate substrate. Link to comment
polyps222 Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 What's the difference between the Kent Tech M Expert series and the Kent Tech M? Link to comment
Mstefa1 Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 What's the difference between the Kent Tech M Expert series and the Kent Tech M? Don't know, never used it. Link to comment
polyps222 Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 I received the magnesium today. Before I start pouring things into my tank do you guys have any recommendations? My tank is only 8 gallons Link to comment
Mstefa1 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Raise ~100 per day and I prefer to split the dose up several times / day. Use this calculator. http://reef.diesyst.com/flashcalc/flashcalc.html Link to comment
shaneandjohn Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 I am using Tech M for a Bryopsis battle Right now as well. I tried peroxide and while it did kill it off for a while, it came back after just 1 month. I used Brightwell Magnesium and kept my level at 1900 for 3 weeks and it worked, for more than 6 months I was Bryopsis free. While doing my water change last Saturday I Realized that it was coming back. I purchased the Tech M and over the last 6 days I have raised my level to 1900. I will hold this level for Atleast 5 weeks . This is a Battle I have been fighting for well over a year and a half. The tank I am treating is a 34 gallon tank. What I have learned for my tank is that 50 ml of Tech M which is about 2 Measured Tablespoons will raise my mag level 100. I would do a mag Test and get your base line reading. For an 8 gallon tank which is prolly only 6 gallons of water I would dose 25 ml of Tech M. I would wait about an hour and then test again and see how much the 25 ml raises it. Then you can determine how much you will have to dose daily to raise it 100 a day to get to 1900. I have a notebook that I record all of my dosing in,kinda like a fish Diary. Lol. I am not sure what test kit you are using? I am using the Elos kit. The Sailfert kit only went to like 1500 and while you can refill the syringe and keep going I wasn't sure of how accurate that would be. As stated above, it does take a lot of Tech M to do this treatment. I hope this helps. I have subscribed to this thread, so if you have any other questions just ask! Good luck. Shane Edit, use the Calculator in the above post!! 1 Link to comment
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