Archaic37 Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 My tank has been cycling for 11 days now (water readings) and I have had a constantly high nitrates. I changed 25% of water yesterday and watched the nitrates drop to 20 but then today they are back up to closer to 40. Is this because I have been using distilled water instead of RO/DI? Link to comment
seabass Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Is this because I have been using distilled water instead of RO/DI?No, there shouldn't be any nitrate in either RO/DI or distilled water. Both are essentially pure. The nitrate is a by-product of the nitrogen cycle. All the ammonia is broken down into nitrite, which is processed into nitrate (by nitrifying bacteria). However, our nano tanks often don't support enough denitrifying bacteria to substantially reduce nitrate (process it into nitrogen gas). Therefore, water changes are used to export excess nitrate (and phosphate, etc). Chaeto, bio-pellets, and other methods are also used. However, I wouldn't expect your tank to be producing 20ppm more nitrate every day. I'm thinking that your test kit is difficult to distinguish between the two readings, and the actual increase was less. Link to comment
Archaic37 Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 It seems as when I am reading the tests the coloration is hard to distinguish whether it is 20 or 40. Link to comment
MeepNand Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Maybe getting a test at your LFS will be better if they do not use API kits. API is good for a general reading, but if it shows warning levels, get a test at your LFS. Link to comment
Archaic37 Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 Maybe getting a test at your LFS will be better if they do not use API kits. API is good for a general reading, but if it shows warning levels, get a test at your LFS. I would but my LFS charges $10 for a single test Link to comment
dormreefer Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Like other have said both are pure however RO/DI in general is a better choice than distilled I would but my LFS charges $10 for a single test Time for a new LFS I'd save up for a higher end test kit, they are good to have and likely will save you money in the long run Link to comment
MeepNand Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 I any case, 20 or 40, that is not good for a reef. Maybe adding some macroalgaes would help. Link to comment
Archaic37 Posted September 10, 2012 Author Share Posted September 10, 2012 Time for a new LFS I am in a small college town. It is literally the only one in town. Which sucks. It is a tiny store and only have one worker at a time and half the time it is an older guy who tells you things that would not be accepted amongst online reef forums i.e. he told me get 2 chromis and some rock to start my cycle. I any case, 20 or 40, that is not good for a reef. Maybe adding some macroalgaes would help. I have grape calapera in my aquaclear 70 about a large handful of it and I am hopping as it grows it will reduce my nitrates. Lighting it with a 10W underwater light (One of these) and currently going on a 24/7 cycle to promote growth. I also have a bag of seachem purigen but it is not in currently because I read that it will slow down cycling. Link to comment
seabass Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 A Warning Sign of Impending Caulerpa Sporulation Most people now use Chaeto in their refugiums. Link to comment
Archaic37 Posted September 10, 2012 Author Share Posted September 10, 2012 A Warning Sign of Impending Caulerpa Sporulation Most people now use Chaeto in their refugiums. I will be visiting my LFS tomorrow and since I have some chaeto in with my Caulerpa I know that they have some in their macro tank and will specifically request that. I don't like the caulerpa because anytime I move it around in the refugium the ball parts spill into the display and it takes 10-15 minutes for them to clear up. Link to comment
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