pressurized C02 for seagrass?

[keydiver]

Ok, so I broke down my high tech FW tank to make way for my new lagoon tank. It is powered by 110w of power compact, although that may change as time goes by. It's going to be macro dominated, hoping to do paddle grass or possible star grass for the sandbed. Being a hightech FW tank, I still have my C02 system with a 5 lb tank, double stage regulator, diffuser, bubble counter...all that stuff. I will definitely be using it, just not sure how, as i've only ever used it on a freshwater system.

 

1. How much should I be injecting bubble wise? How much ppm of C02 should I have dissolved in the water column at one time?

 

2. I have tons of dry fertilizers left over from my FW tank, i'm wondering if they were serve the same purpose in the marine aquaria, but i'm afraid that they will react with the free ions in saltwater and mess up my water quality. I would be dosing KNO3 as the macro nutrient, along with CSM+B, containing all trace elements and a good amount of iron ( Although I'm not sure if I would need this )

 

i'm hoping to get soem lush growth and support a seagrass bed with species from halophila, since others need a really deep sandbed, and I can only provide a 2" sandbed.

 

Any advice is greatly appreciated, I know some of you macros guys will chime in on this one.

[Amphiprion1]

Ok, so I broke down my high tech FW tank to make way for my new lagoon tank. It is powered by 110w of power compact, although that may change as time goes by. It's going to be macro dominated, hoping to do paddle grass or possible star grass for the sandbed. Being a hightech FW tank, I still have my C02 system with a 5 lb tank, double stage regulator, diffuser, bubble counter...all that stuff. I will definitely be using it, just not sure how, as i've only ever used it on a freshwater system.

 

1. How much should I be injecting bubble wise? How much ppm of C02 should I have dissolved in the water column at one time?

 

2. I have tons of dry fertilizers left over from my FW tank, i'm wondering if they were serve the same purpose in the marine aquaria, but i'm afraid that they will react with the free ions in saltwater and mess up my water quality. I would be dosing KNO3 as the macro nutrient, along with CSM+B, containing all trace elements and a good amount of iron ( Although I'm not sure if I would need this )

 

i'm hoping to get soem lush growth and support a seagrass bed with species from halophila, since others need a really deep sandbed, and I can only provide a 2" sandbed.

 

Any advice is greatly appreciated, I know some of you macros guys will chime in on this one.

 

It's up to you, really. Added pressurized CO2 is not necessary for lush groth, especially in the species you named. It can accelerate growth, however, that surprisingly may not be desirable once all other variables for growth are accounted for. If everything is ideal, I think you'll be more than satisfied with the growth (you may even get more than you want...).

[keydiver]

It's up to you, really. Added pressurized CO2 is not necessary for lush groth, especially in the species you named. It can accelerate growth, however, that surprisingly may not be desirable once all other variables for growth are accounted for. If everything is ideal, I think you'll be more than satisfied with the growth (you may even get more than you want...).

 

hmmm.... maybe I can pay for this tank with the sale of the C02 stuff then . I will try do it without C02 and hold on to the equipment, possible play around with it and see what's up.

 

Any adivce for the dry ferts?

 

I was planning on just dumping the water from my reef tank into this tank for its "water change". It will still be quality water, just it will have some boosted nutrients for growth.

[Amphiprion1]

hmmm.... maybe I can pay for this tank with the sale of the C02 stuff then . I will try do it without C02 and hold on to the equipment, possible play around with it and see what's up.

 

Any adivce for the dry ferts?

 

I was planning on just dumping the water from my reef tank into this tank for its "water change". It will still be quality water, just it will have some boosted nutrients for growth.

 

The only ones I bother with are potassium nitrate and a liquid iron supplement. Even then, if I'm able to feed generously, I don't even use them. I mostly just rely on them when I notice growth slowing and/or deficiencies/imbalances in N & P appearing.

 

Edit: I would also hold onto the equipment and try your luck without it. If you are dissatisfied, give it a shot. A small protein skimmer to aerate the water and add CO2, which is typically abundant in houses. Just something to consider.

[seabass]

1. How much should I be injecting bubble wise? How much ppm of C02 should I have dissolved in the water column at one time?

Hmm...I'm checking pH instead of CO2 (I assume they are related). I'm using a controller to measure pH and shut it off as pH drops below a predetermined level. My skimmer helps keep the water oxygenated.

 

2. I have tons of dry fertilizers left over from my FW tank, i'm wondering if they were serve the same purpose in the marine aquaria, but i'm afraid that they will react with the free ions in saltwater and mess up my water quality. I would be dosing KNO3 as the macro nutrient, along with CSM+B, containing all trace elements and a good amount of iron ( Although I'm not sure if I would need this )

I think that you could dose KNO3 (potassium nitrate) and even KH2PO4 (monopotassium phosphate) if called for. You will have to carefully test the levels, calculate consumption, and dose accordingly. Do research on each additive before using them (some freshwater plant additives react poorly in a marine environment).

 

i'm hoping to get soem lush growth and support a seagrass bed with species from halophila, since others need a really deep sandbed, and I can only provide a 2" sandbed.

