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How much does a DIY hood cost? (materials cost)


gobies

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I saw a prefab hood on clearance and I'm wondering if it's as good a deal as it seems it might be. It's $38 for a 30" canopy, black wood-stuff, about 4-6" tall, and open in the back. Its original price was well over $100.

 

For those of you who've built hoods, any size, could I even get the materials for $38? (including stain and sealer and whatnot)

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The materials for my 12 x 10 hood (inside dimensions, as it fits over the outside of the tank).

 

1 - 4' x 4" x 1/4" poplar (front and sides) ($3.50)

1 - 2' x 10" x 1" poplar (top) ($3.00)

1 - 2' x 3/4" x 3/4" pine molding (inside corners and lip) ($1.00)

 

Nails, I had, so no idea there.

 

1qt Flat Black Latex paint ($6.00)

I might get white to do the interior with.

 

Polyurethane sealer is about $6.00 for a pint, but I think I have some leftover from another project.

 

The paint and sealer should be plenty for even larger hoods, so the only real expense would be the wood sizes. I got mine by the foot, so you can scale accordingly. However, for the 1" x 10" top, at about 4' it just became cheaper to buy the whole 8' piece.

 

Grand total for mine was $13.50. If I included the things I didn't already own, it'd probably hit $21.

 

Matthew

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Average price for supplies needed and the raw wood (poplar is best) nails sand paper saws, glue, sealer brushes .... it all depends on what U have and what u need and HOW BIG the hood is. See my thread on CUSTOM MADE HOODS. Average finished price fer a 10 gal hood is around 50.00 and 140.00 for a 4 foot tank. THESE ARE FINISHED HOODS not crappy slapped together hoods... so it takes more time and better wood makes for a better long term salt resistant hood.;)

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Dave,

 

Question for ya... I have seen you talk about building hoods (yours or other peeps) and you have repeatedly stated that poplar was best. Just wondering why you say that... is just pricing and availability or is there other reasons.

 

I won't knock your reasoning on choosing poplar (well unless you tell me something that is completely and totally wrong...lol) but I am a cabinetmaker and have been for 25 years and well.....like I said, wondering why you consider it "best".

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Gobies, I would jump on that. That's a good price. You MAY save a couple dollars (literally) if you DIY, but if you consider your cost in time...

 

Pay the $38 and be done with it. Wish I had found a deal like that.

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Sir. Glazier, I find it to be the easiest wood to work with pure and simple. reasons..:

Its fairly inexpensive harder wood

does not asorb moisture and swell a huge amount

sands easily

has strong grain

routers easily

doesnt take a torque wrench to put screws in it

seals and asorbs stains and Polyurathanes nicely

has a tight grain that is less pone to splintering like Pine or Oak is.

and finally, fairly light weight and not prone to warping.

 

Inot saying its the absolute best, I wish I had the $ for mahogany..LOL (I cant even spell it right its so expensive!):D

 

You are probaly going to prove me wrong, but eh.. I need a good debate... !

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Naw Dave, come on... I said I wouldn't knock ya for your choice of poplar... afterall you did have the chance to say... "not saying it's the absolute best..."

 

You are right... it does have a very good rating for workability and finishing, buuuut I would have to argue... or as you said "debate" ya on it's dimensional stability. Actually I am not really looking fer a fight...lol And it really wouldn't be much of one, half a dozen sites come to mind that I could point you to that would give you all the info on hardwoods you could want. Poplar is considered "unstable". It is very porous and has a tendency to absorb moisture quite readily (one reason it stains so well). It has a very low specific gravity. Most hardwoods average out around .60 and softwoods at .52 and if memory serves, poplar has an SG in the very low 40's. Just an idea on it's light weight and associated porosity.

 

In smaller construction, such as nano hoods or perhaps even a bit larger it should be fine as long as it is constructed properly and sealed extremely well. I would never trust it though on any larger aquarium furniture construction though no matter how well built or finished. I could also point you to several sites that give good hard data on absorbsation of moisture in wood relative to the finish chosen. Basically what it comes down to is that the wood is going to swell or shrink when exposed to changes in humidity whether it is just waxed or has ten coats of polyester on it... it's the amount of moisture and at what speed that is effected by finish choice.

 

Okay, I have dribbled on enough....

 

Oh and Dave, you spelled mahogany right...lol Speakin' of which. If you are looking for small pieces... as in dimensions that would allow for hoods for nano's (nothing big!) I might be able to score ya some. Shop I work in builds MASSIVE furniture... as in 20 foot long dining tables, wall units 10' tall and whateeeeever wide... sooo there is always cutoffs as small pieces don't have much use around there. Shipping might be kinda spendy but maybe we could work something out... trades for whatever, you know.

 

p.s. building a pedestal stand and canopy for a 25 gallon cube out of solid mahogany. Just turned the pedestal and top and bottom plates... this part alone weighs about 40 lbs.!...lol

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Glazer,

Maybe we could meet or whatever, I am located in ChicagoLand Area Also. I would love to get a few 'scraps' to build my nano hood and Base for a 5.5g tank. If you want I have alot of stuff on e-bay right now due to a downgrade in my income and time for the fish. I am going to an all coral and invert tank so that I dont need to worry that much about em :)

 

Also want to make a beautiful SMALL ??? Tank, So if intrested give me a hit back,

FletchB)

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Hey Fletch -- do you have your 5.5g tank yet? I have four and could trade you one for a frag or chunk of LR or whatever. The tanks have been used for molly fry. I have glass covers for them, too.

 

I'm about 15 miles from you, so getting it over to you would be easy.

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Sure I have one but could use another, Come and snag a frag if you want :)

 

Need some LR and coral buy em... PLEASE!!

 

Need the cash right now thats why I am downgrading due to time school and cash :*

 

Any ways gotta sleep,

Fletch

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Glazer seyz....

 

You are right... it does have a very good rating for workability and finishing, buuuut ..... Poplar is considered "unstable". It is very porous and has a tendency to absorb moisture .... In smaller construction, such as nano hoods or perhaps even a bit larger it should be fine as long as it is constructed properly and sealed extremely well. I would never trust it though on any larger aquarium furniture construction though no matter how well built or finished........

Oh and Dave, you spelled mahogany right...lol .

 

:D HAHAHAHAH ok I wasnt sure about SP.

 

FWIW, Ive had great luck with Poplar... I built 5 Solid OAK hoods (destroying 2 sawblades in the process HAHAH) and they are sealed the same as the 10 poplar hoods I have made in the past 6 years. The poplar (which I agree do have a higher swell factor), BUT have lasted longer with less deterioration DUE to that fact, they can swell and return to a dry state without splintering from fragmenting the wood and the salt creep wont force Grain Seperation, simply swell and fill, the water will releach. I have soaked edges of hoods for creep in a FW bath fer a few hours and removed the salt (like once or twice a year and then I let it dry and reseal the edges) .. its like a 24 hour process, but all the oak hoods are perpetualy giving me problems... the Poplar... NP.... Just an IME explenation fer my resonings..

 

ALL NATURAL WOOD COMPONENTS.. on reef tanks need occasional tweeking to keep them in constant good shape.

 

Thanks fer the read and insight !g ;)

 

PS THIS IS..... Nano-reef.com HAHAHA ...so I wouldnt make tops fer 240 gal tanks out of Poplar, cause it bows and tends to shrink like U said....:D

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