darwin604 Posted May 23, 2004 Share Posted May 23, 2004 I've had a 250W MH with a 55W PC actinic over a 26 gal bowfront that I set up for my brother. We've added various species of soft corals, SPS (montipora and pocilopora) and a brain coral. All the softies are totally bleached and shriveled even tho they're at the bottom of the tank, the two SPS frags are dying (all water params are perfect . . Kh, Ca, PH, Salinity etc) . . With the two lights it a total of 305W over a 36 . . is this excessive? We'd like to keep a variety of corals. Is there any way to limit the output of the light (ie a glass barrier or something??) I was also considering using a single higher K rated MH and ditching the actinic. I'd like to solve the problem without having a buy and new ballast etc. Any suggestions would be terrific. d. Link to comment
pyrrhus Posted May 23, 2004 Share Posted May 23, 2004 try reducing the photoperiod to about 4 hours and working it up slowly. Link to comment
EtOH_is_good Posted May 23, 2004 Share Posted May 23, 2004 acclimate tank inhabitants to the new light. either reduce photo period and gradually increase or filter the light and slowly remove the filter. Link to comment
Undertheradar Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 If it is a dual ended halide, be sure you have the UV lens on the bulb...just in case... As far as the health of your softies...start out with lower photoperiods, like suggested, but also take note of the temp...that much wattage could be causing your tank to get too warm. Otherwise, changing your bulb out for a 20,000K like you were thinking would be a good idea. Link to comment
greentreepython Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 What is your water temp Link to comment
Treevore Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Funny, I was just reading this part of coral acclimation in Borneman's Aquarium Corals today. All of the above advice is accurate. Your corals are likely having a shock, because although your light is perfect in intensity, they are not used to such good conditions. They are used to either being in a dark shipping box or at an LFS with not near the intensity of light you have. So, as they said, use the shorter photoperiod and also try a UV lens if you have the double-ended, as they produce copious amounts of UV. Link to comment
darwin604 Posted May 26, 2004 Author Share Posted May 26, 2004 Its a regular scew-in bulb so I dont think UV is the issue. Tank temp is stable at about 80 - I have 2 fans on the hood which seems to keep everything under control. I'd have to agree that its probably the switch between the LFS' lighting conditions and my tank. d. Link to comment
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