GHill762 Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 blaster already did that. hands down his 'evil cluster' spanked a 14k phoenix, i believe was the bulb it was against. better color and more pop. i would liken my build's 'look' to a 20K Radium, but for pop and color, it handily beats one. interesting.. was there a thread about it? I'll have to do a search.. Link to comment
Veng Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Why does T5ho get a bye to the third round??? And why leave PC out of the party? I kid, I kid... Light is light. It doesn't really matter what generates it as long as the spectrum is there. Spectrum is much more important than what generates the spectrum. Of course they each have thier own spectrums but with the advent of LEDs you really can build any spectrum you want. Link to comment
GHill762 Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Why does T5ho get a bye to the third round??? order was not important.. you could mix and match in any order.. And why leave PC out of the party? I kid, I kid... I don't see a lot of tanks with PC anymore.. a few here and there.. Link to comment
Veng Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 I don't see a lot of tanks with PC anymore.. a few here and there.. Take a look at the one in my sig. It was PC for the first 12 months of it's life. Link to comment
GHill762 Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 Take a look at the one in my sig. It was PC for the first 12 months of it's life. yours was one of the few I was thinking of Link to comment
Veng Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 yours was one of the few I was thinking of Thanks! It's era has come to an end though. While I did like the nice white color I got from it, the bulbs for my fixture haven't been made in years and are hard to find. The ~100W of heat the thing was dumping into my tank was too much, and the addition of some TV LEDs to the tank has really made some things pop. I don't think I'll be going back any time soon. Link to comment
BradVincent Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 I don't think it's been mentioned - which Royal Blue are you using (Cree, Phillips, etc)? Please write down the bin or part numbers of the LEDs you buy, or at least make a record of where you bought them if they don't give you that information. If you (or anyone else) has time/money, I would appreciate doing the experiment with Royal Blue only. I think this would tell us more. Neutral White with Royal Blue is already very close to full spectrum. Most people assume RB is most of the energy for photosynthesis, so comparing that to full spectrum would be more interesting. Personally, I'd rather see you do CW over NW. This is not because I like CW (I do) but most people doing a DIY build or buying the more expensive newer fixtures are going to have NW + full spectrum, and people on older commercial fixtures are going to have CW + RB. Almost no one is using NW + RB only. Great to see people doing this. I would if I had more time and money. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 If you (or anyone else) has time/money, I would appreciate doing the experiment with Royal Blue only. I think this would tell us more. Neutral White with Royal Blue is already very close to full spectrum. Most people assume RB is most of the energy for photosynthesis, so comparing that to full spectrum would be more interesting. Ugly and I have both seen that done before. It does not work. Coral growth is completely stopped and they will eventually begin to die back. Link to comment
Veng Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 NW+RB is pretty common fixture after the 3-up came out. Link to comment
mcarroll Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Ugly and I have both seen that done before. It does not work. Coral growth is completely stopped and they will eventually begin to die back. Assuming you're referring to using only blue lighting. Super-ugly to be sure (unless you're selling coral "with POP" online...LOL) but I've seen Florida Ricordia do fine for many months under just blue light. Colors didn't change or anything. Growth was very slow, but it was a low nutrient system, so not sure how much was lights and how much was lack of feeding. Just an anecdote, though. I'd never bother running a tank that way, nor recommend that anyone else would either. -Matt Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Assuming you're referring to using only blue lighting. Super-ugly to be sure (unless you're selling coral "with POP" online...LOL) but I've seen Florida Ricordia do fine for many months under just blue light. Colors didn't change or anything. Growth was very slow, but it was a low nutrient system, so not sure how much was lights and how much was lack of feeding. Just an anecdote, though. I'd never bother running a tank that way, nor recommend that anyone else would either. -Matt As in only royal blue LEDs or with any other type of actinic lighting? In the wild, corals are subjected to an extreme amount of violet and blue light, with a little green coming as well. Red light is filtered out completely after 10m, but deep red light is still found to be useful to chlorophyll in corals. I'd imagine that if you had a broad spectrum from 400-500nm with nothing else, coral growth would be the same as if you had full-spectrum lighting. You would just need to make sure you had enough violet light. The recommended maximum amount of 400-440nm light is 45W/m2, and of 440-480nm is 40W/m2. Link to comment
BradVincent Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Assuming you're referring to using only blue lighting. Super-ugly to be sure IMO the benefit of an experiment like this is not to compare 2 configurations you might use so you can pick the best one. It is to quantify the effects of various lights. For example, suppose we knew that 100 watts with a sharp peak at 420nm LEDs grew coral better than 100 watts of the more efficient 445nm royal blues everyone is using, or 100 watts of full spectrum lighting, or 100 watts spread evenly over the blue-violet range. Then if we built a fixture, we could start with a huge spike at 420nm with enough output to grow the coral we want (which would be ugly by itself) and then add other colors based on our person preference of how this tank looks. I am not arguing whether or not 420nm is better or worse than anything else, just saying how it would change our build process if we found out it was. If instead we found out that broad spectrum with an even distribution from 400nm-500nm worked the best, we'd build off that. Link to comment
mcarroll Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 As in only royal blue LEDs or with any other type of actinic lighting? In the wild, corals are subjected to an extreme amount of violet and blue light, with a little green coming as well. Red light is filtered out completely after 10m, but deep red light is still found to be useful to chlorophyll in corals. I'd imagine that if you had a broad spectrum from 400-500nm with nothing else, coral growth would be the same as if you had full-spectrum lighting. You would just need to make sure you had enough violet light. The recommended maximum amount of 400-440nm light is 45W/m2, and of 440-480nm is 40W/m2. About 4w of royal blue over a 15g tank. (We were only talking about LED's, right?) Link to comment
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