Jump to content
Innovative Marine Aquariums

Cycling issue..


ferpayson

Recommended Posts

I started cycling my tank 2/22/11 I've since then have had my Ammonia spike but have not seen anything happening with my Nitrite spike, or Nitrate.

 

My tank has been cycling for 28 days...

 

I have been keeping a notebook with my information on when I've tested:

 

2/22/11

pH- 8.0

Nitrite- 0 ppm

Nitrate- 0 ppm

Ammonia- 0 ppm

 

2-23-11

pH- 8.0

Nitrate- 0 ppm

Nitrite- 0 ppm

Ammonia- 0ppm

 

3-1-11

pH- 7.8

Nitrite- 0 ppm

Ammonia- 0.25 ppm

Nitrate- 0 ppm

 

3-10-11

Nitrite- 0 ppm

Nitrate- 0 ppm

Ammonia- 0 ppm

 

3-16-11

Nitrite- 0 ppm

nitrate 0 ppm

Ammonia 0 ppm

 

3-20-11

Nitrite - 0 ppm

Ammonia- 0 ppm

Nitrate - 0ppm

 

3-22-11

Nitrite- 0 ppm

Ammonia- 0 ppm

Nitrite- 0 ppm

pH- 8.0

 

I'm concerned that my Nitrites havent risen yet nor my Nitrates.. I might just not to wait a little longer or I've done somthing wrong.

 

I have a 7.5G 12x12x12 cube.

I'm running a 240mph filter, my Aqua clear 70 filter (With nothing in it, just to increase flow), heater set at 79 degrees, Salinity 1.022, I have 9 lbs of cured live rock.

 

My lights stay on for 4-5 hours a day, just to keep whatever is on the rock alive.

 

I'm pretty sure this is only me not being patient but I'm 16 so what can I say. =P

 

 

If you'd like to see my tank you can check out my YouTube channel below.

 

Thanks alot everyone,

Brenden

Link to comment

I think your tank has established its cycle and you should be good to go. Just add things slowly. Don't worry that you don't have nitrate. Just wondering...what test kit are you using?

Link to comment
I think your tank has established its cycle and you should be good to go. Just add things slowly. Don't worry that you don't have nitrate. Just wondering...what test kit are you using?

 

API Saltwater master, and API Reef master.

 

I know they arnt the best I just dont know of any other accurate Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, and pH. =P

 

I might take my water to my LFS and see if they will test it and tell me if I'm in the green for adding snails and hermits.

 

Thanks,

Brenden

Link to comment

Id say as long as there's no visible die-off just get your params checked at your LFS and if theyre indeed okay youre good to go on a CUC

Link to comment

Gotta agree with seabass, just get your parameters checked at your LFS and if they match up they you are good to go. If you get good rock sometimes you won't see any kind of cycle at all.

Link to comment
Gotta agree with seabass, just get your parameters checked at your LFS and if they match up they you are good to go. If you get good rock sometimes you won't see any kind of cycle at all.

 

Well I saw an Ammonia spike but that was it....

 

I was told by my LFS it was very high quality rock, Fiji LR.

 

I will bring my water to the LFS hopefully tomorrow and see if my water is right for adding things in.

 

I dont see anymore die off, so I think im pretty good to go.

 

I had quite a bit of dieatoms that are mostly gone I would say 80% is completely gone!

 

If there is anything else I should try or use please post it.

 

Thanks,

Brenden

Link to comment
What's in the tank besides LR?

 

Any fish or livestock?

 

Just amphipods, 1 snail, and a starfish. None were bought all hitchhikers.

Link to comment

Without the presence of a bio-load or decaying matter a tank won't cycle. A single snail won't produce enough ammonia to even show up on a test kit. A dozen snails *might*.

 

If LR is purchased from a tank with a good bio-load in it, then that rock will have enough bacteria growing on it to often not even bother cycling. LR bought from a tank with no fish in it often needs to ramp up because there will be little bacteria on it.

 

The unofficial rule we follow around here is after your tank is stocked with LR and sand, wait two weeks and check ammonia levels. This ammonai will be the result of die off from moving the rock and might be zero, or a trace. All tanks differ. However, you won't see a lot of ammonia because you'd need a huge die off to produce it, and a huge die-off means something is wrong.

 

If after that two week period ammonia is zero, then it's ok to start adding basic live stock, particularly a reasonably hardy fish or invert (shrimp). At this point your tank might mini-cycle a bit, but if your LR was healthy to begin with any 'cycling' will be short and undramatic. Just watch your ammonia levels, and if it still stays at zero after another couple of weeks then move forward.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recommended Discussions

×
×
  • Create New...