300 deep dimension lighting q's

[CLR]

Hi a local friend was curious about the possibility of lighting a 300 dd tank with a DIY full spectrum led fixture(s), I was just curious as to what u guys would recommend for such a massive tank from number of heat sinks to the number and kind of LEDs. The tank is 72"x36"x27". Any help would be appreciated.

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

Hi a local friend was curious about the possibility of lighting a 300 dd tank with a DIY full spectrum led fixture(s), I was just curious as to what u guys would recommend for such a massive tank from number of heat sinks to the number and kind of LEDs. The tank is 72"x36"x27". Any help would be appreciated.

 

Ratio using CREEs XTE would be:

 

6:3:3:1 of RB:NW:TV:OCW for a full spectrum build.

 

For the heatsinks, you may need two MakersLED 72" to handle the width of the tank, you may be able to get away with one but depending on your rock work, it could cause shadows. http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/makersled-desig...essional-grade/

 

 

For a mixed reef you are looking at the follow numbers for full spectrum:

 

96 RB

48 NW

48 TV

16 OCW

 

All with 40 and 60 degree optics.

[phasezero]

Do you have pictures of the tank? I feel like with a tank this big it would be helpful to understand his Aquascape. If I were doing a build with a tank with those dimensions without knowing his rock work I would get 6 of the 18" makers heatsinks. I'm imagining the this tank divided into 3 sections lengthwise and by 2 on the width. That gives you a rectangular section of 24"L x 18" W. That section would easily be covered by an 18" heatsink. I feel the multiple 18" Heatsinks is a great idea because it also gives you the chance to try out your color combination on a small scale to see if it's something you'd like to move forward with or give you other ideas for color experimentation. Also if for some reason you need to sell your lighting setup, you'd have a much better chance of selling several 18's vs a 72" long heat sink. You'd also end up saving $150.00 worth of heatsink material that could go towards LED's or drivers.

[uglybuckling]

Build 6 of these on twelve-inch heatsinks:

 

 

As long as they're cooled with a computer fan on each (a la makers heatsinks), you should have no issues with cooling despite the small heatsinks, and will save a good bit of money on aluminum that you don't need. Plus a lot of weight.

 

The LED counts work out to what Milad listed. I think.

 

 

Edit: except the OCWs. Three per would work out better. Blargh.

[uglybuckling]

 

Still not perfect, mine uses 3 OCWs times six heatsinks = 18, not the 16 Milad suggested.

 

Other than that, this is correct. And a workable layout.

 

This would probably fit on a 6" heatsink but I'm not entirely sure you'd be 100% ok on overheating on something that small. I'd stick with one foot anyway.

[CLR]

Well the tank is not setup so this is for his current build, thankyou for all the replies

[Paleoreef103]

Well the tank is not setup so this is for his current build, thankyou for all the replies

Cool. I'd definitely go for the double heat sink approach and with each heat sink having 4 of the uglyduckling arrays. Those arrays should cover a 24X24 area pretty well, but with a tank that deep you'll want some overlap between the arrays to minimize cold spots of low PAR and prevent shadowing. If I were you, I'd go 3 OCWs:6NW:12: RBs:8 TVs per array. Again, use tight optics or you'll have trouble with that 27" depth!

 

Keep in mind that I generally assume you want a ton of SPS. If you don't, you could probably cut the amount of LEDs in half.

[jedimasterben]

hell, for something that big, I'd look into doing some 'evil clusters' using Bridgelux BXRA 950B and Cree XT-E or Luxeon royals. Throw in some cool blue and violet and you should be all set.

[mpg732]

I think the bigger issue is that the tank width is 36". Getting good coverage would be my concern. Even if you make 12" fixtures and turn them so the 12" is going from front to back, your not going to get great coverage from front to back. I personally would order two 72" heat sinks and run those over the tank. What kind and how many LED's toy run is kinda personal. I personally think that those ration of RB to white, your tank will look to blue, but that,s just me.

[CLR]

I Also have a question regarding aquastyleonline maxwellen drivers, can u hook a controller to the dimmable drivers since they use a potentiometer?

[jedimasterben]

I Also have a question regarding aquastyleonline maxwellen drivers, can u hook a controller to the dimmable drivers since they use a potentiometer?

Nope.

[CLR]

So there is no automated way of controlling them with those drivers?

[jedimasterben]

Nope, and those drivers are garbage.

[CLR]

Ok just curious, is it the meanwells with a d at the end, like 48d, that can be controlled by a typhoon?

[uglybuckling]

I think the bigger issue is that the tank width is 36". Getting good coverage would be my concern. Even if you make 12" fixtures and turn them so the 12" is going from front to back, your not going to get great coverage from front to back. I personally would order two 72" heat sinks and run those over the tank. What kind and how many LED's toy run is kinda personal. I personally think that those ration of RB to white, your tank will look to blue, but that,s just me.

 

My plan was for six clusters, on twelve inch heatsinks.

 

They're arranged such that one is in front and one is in back--two rows of three.

 

Perhaps this was not adequately clear. It should have the same effect as two 72 inch heatsinks, except on your wallet.

 

See the diagram below. It should help clear things up, since my prose didn't get the job done (upon re-reading it, I was not particularly clear the first time around. I knew what I was picturing in my mind (what is shown below) but I didn't spell it out adequately).

 

 

 

Ok just curious, is it the meanwells with a d at the end, like 48d, that can be controlled by a typhoon?

 

 

D = 1-10V dimmable. Controllable by a DIM4 from Milad's company.

 

P = pulse-width control. Controllable by pretty much any other type of dimmer (Typhon included).

[uglybuckling]

Makers 12" = $50 *6 = $300.

 

Makers 72" = $300 *2 = $600.

 

 

Why buy all that extra aluminum?

[mpg732]

Makers 12" = $50 *6 = $300.

 

Makers 72" = $300 *2 = $600.

 

 

Why buy all that extra aluminum?

Front to back looks good but side to side I don't think it will cover all. I would add two more set of clusters.

[uglybuckling]

Also, as Jedi pointed out, for a tank that size, the Evil clusters are likely a better plan anyway, if you can source the part and an appropriate driver for a reasonable price.

 

I forgot about those. They're essentially the halide-killers of the LED world.

[jedimasterben]

Just standard drivers (two per Meanwell ELN-30-48 or 60-48), as they run 22v at 500ma. About $18 each for the big Bridgelux LED, a reflector (optic), and the holder for the reflector. Then matched with the right amount of royals and such.