My dilemma, need your opinions.

[pos_user]

OK, i did what everyone said i would do. Now i want to upgrade to MH. ANd yes, i admit i'm an idiot.

 

Anyway...I'm looking at www.hellolights.com and I see a nice retrofit kit for my custom hood.

 

175w Ushio 10k bulb

Electronic ARO Ballast

Reflector

 

http://store.yahoo.com/lamps-now/17methalbalk.html

 

comes to about 215 not including shipping.

 

or this one - better ballast, but doesnt specify the manufacturer of the bulb.

 

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=PFOr

 

 

I hear with the 10k bulbs, actinics are not needed, but can be used.

I was going to throw in a 13w actinic 03 PC in there when the MH lights were off, since the 10k mh would over power the 13w actinic if it were on at the same time. Do you guys think thats a good idea.

 

Or perhaps do you know of another site or kit of the same specs and quality for the same price (200-215).

 

Im lazy, and would be a lot happier if I were to have just one bulb in my hood. 20k might be a little too blue, and 10k might need actinic supplement. So i'm torn, not sure exactly what to do. i wanted to know how you guys have it set up and maybe some of your opinions.

 

Thanks.

 

Tank is 20H by the way.

[B16A2NR]

If your saying you want to run the 03 actinic all the time the halide is off, I would strongly suggest running the actinic an hour before the halide throughout the day and an hour after the halide is off. You shouldn't run a photoperiod over 12 hours. If you run light 24hrs you will probably have coral "bleaching" which happens when the polyps expel zooxanthellae to attract a different strain, perhaps to better cope with increased sunlight.

[mag0070]

1. I would go with hello lights, that second ballast is electro-magnetic and I would rather go with an electronic ballast, its smaller and it is more versatile i.e. it would run any type of bulb if you should change your mind in the future. More bang for the buck!

 

2. Since the 20k would be too blue, and the 10k too bright, I would find a middle ground by using a 10k MH and then adding actinic accents.

[pos_user]

yes, but what wattage would you suggest for actinic suppliments?

[Undertheradar]

for a 20H? 175wattSE bulbs are POSs. They have dismal outputs. For a 20H, 10,000Ks Caaaaan be run w/o actinics, but the true bulb for that would be a 20,000K. In any case, I would HIGHLY suggest that you either go with a 150wattDE (double ended) if you go the 10,000K route w/ actinic. These bulbs outperform the 175watters. Or, if you go with the 'one bulb' solution, a 20,000K is a fine choice. I use halide pendants on all my reefs, and with one exception, they are all w/o actinics. IMO, the 20,000Ks arent that blue...but heres the trick: Many euro spec bulbs are bluer than the american counterparts. Why? Cuz eurospec ones are designed to run with pulse start ballasts of HQI certification (US ones on cheaper, hotter, buzzing, and less reliable probe-start magnetic ballasts) that actually overdrive the bulb a bit. This makes them produce a 'whiter' light than when they are run on american or electronic ballasts. Now, I know, this is a bigger bulb...but the good thing is that since 250s are so much more popular (both SE and DE bulbs), the ballasts and bulbs are usually no more bling than the 150 or 175s, if not less. The new icecaps at premium aquatics are $125 for a new 150watt...and $115 for a 250watt. Go figure what they sell alot of...

 

here you go...this setup is BOSS just swap out the 10,000K for a 20,000K):

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=PFOp