Gahau Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Hey guys! Here is how I wired my LEDs for the Fluval Egde 12g. Here is the issue I am running into, I am pretty sure I wired it correctly and that all the solder points are good. As I mentioned I am still waiting on the 10V AC Adapter... So I used a 9V battery instead of the 10V Adapter. Issues: 1. The SV2 knob on the driver seams to free spin... 2. As I power the LEDs the LEDs seam very dim 3. Could not adjust the intensisty of the LEDs while adjusting the POT 4. I could only power the whites and the OCW, havent tried with the violets (I am affraid to burn them sicen I am not sure I can adjust the SV2). The blues didnt even light up BUT as I unpluged the driver all 8 blues flashed at me aftera couple of sec... Am I doing anything wrong? Will all the issue I am having gonna go away as I plug in a true 10V? I have added the layout on the LEDs in the attached pic! Also its day 11 today since I started the nano tank. Used ocean water, live sand and rock. Amonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 (never budged) Nitrate: 20ppm Is it ready for CUC? Link to comment
uglybuckling Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Hey guys! Here is how I wired my LEDs for the Fluval Egde 12g. Here is the issue I am running into, I am pretty sure I wired it correctly and that all the solder points are good. As I mentioned I am still waiting on the 10V AC Adapter... So I used a 9V battery instead of the 10V Adapter. Issues: 1. The SV2 knob on the driver seams to free spin... 2. As I power the LEDs the LEDs seam very dim 3. Could not adjust the intensisty of the LEDs while adjusting the POT 4. I could only power the whites and the OCW, havent tried with the violets (I am affraid to burn them sicen I am not sure I can adjust the SV2). The blues didnt even light up BUT as I unpluged the driver all 8 blues flashed at me aftera couple of sec... Am I doing anything wrong? Will all the issue I am having gonna go away as I plug in a true 10V? I have added the layout on the LEDs in the attached pic! Also its day 11 today since I started the nano tank. Used ocean water, live sand and rock. Amonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 (never budged) Nitrate: 20ppm Is it ready for CUC? Wiring plan looks good on paper. I'd check and check again for bad connections. Those drivers only go up to 680mA as best I can tell. Won't be a huge problem regardless of the answer, but I'm still curious--what LEDs are you using? Your potentiometers are wired in parallel, meaning that the poor battery is having to push an awful lot of current. Meanwells pull 30mA each on the dimming channel so you're looking at 120mA for the rig...not a problem for a wall wart, but might be for a battery. I simply don't know. It's very odd that SV2 can spin freely. Usually you turn it all the way counterclockwise (gently!) and there's a hard stop. Then you turn it up from there using a multimeter. Not sure what to advise if it's missing the hard stop. The flashing after power-off is normal and nothing to worry about. Just the driver's caps discharging into the LEDs. Link to comment
Gahau Posted October 13, 2012 Author Share Posted October 13, 2012 Wiring plan looks good on paper. I'd check and check again for bad connections. Those drivers only go up to 680mA as best I can tell. Won't be a huge problem regardless of the answer, but I'm still curious--what LEDs are you using? Your potentiometers are wired in parallel, meaning that the poor battery is having to push an awful lot of current. Meanwells pull 30mA each on the dimming channel so you're looking at 120mA for the rig...not a problem for a wall wart, but might be for a battery. I simply don't know. It's very odd that SV2 can spin freely. Usually you turn it all the way counterclockwise (gently!) and there's a hard stop. Then you turn it up from there using a multimeter. Not sure what to advise if it's missing the hard stop. The flashing after power-off is normal and nothing to worry about. Just the driver's caps discharging into the LEDs. Connection they should be all good (all LEDS flashed at me) LEDS: LEDgroup buy (cree for the 3UP, and I am not too sure for the OCW and the Violet) I was recommended 500mA for the Viotlets and 750mA for the OCW Drivers:... Thats my issue here I am sure that they ae not supposed to free spin... I wasnt hard on them while I turned the knobs... Might be defective ARG! I will just wait patiently for the wall wart... Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Connection they should be all good (all LEDS flashed at me)LEDS: LEDgroup buy (cree for the 3UP, and I am not too sure for the OCW and the Violet) I was recommended 500mA for the Viotlets and 750mA for the OCW Drivers:... Thats my issue here I am sure that they ae not supposed to free spin... I wasnt hard on them while I turned the knobs... Might be defective ARG! I will just wait patiently for the wall wart... 750mA on the OCW will destroy it instantly Meanwells are notorious for being defective and SRV2 being "free spinning" so you are running a high risk of blowing the LEDs. FYI 1 OCW is 8.6v so I dont think those meanwells go down that low. Link to comment
uglybuckling Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Yah, 750mA is way way too high for a generic OCW. They should only ever go to 500mA. I keep my Luxeon Rebel OCWs around 600mA. They might be able to take more, but that's plenty bright for me. Never heard of that on the Meanwell drivers....but yeah, given what Milad is saying, I'd tend to wonder if they aren't defective. Also, I doubt you put 750mA through the OCW: But 630mA would probably still fry it. Edit: image copyright Meanwell, available http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-30/ELN-30-spec.pdf . Reproduced here for non-profit educational use only. Link to comment
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