 

Any advice is greatly appreciated, I know some of you macros guys will chime in on this one.

Maybe try a 3" bed (you might also try mixing in some Fiji Mud). Keep the temperature up around 80 degrees. And good lighting seems to help.

[keydiver]

The only ones I bother with are potassium nitrate and a liquid iron supplement. Even then, if I'm able to feed generously, I don't even use them. I mostly just rely on them when I notice growth slowing and/or deficiencies/imbalances in N & P appearing.

 

Edit: I would also hold onto the equipment and try your luck without it. If you are dissatisfied, give it a shot. A small protein skimmer to aerate the water and add CO2, which is typically abundant in houses. Just something to consider.

 

 

That might work. I was going to run it skimmerless because I don;t exactly have the setup to run a skimmer. My drain is a herbie style modified so that it is a standpipe to the far right for delivery to my submerged sump, then the emergency overflow standpipe all the way to the left, with the return standpipe in the middle. It worked for my FW tank, but i've had a problem with surface scum. Do you think I should modify my filtration? I could just lower the water level so that the overflow standpipe skims the surface, and that would most definitely aerate the water, but that would mean it woild be really loud, and this is in my bedroom.

 

Hmm...I'm checking pH instead of CO2 (I assume they are related). I'm using a controller to measure pH and shut it off as pH drops below a predetermined level. My skimmer helps keep the water oxygenated.

 

I think that you could dose KNO3 (potassium nitrate) and even KH2PO4 (monopotassium phosphate) if called for. You will have to carefully test the levels, calculate consumption, and dose accordingly. Do research on each additive before using them (some freshwater plant additives react poorly in a marine environment).

 

Maybe try a 3" bed (you might also try mixing in some Fiji Mud). Keep the temperature up around 80 degrees. And good lighting seems to help.

 

 

Yeah, that's what I figured. If i'm investing in a RKL anytime soon, I will hook up my solenoid to do just that.

 

I also have monopotassium phosphate, so I may use that depending on the levels of nutrients.

 

Do you think 110w of power compacts will be sufficient? They are about 20" from the sandbed.

[BLoCkCliMbeR]

Hmm...I'm checking pH instead of CO2 (I assume they are related). I'm using a controller to measure pH and shut it off as pH drops below a predetermined level.

 

dont they pump CO2 into Ca reactors to dissolve the media in them? CO2 might be bad mojo for a SW tank. {insert science stuff here}

[Amphiprion1]

That might work. I was going to run it skimmerless because I don;t exactly have the setup to run a skimmer. My drain is a herbie style modified so that it is a standpipe to the far right for delivery to my submerged sump, then the emergency overflow standpipe all the way to the left, with the return standpipe in the middle. It worked for my FW tank, but i've had a problem with surface scum. Do you think I should modify my filtration? I could just lower the water level so that the overflow standpipe skims the surface, and that would most definitely aerate the water, but that would mean it woild be really loud, and this is in my bedroom.

 

 

 

 

Yeah, that's what I figured. If i'm investing in a RKL anytime soon, I will hook up my solenoid to do just that.

 

I also have monopotassium phosphate, so I may use that depending on the levels of nutrients.

 

Do you think 110w of power compacts will be sufficient? They are about 20" from the sandbed.

 

Don't go beyond what you are willing to do, especially considering the tank's location. No reason to inconvenience yourself. Surface scum is unattractive and attenuates some light, but isn't critical to reduce for the grasses. You could also consider a small powerhead with an aerating feature (assuming you can contain the bubbles in the sump. Not absolutely critical in all circumstances, but it can help, especially if photosynthesis really drives pH upward (mine without aeration creeps to ~8.5-8.6). Of course, CO2 injection could be a real benefit there. I've just gotten to where I prefer a simpler approach, as it seems to induce less *insanity* on my part when an issue with the system arises. It makes it more enjoyable for me, anyway. Plus, at the very least, there is less to break and/or replace (though I do have some safeguards in place in case of failure). That's more of a personal philosophy, though.

 

As far as KH₂PO₄ goes, it shouldn't usually be necessary. If you are feeding on any sort of reasonable basis, P should rarely ever be limited in marine systems. I know it depleted rapidly in my now defunct very high light FW system, but it is (much) less likely to be an issue in such a system (at least in how I maintain mine). The only time I could see it being absolutely necessary would be if stocking and/or feeding are minimal and light is very generous. In my particular systems, P actually increased often, necessitating either increased feeding or addition of KNO₃, after which it would drop to undetectable levels. I also use pretty intense lighting, as well, considering my system is small. It all really depends upon how the system is maintained. Definitely wouldn't hurt to keep on hand just in case, though. I just doubt there will be a need for it.

 

Edit: I like how this forum allows for using subscripts. It's a nerdy thing...

[seabass]

dont they pump CO2 into Ca reactors to dissolve the media in them? CO2 might be bad mojo for a SW tank. {insert science stuff here}

Yep. However, in a calcium reactor, you are locally reducing the pH under 7 to dissolve the media. In the case of dosing CO2, you will keep the system's pH closer to 8.