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Eclipse 12 - Having Trouble....need advice


pufferboy

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How can I get ro/di water in a smaller isolated area w/o a really expensive filter?
You already have an RO, all you need to do is add a DI stage to it.
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Just attach it to the current system? It is our drinking water.
Yep. Something like this:

 

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showprod...=39&Sub=127

 

"BFS-72 Add on DI kit with color changing resin - Couple this with your existing RO unit for ultra-pure water"

 

You can buy a Tee, valves, and fittings from your local hardware store that allow an RO output for your tap for drinking, and a separate DI output for reef water. That's what I have at home, a split system. Works great.

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Well I ordered a DI kit....(thanks to those that helped) and two pico hydro 200 pumps to increase water flow, some magnesium, and a gigantic box of salt. Lets hope this all works out.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Yep, do several (>50%) water changes with DI SW over the next few days to export all the junk out of your system, maybe even do some manual removal and you should be on the road to recovery. Hang in there!

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  • 2 months later...

Ok, finally updating after a long ride on the crazy reef tank roller coaster. Bryopsis (check), hairy algae (check), and me having no idea what I was doing at the beginning (check kinda). Here are is how the tank looked, how it looks now, and some of the friends.

 

December 11 Bryopsis Attack

HairyTank.jpg

 

March 2012 Kinda Normal

March2012.jpg

 

Chloe

Chloe.jpg

 

Sidney

Sydney.jpg

 

Torch

Torch.jpg

 

Bubble Tip

BubbleTip.jpg

 

Greenies

GPS.jpg

 

Green Mob

GreenMob.jpg

 

Green Ric

GreenRic.jpg

 

Leather

Leather.jpg

 

Textured Mush

MushBig.jpg

 

Superman Ric

Ric.jpg

 

Mush Mush

Mushx3.jpg

 

Let me know what you think.

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What did you do to get rid of bryopsis? My tank looked just like yours couple of weeks ago. Started dosing with Tech M and now it is 60% gone and more of it is dying off.

 

EDIT: Never mind. I see brandon429 here. I suspect peroxide!

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Read through my thread. The majority of my treating has been Hydrogen Peroxide. I take the rock out and target treat with either a soaked tooth brush or a spray bottle. I allow it to sit for a couple minutes then rinse with saltwater. This has been a life saver. Occasionally, I will see a start up of something that should not be there and get rid of it quick.

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Going to a frag swap this weekend. Here is a list of things that I have pre-ordered. If anyone has some basic care needs for these that would be huge. Currently running a 75 watt T5 mix of 10k and 14k bulbs.

 

1. mini mini carpet

2. Ricordia

3. Monti

4. Bubble Tip

5. Polyps

 

Thanks.

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Nice way to stick with it, so many would have thrown in the towel. I'm looking forward to seeing how this tank evolves.

 

I'm surprised I read so many comments about peroxide and treatment. Hobbyist's in the planted world have been using it to eradicate algae from planted tanks for years now. #### works, what's there to be leery about?

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Its just kind of new for nano use...it has drastic effects on some creatures, zero effect on others, we're just working out the details and people want to be safe that's all...

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I recently treated a small area in my tank and only lightly rinsed off the peroxide before I returned the rocks. Since that time my Torch and Anenome have been lethargic. Don't know if those two are related, but worth mentioning.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok guys....help me out. I am having troubles. Got slime, torch died, bubble tips are struggling. Have some algae coming back. Here is what I use.

 

Weekly water change at 15%

 

A fluval 305 that holds floss, bulk reef supply phosphate remover, and carbon. Change floss every week and the removers every 3.

 

My lighting is cheap.... a T5 2 acintic and 2 10 k bulbs.

 

This is a 12 gallon tank and I have to make a change or dump hundreds of dollars.

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External treatments + strong rinsing in the presence of anems was covered well

 

 

 

id be curious to see water param logs for CA/alk if possible

 

Need updated full tank shot

 

What is slime?

 

where does your topoff water come from

 

 

What do you spotfeed your corals/tank with

 

phosphate stripping media is associated with cyano blooms and when overdone kills corals

 

can we see a shot of your sandbed seen from the front of the tank, i'm looking for accumulation

 

 

 

These tanks that are crash-saves need work to cure. Pics will tell and answers above

 

There is not any time id recommend a problem tank change out that small of a water change weekly

 

Much of this is predicting without seeing updated pics, but over the last few months your nutrient management has varied, no steady state attained yet. once you find a simple method I think it will stabilize

 

Numerous tanks run without gfo stripping media, keep using it if you want but you are leaving a variable in play that had a known association with two of your posted concerns.

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Also I looked at your pics again

 

The anemone and corals were added within the last few weeks or how long ago

 

Has the lighting changed? December pics yellowish, new coral pics blue..

 

 

The stocking was quick alongside problem curing, you had lots going on . Managing fish waste and feed command while fighting algae while trying to see if you can keep a tough anem under unknown lighting is among the hardest ways to run a nano, many variables going on at once!

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The more you simplify your tank the easier it will be to run. make big, not small weekly water changes so you can spotfeed at least two kinds of high quality refrigerated or frozen reef feed to corals

 

The clowns and anemone are stocked quickly, that's a master bioload and highly sensitive pairing to run alongside algae cure approaches in an uncured, recovering tank

 

consider not having them until you've kept the tank for 5 or6 months on starter corals and simple inverts, using this time to tune lights, feed and pertinent water params per animals stocked. This tank has had abnormal problems so it should not be stocked in the usual ways.

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