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Coral Vue Hydros

Best part a and part b


Jordangil

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I have started added coral to my tank so I am guessing I need to start dosing calcium and alk . I will be testing for it as well . I have 2 bottles of ionic part a and b but I am not sure if they are any good . I was looking at either brightwell or kent part a and b . What do you guys think what should I get ?

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altolamprologus

I use b-ionic and brightwell. Both are good brands. Test before you start dosing though. Since you just started adding coral, you likely won't need to start dosing for a while.

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I buy my salt premixed from my Lfs they use regular instant ocean so I don't think that has calcium . I do weekly 2-3 gallon water changes though

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What kind of corals are you planning on keeping?

If not too many LPS and no SPS, then I don't think there's a need to dose Ca and alk(Even with Instant Ocean salt). Besides, don't you do WC every week?

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I am going to start but for right now since I only need 3 gallons a week me paying 3.00 for perfectly mixed saltwater will do for now . I plan on mixing it myself soon though so you think no need for dosing them ? I change 3 gallons a week out of my biocube 14 it probably only has 9 gallons of water since there's a lot of live rock .

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I buy my salt premixed from my Lfs they use regular instant ocean so I don't think that has calcium . I do weekly 2-3 gallon water changes though

It has plenty of calcium in there. You don't need to dose. What are your test saying?

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I am still trying to figure out how to use the test its a red sea one .... It says keep putting more until the color changes it doesn't make a bit of sense .

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theevilsock
I am still trying to figure out how to use the test its a red sea one .... It says keep putting more until the color changes it doesn't make a bit of sense .

 

 

that's called a titration test. basic chemistry. you put in the water to be tested in a test tube, then the indicator solution (sometimes a mixture will go into the test tube to make the indicator), which adds color to the water. then you fill a syringe with the reagent (usually about 1 ml) and slowly add reagent drop by drop. once the color of the test solution changes and doesn't change back after you swish it around a bit you have reached the endpoint. That means you should look to see how much reagent you have used and compare that with the chart that came with the test kit to see how much calcium is in the tested water. Good luck!

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With the red sea kit you count how many drops of the part A you put in and multiply by 50. For example, I tested my 180 last night. 4 drops of part A, then the part B, then it took 5 more drops of part A to change color. Thats 9 drops total of part A, x 50 equals 450. So my calcium is perfect.

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convict2161

I started an experiment, I'm not dosing anything unless needed. all I'm doing is 5 gallon water changes once a week on my BC29 and once a month I do 10 gallons. I use Instant Ocean reef crystals. My tanks is packed with corals. So far so good.

 

 

If I do dose I use B ionic

 

 

Here's a little video of my tank since I can't seem to figure out why I can't post pics. So I'm on my iPhone.

 

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I am going to start but for right now since I only need 3 gallons a week me paying 3.00 for perfectly mixed saltwater will do for now . I plan on mixing it myself soon though so you think no need for dosing them ? I change 3 gallons a week out of my biocube 14 it probably only has 9 gallons of water since there's a lot of live rock .

It is not the cost of the water; it is the quality. Buy yourself a bag of oceanic salt for $18 and use that, so you know it's done right.

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Amphiprion1

I've used many of these products over the years. B-Ionic is the first commercially available 2-part additive and has been used by aquarists for a LONG time. My only gripe with it is the impurities that are introduced--a.k.a. "trace elements." I've come to prefer homemade versions, especially with higher purity materials and not a whole lot of extras (some impurities exist, of course). The only issue with them is the time and effort to make them, as well as their dilute nature--you'll have to add a good deal more of the DIY versions compared to commercial ones, like B-Ionic.

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