phasezero Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 One thing I have definitely noticed is that the Cree royal blue mixed with the neutral white causes a very noticeable purple tint to the tank. I have read that this is a common problem, and mixing in the regular blue color helps to diminish it, but I think in order to balance it completely it will require more of a turquoise or cyan shade. At this point, I am debating between two options: 1. Replace the High-CRIs with 4500Ks, and then modify the blue channel with a mixture of blue, cyan and deep red. 2. Put the cool white LEDs back, sell the AL SOL at a heavily discounted prices, and use the MakersLED heat sink setup to create my own custom LED fixture. I have to say I'm leaning towards number 2, with a custom 7-channel driver based off the same driver chip that Steve's LEDs uses. 2. I guess it depends on how important the look of the fixture is to you and how it fits with your tank setup. If I had a clean rimless elos tank and stand I'd probably stay away from the makers heatsink as it definitely isn't easy on the eyes. Although that's my own personal opinion. Everything else about the makers heatsink is awesome. I'd use the makers since I of course don't own a clean elos setup. Link to comment
ganjero Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Bringing this back. Has any one tried this to add other colors (red, green, UV)? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Bringing this back. Has any one tried this to add other colors (red, green, UV)?I wouldn't. You'd be sacrificing too much output from the main LEDs, IMHO. Link to comment
ganjero Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 when you say output are you referring to PAR? Because I wouldn't worry to much about that if you are using the Sol over a Nano. The main thing I would like to achieve is to have more vibrant reds in my corals. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Not particularly PAR (not really a useful metric, IMHO), but output in general. I would add LEDs to it, not take away, otherwise they may be overpowering. Warmer whites will do that for you, you don't have to worry about exotics. Link to comment
skulls_and_sparrows Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 I know this is a year old...but has anyone else tried this? I would really like to swap out some LEDS on my SOL's!!! Link to comment
Kamao Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Then do the Hydra upgrade then? Link to comment
skulls_and_sparrows Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Then do the Hydra upgrade then? No im looking for very specfic led colors and the hydra is for sure not it. Link to comment
obet_carlos Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 reviving this topic. My AI sol blue leds started to die out. So I tried using china Cree to replace the leds. I tried using the burner method to reef flow solder the leds but the leds get busted due to maybe to high temp. So I opted to just replace the led puck with 3 3W leds glued to the heatsink at just wire them to the control board. This is a semi DIY AI sol blue. I bought the led pucks, controller, white plastic cover, and lenses from a fellow reefer who upgrade from ai sol blue to vega a few years back. I attached them to a local heatsink and just added the fans on a timer. Closeup: Halfway done: Finished module: Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 How'd this work out ?! Link to comment
obet_carlos Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 here it is when half the LEDs were changed. Here is the effect on my red montipora (pardon the different color setting and poor resolution). We all know that the AI sol blue has problems with red corals due to lack of red spectrum. After just a few days, the once red-orange monti cap is now turning to be dark red. Link to comment
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