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cpr HOB refugium + float switch


thisanthrope

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thisanthrope

I just replaced my diy fuge with a 12" cpr bakpak fuge. couple questions for those using this kind of fuge. Im pretty sure that a float switch doesnt work inside the fuge with the baffles setup to keep a constant water level. Am I right in thinking this?

 

Also would taking the elbow off the end of the outflow tube so the flow would go directly down instead of turning with that bend peice cause any problems with the siphon? It sticks out too far off the back of my 10 gal.

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Reefer_Buddha

float switch in fuge or any hob wont work. They keep a constant water level from pumps bringing water in. You tank could have 1" of water but if the hob is bringin in water its keeping it at a certain level

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I run one in my fuge. You have to put it in the outlet side. Here the water level reaches and equilibrum with the main tank. Once it does, even though it might be slightly higher than the main tank, it will rise and drop at ther same rate as water in the main.

 

Buddha is right thought, in that putting the switch in the main tank is the best way.....I just don't have room! I think birdman also runs the same set up as myself.

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thisanthrope

right, thats the section I was perplexed by. Ive moved it from the main tank to outlet side of the fuge and noticed Im using the same amount of makeup water since the move.

 

thanks

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interesting, i didn't know you could do this. i wonder if it would work on mine? I'd love to get that float out of my tank, that would give me room for a skimmer! I do notice that side of the fuge does rise and fall with the tank.

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The oulet "in theory" should be equal with the tank because it is in equilibrium. My experience is the outlet side is about a cm above the tank level. what I did was plan to do my inital adjustments over a 3 days weekend that I knew I'd be around to prevent any floodage.

 

I've had it working for about 2 months now, and birdman actually gave me the idea.

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You all are right. Putting the float switch in the return compartment will work but be careful. You must be sure that after you set up your float switch that you do not change the flow rate going into the sump too much, otherwise the level of water in the out flow compartment will rise. The flow rate into the sump is what determines the height of the water in the outlet compartment. So it will work but just be observant.

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does the outlet compartment of the fuge have a vacum setup with its return line into the main tank?

 

I'm not experienced with fuges, but I was wondering what would happen if the fuge's pump died.

 

Would this cause ill effects on the tank (ie: overflowing the main tank?). Maybe the vacuum (if there is one) might break after a powerfailure. This could be trouble.

 

I'm prolly all off of my rocker since I don't have experience with fuges.

 

Sands

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Sands,

 

You actually dead on. When you start the fuge up "cold"...the Ph fills the inlet, then the main fuge. Since the outlet side has the higher baffle, water goes into the outlet chamber until it get above the return line. Then is "flushes" in to the main tank. Ideally, flushing "all" the air out of the line and, as you said, creating a suction. This would reach an equilibrium with the main tank. Since there is probably some air remaining, that's why the fuge outlet runs slightly higher.

 

In the event of a power failure. You need to account for the amount of water that can "backflow" into the tank. This would be the water above the return line in the outlet chamber and the water that is above the inlet tube (assuming you drilled the previously mention anti siphon hole).

 

HTH

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ahhhhh....

 

(So lets assume you put the float switch in the outlet chamber of the fuge for whatever reason). In the event of a power failure this would happen:

 

1) no more flow into fuge

2) water will siphon out of the outlet chamber's tube (apparently just the water that is above the actual line in your tank, so not too much) and then the siphon between the main tank and fuge will break.

3) the water level in the fuge (ie: the inlet chamber/main chamber/outlet chamber) will all equilize lowering the level in the outlet chamber substantially? (<-- This is what I am not sure of).

4) float switch triggers pump.

 

If that was to occur the float switch would drop and start pumping water into the main tank watering your floor but never effecting the level in the fuge??? ;)

 

That was my only concern. I like the idea of getting the switch(s) out of the main tank, but I don't think it would be terribly safe unless your monitoring the tank 24/7.

 

Sands

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If the power to the tank went out the, outlet siphon would not break, it would only be on standby, the pump connected to float switch would start pumping water continuously (assuming all power has not gone out, just power to inlet pump) in the outlet section and continue siphoning into the main tank overflowing until resevoir is empty. But if all power goes out this will not happen because top off pump will be out of power so you only have to have room for difference between outlet section and main tank surface level. And like I said before, if your rate of flow into the refuge changes, maybe debris covers intake of inlet pump or just normal stuff gunking up inside the pump, your level of water in the outlet chamber will change a slight bit as this level is determined by the inlet flow. But other people said they are doing it, so maybe this isnt a huge factor. But me I would rather be safe than sorry.

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Take a look......5th pic down

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=28245

 

You'll notice that in the event of a total power failure...the water level in the outlet will drop less than a cm, and although I've never "broke" the siphon, if it did break, that water would (in theory) go equally into the main tank and fuge, therefore rising the outlet chamber level a little. My experience....this drop isn;t enough to trigger the air pump.

 

You'll also see a "post-in" on the far left side of the fuge....I've tracked water for 2 months now and it never swings. Initially..."YES", but as the fuge matures, it will settle down...kinda like a skimmer!

 

The only problem I have is the astreas can (and do) make it into that chamber. I prefer to run the switch w/o the snail guard, because it has better action. I'm trying to figure out a way to prevent them from entering the chamber. I might just dump 6-8 LR rubble pieces in there and block them from entering. It's only happened once so far.

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