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Cultivated Reef

recommend 3 components to my filter setup


racer_X_123

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Right now I am running filter floss and chemi pure elite. I am going to make a change because I have GHA, cyno(kinda), diatoms, and bubble algea.

 

What can you guys recommend that I add?

 

I have the jbj nano cube 12g.

 

Thanks!

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resarch {ro di systems for aquriums

I buy my water a reputable LFS and while I cannot independently verify that the parameters are zero I have to take the guys word for it.

 

When I test for parameters it tests zero as well.

 

I do water changes of about 1.5 gallons a week.

 

With all that said, I do suspect the water quality (TDS) from the store may not be what he claims

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I buy my water a reputable LFS and while I cannot independently verify that the parameters are zero I have to take the guys word for it.

 

When I test for parameters it tests zero as well.

 

I do water changes of about 1.5 gallons a week.

 

With all that said, I do suspect the water quality (TDS) from the store may not be what he claims

 

A TDS meter is cheap so if you are purchasing RODI water you can easily verify the results. You obviously have a lot going on in your tank. what is the age of it? Stocking of corals, inverts, and fish?

 

Diatoms: I've only seen these on a newly established tank or after stirring up the sand bed. Diatoms normally feed on silicate in the water often found in your substrate. They should clear up on their own in a day or so. If this is not happening then either you have a silcate from (possibily from your water source) or you make be looking at a different form of brown algae.

 

Cyano: Easily cleared up with Chemiclean - yes I just did this my self a few weeks ago and was 100% effective

 

GHA: Good luck on that one. You might be dipping your live rock in peroxide if its out of control. GHA is better controlled prior to the outbreak IMO. Your source would be nitrates & phosphates. Normally control measures include your standard tank maintenance. Regular water changes, skimmer to remove DOCs, GFO reactor to remove phosphate, reduced feeding, and reducing lighting will get you in the right direction.

 

Bubble Algae: Manual removal, don't burst the bubbles.

 

Note my previous tank I tore down after loosing the battle to GHA. You need to post your test results for Phosphates (tested with a low kit such as a hanna checker), Nitrates, and if you truely have diatoms then Silicate testing would do.

 

I strongly recommend a series of larger water changes followed by manual removal however if your source water is the problem then this may get you nowhere.

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Ask your lfs to test their water for you before you buy, if they want to keep your business and their water is at 0 then they will do it.

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  • 1 month later...
A TDS meter is cheap so if you are purchasing RODI water you can easily verify the results. You obviously have a lot going on in your tank. what is the age of it? Stocking of corals, inverts, and fish?

 

Diatoms: I've only seen these on a newly established tank or after stirring up the sand bed. Diatoms normally feed on silicate in the water often found in your substrate. They should clear up on their own in a day or so. If this is not happening then either you have a silcate from (possibily from your water source) or you make be looking at a different form of brown algae.

 

Cyano: Easily cleared up with Chemiclean - yes I just did this my self a few weeks ago and was 100% effective

 

GHA: Good luck on that one. You might be dipping your live rock in peroxide if its out of control. GHA is better controlled prior to the outbreak IMO. Your source would be nitrates & phosphates. Normally control measures include your standard tank maintenance. Regular water changes, skimmer to remove DOCs, GFO reactor to remove phosphate, reduced feeding, and reducing lighting will get you in the right direction.

 

Bubble Algae: Manual removal, don't burst the bubbles.

 

Note my previous tank I tore down after loosing the battle to GHA. You need to post your test results for Phosphates (tested with a low kit such as a hanna checker), Nitrates, and if you truely have diatoms then Silicate testing would do.

 

I strongly recommend a series of larger water changes followed by manual removal however if your source water is the problem then this may get you nowhere.

sorry it took so long to reply!

My tank is just under 6 months old now and I think I found my problem. I was using the light bulbs that were given to me when I bought the tank used. I just switched to LEDs and my cyano outbreak as subsided and what hair algea I had has started to die.

 

I guess when they say change your bulbs every 6-8 months they mean it!

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