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RO vsDI


LMillar

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So I went my lfs to enquire about their RO/DI units, as im after one to fight the cyno in my pico. The guy told me that a DI only unit would suffice. Obviously a combined RO and DI unit would be best, but down in my little part of the world the cheapest I can lay my hands on is around $600-$700. So I thought raid all your brains and get your opinions on the two differents forms of water purification, what you use/ what you prefur?

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So I went my lfs to enquire about their RO/DI units, as im after one to fight the cyno in my pico. The guy told me that a DI only unit would suffice. Obviously a combined RO and DI unit would be best, but down in my little part of the world the cheapest I can lay my hands on is around $600-$700. So I thought raid all your brains and get your opinions on the two differents forms of water purification, what you use/ what you prefur?

 

They're trying to rape you.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Reef-Aquarium-RO-DI-Re...f#ht_8034wt_915

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I cannot show you proof, but I swear I have seen some of the RO/DI sponsors of this site willing to ship internationally. I would send an email to the guys over at http://spectrapure.com/ to see if they will ship to you. It will be way less than 600-700 hundred bucks :). Stoke their ego by saying how many good things you always hear about them on this forum.

 

Also, you will get a lot more responses if you ask this question in the "Water Chemistry" sun-forum.

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Basically the RO (reverse osmosis) part of the unit pre-filters the water pretty clean and then the DI filter polishes it off to be ultra clean.

 

You can run one with out the other. The only downfall to not running an RO unit before the DI filter, is that you may have to replace the resin more often. Since you are only making water for a pico though, you probably wont use all that much water, so that may work out just fine.

 

Are you sure your water is the cause of the cyano? Often times it's a combination of poor water circulation and high nutrient levels. Might take a look at how much water flow you have too.

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wow thanks heaps! i wasnt expecting so much good advice. Yea I thought they might be trying to rip me off. Im pretty sure is the cause of my cyano as i only use tap water (no one sells RO/DI water down here) but I thought is a good thing to invest in anyway. Ill definately check out those websites and suppliers, id rather spend my money on more fish :D

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I have used the API tap water filter since I started my tank and have had great results. I had a cyano issue at one point and it was onset by me deciding to get free RODI water from my lfs. I used their water and had an issue for about a month and a half. Tried more flow/less nutrients to no avail. Once I switched over to my API again it was gone in a matter of days. It's a great filter and cost $60, I'd highly recommend it. I've also tested my water after filtration and it reads 0 TDS.

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AZDesertRat

In most cases the API tap water filter makes 15 to a maximum of 30 gallons of water per cartridge. I assume you do not have a TDS meter and therefore do not know what the TDS of the water in and out are? You might be disappointed when you do get or borrow a TDS meter, the API is not what you think it is. They get very expensive very quick if used properly, you also want the TDS meter as DI resins release TDS back in to the treated water even before they are com,pletely exhausted and in much larger quantities thatn it was in the tap water to begin with since it has been storing it up.

I strongly urge you to get your hands on a TDS meter to prove out what I am telling you for yourself. The only way it will read 0 TDS is with a fresh cartridge and mere trickle of a flow, not much more than a drip since it requires contact time with what little media they contain.

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