What did I do wrong?

[Road_Runner]

My tank is fully cycled with zero ammonia and nitrites (took about 6 weeks). I have LR with Florida crushed coral substrate. This is a 10g nano btw. My LR has patches of coralline algae. I want to accelerate the corraline algae growth and prepare the tank for corals. I had decided kalk seemed too problematic based on effects it could have on ph and what not, so decided to start dosing with SeaChem Reef Advantage calcium. I chose this route because it seemed like a good "beginner" route to go. I tested my alkalinity and measured 10dh. SG is 1.024, PH is 8.4 and calcium was 240 ppm (first time tested and was surprised it was so low).

 

I added the recommended dose to a gallon of make up water, and started to add it a bit at a time. I've got like filmy "splotches" floating around the top of the water now (is this precipitation?)

 

Also, my formerly jet black domino damsel is suddenly covered with white spots. I know he ws clean just before I added the calcium. What did I do wrong?

[Tempest]

Not really sure. