Thrassian Atoll Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 So what was your water change schedule and water parameters? Has that changed at all since the decrease in GHA? If all of that was good, then I assume the flow will help get the algae to not even appear in the first place. Trying to take all precuations to make sure I do not get an algae outbreak like this. Link to comment
d0lph1n Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 So what was your water change schedule and water parameters? I use Tropic Bio-Actif Salt exclusively and usually do a 15% water change every week. Last weekend, I did a 30% water change. All the water parameters seem optimal, zero phosphates. I had them checked also by my local LFS, that's how I found out my filtered water had 120TDS. Water temp is around 78-80F. I dose the recommended Seachem Advantage Calcium Reef once or twice every week and rarely, I add few drops of Iodide. I've had some Seachem Purigen and ChemiPure Gold in the filer until I got a skimmer few months ago. Now, I replaced those with Seachem Matrix Carbon & Phosguard. I have no photos to prove that my corals are happier. For example, my bicolor hammer, when I purchased it, half was bleached. Not it's recovered 100%, extended, biggest I've seen it. The Elegance coral seems happy, when I purchased it, the purple spots were brownish, the polyps were not even extended, it seems very active. The Xenias are very happy, Chaeto is growing, I had to remove some bcz it got too big, that's when I saw a lot more dwarf brittle sea stars. The Blue Sea Star is doing fine. The Sea Urchin seems happy. Since the first day, I lost: - 1 Emerald Cyphastrea - 1 Rainbow Chypastrea (I'm not sure if it's totally lost) but the Superman Chypastrea is doing great. The Birdnest is doing fine too. Weird. There is another Purple Chyastrea that i broke it in few pieces, it's growing nicely, everyday, I might say. Check the first photo of my last post. - 1 Ricordea (bleached) I'm blaming it on strong lights. The other mushrooms are doing fine, including the Yuma. - 2-3 Turban Snails - 1 Mandarin (jumped) The male Clown fish got super sick (the clown disease) lost it's tale, in the first 2 weeks after I got it (didn't know the ocean captured ones are prone to this disease) now it's fully recovered thanks to Seachem Paraguard. Link to comment
brandon429 Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 whats your salinity Ive been suprised at reading all the high salinity tank keeper posts recently was wondering what this one is Link to comment
d0lph1n Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 whats your salinity Ive been suprised at reading all the high salinity tank keeper posts recently was wondering what this one is The salinity is 1024-1025 measured with Sybon refractometer calibrated with PinPoint Salinity Fluid. Link to comment
LRStar Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 whats your salinity Ive been suprised at reading all the high salinity tank keeper posts recently was wondering what this one is 1.025. I lose about 1 quart of water per day, before i can get home to top it off. Might creep up to 1.026 during that time. I change out 6 gallons every week. That includes the water in my canister filter. I use Red Sea Coral Pro, and test my NSW for ALK/CAL/MAG before changing. I heat my NSW to 80 degrees, and it stirs via 4 Koralia 1's for 48 hours prior to use. (koralias are spares/extras). The haze you see in the video (if you watched) is my purple up dose. It is 5ml everyday. I do not dose/add anything else. If i feel like i need to dose something, i just change the water instead. Link to comment
d0lph1n Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 1.025. I lose about 1 quart of water per day, before i can get home to top it off. Might creep up to 1.026 during that time. I change out 6 gallons every week. That includes the water in my canister filter. I use Red Sea Coral Pro, and test my NSW for ALK/CAL/MAG before changing. I heat my NSW to 80 degrees, and it stirs via 4 Koralia 1's for 48 hours prior to use. (koralias are spares/extras). My 5 gal water change includes the canister filter's water. That's more than 15% of the amount of water from 40gal tank full of LR. Maybe I should test my water more often. I use one koralia to mix the water just for 15-30 min, no heating necessary in the summer time. The salinity never passed 1026 max and 1024 min. Also, doing manual top off until better days... Back to one of your posts, I strongly believe buying LR is way overrated, I would prefer to start with dry rock, following the garf.org's recipe to make LR covered in coraline. Link to comment
BKR Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 They have red emerald crabs...I heard the average of finding one is like 1 red to a 100 green ones. yep... they sell them online...cheap like the greeners Link to comment
wartskin Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 They have red emerald crabs...I heard the average of finding one is like 1 red to a 100 green ones. No I don't think so I had 1 and the LFS usally has a couple If ya don't wanna do emeralds and hermits try a california sea hare just pass the slug on once he's done Link to comment
d0lph1n Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Added a sea hare few minutes ago. Also added a maxijet 1200 behind rocks, in the corner, under chaeto. I've mounted hydor flo rotating outlet on the powerhead, it works great so far, definately an improvement, much better flow. Waiting for a better day Link to comment
d0lph1n Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 What kind of Sea Hare do you have? Apparently there are a few Sea Hare types.. I have Dolabella Auricularia. Apparently, this one prefers Green Hair Algae. In the past 24h, it was very active, especially during night. There is so much algae that I don't see the "damage" yet. I might need one that it's specializing in Caulerpa like the Dwarf Sea Hare. I got a 2nd one. I looks like a Dolabella Auricularia but smaller and with more spikes. Both Sea Hares are very active. They spend a lot of time on rocks and caves, no so much on the glass. I can see the damage already. At least 2 rocks look much much cleaner. Link to comment
LRStar Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 yep, that looks just like the fella i had. They REALLY like the new growth, stuff. So it may be benefitial for you to remove as much by hand as possible. The Sea hare will go around and remove the short/new growth and anything else afterward. Great 1-2 punch. That particular sea hare likes bubble algae as well, so there is a bonus. :-) Link to comment
d0lph1n Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 I'm not sure I understand, my Dolabella Auricularia looks like this: Does your sea slug look more like this one: or like these ones: http://www.bluezooaquatics.com/search.asp According to http://www.seaslugforum.net/specieslist.htm both belong to the FAMILY Aplysiidae Link to comment
LRStar Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 looks just like the first photo there. Has the satellite dish rear end and same colors. Link to comment
d0lph1n Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Great. I will send one back to LFS and order one Aplysia spp. (Dwarf or Spotted Sea Hare). According to liveaquaria, this one eats Caulerpa too.It got me very interested. Apparently, according to other posts, the dish rear one also eats Caulerpa. Time will tell. Link to comment
lohitha Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Not sure if you have tried this. Do a 3 day blackout. Most of the GHA will die. You have to do a good water change on the 4th day. Link to comment
d0lph1n Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 usually, I do that every month, but it's not too effective because there a skylite above the tank, also in the tank's room/hall there are 6 daylight bulbs that are on every day after 6pm until 8-10pm. Link to comment
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