tackman Posted March 29, 2004 Share Posted March 29, 2004 I went to Petco to buy a tank for a nano reef. I really wanted either the 16 or the 26 gallon all glass bowfront, but I got there and they had a 46 gallon bowfront that was not priced right. I got the tank and stand for $149. The stand was supposed to be another $200. Anyway, I guess that it is not really going to be a nano reef any more, but here is my question. The 46 gallon bowfront has a plastic tank support spanning the top middle of the tank. I really wanted to do metal halide lighting so... what do I need to do? Any one else have this problem? I'm guess that metal halide lights will melt that middle strip, but I've never had them before. What do yall suggest? Link to comment
tackman Posted March 30, 2004 Author Share Posted March 30, 2004 No one has a tank with a plastic support and meta halides? Link to comment
jmt Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 The support has GOT TO be there. My suggestion would be to get two (2) 175w MH Pendants and put one on either side of the support about 6" of the top of the tank. Then you may want to have a fan blowing air between the gap. I think the support would be o.k. in that situation and it would make for some beautiful light. -Justin Link to comment
tackman Posted March 30, 2004 Author Share Posted March 30, 2004 Great! I was thinking 175s. I was also thinking about making the pendants myself using the 70/150 watt pendant thread... but those HQI ballast are a lot of money! Do you think I should find a glass top or just go open? Right now I don't have a glass top. It is that sorry plastic hood they ship. Link to comment
jmt Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 I would run an open top to help with cooling. Check eBay and the forums for a ballast(s). I would use a single ended (SE) bulb instead of double ended (DE or HQI) for temperature purposes. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=46314 I would DIY those end caps into $5 clip on work-lights (bell shaped) from Home Depot, spray paint them black with some high heat paint, remove the clips, and suspend them from the cieling. -Justin Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 I had the same question about a 45H a while back on another forum. Couldn't get a straight answer so I cut out the brace and siliconed in a glass one. Kinda silly as I decided to go with softies and 4 55w PC after the fact but it is done if I decide to upgrade. speakeraddict Link to comment
tackman Posted March 30, 2004 Author Share Posted March 30, 2004 Yeah, I thought about doing that, but with the curved front glass, I don't think I can. I guess I will just have to give it a try and see what happens. Link to comment
jasontatro Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 Originally posted by speakeraddict Couldn't get a straight answer so I cut out the brace and siliconed in a glass one. Good luck with that tank. I hope you have a mop handy. Link to comment
Arden Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 I have had that exact set up for 2 years. I have only one 175 MH and I do have a shadow in the middle of my tank as a result. I keep the most light dependent animals out of the shadow and I have no problems. My pcs make it hard to see the shadow unless I turn them off. Two pendants would be better though. Link to comment
tackman Posted March 31, 2004 Author Share Posted March 31, 2004 Your saying that you have a 46 bowfront with a 175 MH mounted above it? You have a plastic tank support also? How high is your light from the strip? Do you have any pictures? Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted March 31, 2004 Share Posted March 31, 2004 jasontatro- what do you mean? I have built several tanks over the years in glass, plywood, fiberglass and acrylic and have never had one of mine leak. The brace is very stong. Oceanic does braces like this. As a side note, the only tank I have ever had leak in my life is a store bought one. And I am not dumb enough to test in the house anyway so no mop necessary. I will fill it with water on the stand in the garage with 1/4" styrofoam between the stand and tank for two weeks before bringing it in the house. I would do this for any tank after the one leak disaster I had. speakeraddict Link to comment
jasontatro Posted April 1, 2004 Share Posted April 1, 2004 I just said that because any time you cut out a part of the tank that was meant to be there you are weakening the integrity of the tank. You may not have had any problems with it, but I wouldn't suggest it as a normal practice and I'm sure the manufacturer wouldn't either. Link to comment
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