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Moved SPS to MH


MrKrispy

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Hey all of ya,

 

I have a few monti digis, a monti cap, as well as a frogspawn I used to keep in my 10g under 96W PC. I recently moved everything to a 20L under 250W of light. The frogspawn is right in the center to prevent it from stinging stuff, and it still seems to be doing well under that much light. I moved my montis to the sides. Would I be better off moving all of the montis to one side and the frogspawn to the other? I acclimated the corals to the light over a few weeks.

 

Second question: My monti cap was originally pink and turned brown/orange. My monti digi I got brown. Would these change back to better colors under MH or are they pretty much shot?

 

Last question: What would a few good SPS be to be put directly under the light at the top of the tank, but not in any direct flow?

 

 

Thanks

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OxInYourBox

I'd move the frogspawn to the side as you planned. Will give you more room for SPS. :)

 

Was your monti cap pink before you put it under the PC then it turned brown? It's possible that the color will come back to it and the others however don't hold me to it. My brown digitatas went from brown to dark green or bright green depending on the colony.

 

For the last question-How far away from the light are you talking and when you say direct flow do you mean powerhead blowing on the coral (not good), indirect flow from random current turbulence, or no flow at all? Almost all highlight SPS will need flow. Let us know what the flow is and we'll give you some ideas.

 

BTW where are the pics of the new light over the setup? :)

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Yah I got this darn MH for the SPS. I don't have direct flow on any of the corals. I was wondering if any of them like being under the aquaclear HOB outflow, hmm.

 

The monti cap was pink when I first got it. I have only had it under MH for month or less. I currently have the 250W pendant about 12" above the tank (no heat issues yet!). I would like to lower it to 6-9" if possible.

 

I will post some pics Thursday when I get home. Thanks!

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Gerard the fish

Only thing to watch out for from the Frogspawn would be sweeper tenticals. Most SPS desire high to medium flow and would probably love to be right under your HOB outflow.

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The colors of your corals are just due to the lighting temperature. What you didn't mention was what temp Kelvin bulbs you have. Lower temp (6500 K) will make things appear duller/more brownish. Higher temp bulbs (10,000 K or better) will cause the corals to flouresce and show of their true colors due to the bluer/actinic end of the spectrum that is produced.

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I moved the tank around, frogspawn at the end of the tank, most of the sps in the middle. The montis are at the right end of the tank. I got a yellow digi frag I put closer to the center. I now have several HUGE gaps ready for sps. Woohoo!

 

Oh, my light is a 250W DE 20K coralvue. Looks great.

 

I will get pics up tomorrow, thanks everyone.

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Put direct water flow on your digitatas as well as your montipora capricornus. You will notice an awsome change in both. They need direct fairly strong water flow. More so for the capricornus then the digitata. The capricornus has very tiny polyps that sprout out under strong current. I am only agreeing with the statment that higher temp. lighting brings out and floureces the true colors in corals though. it does flourece highlights and the like, but a pink montipora under any lighting is pink. I would keep it high onthe reef ( err them,,,...) and keep good flow around them. :)

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matt the fiddler

a little off topic- but related.. i am thinking of moving my frogspawn.. it is at the top- but a little too near my pink and orange tipped montis/ tri color acro... for my comfort.. [up current from them.. bout 5 inches] :/

 

has any one had expierence wiht one on the bottom [25 H] under say 130 W pc- 10K or is that gona starve it.. or how far away or down would you guys reccomend?

 

looking to stick a 70 watt halide in my hood in the next month...

 

;-)

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Originally posted by Reefmaniac

The colors of your corals are just due to the lighting temperature.  

Partially, actually what is happening here is increased zooanthelle production. This can happen with any color temp bulbs. Once the animal stabilizes in it's environment, these colors should brighten back up to normal after time.

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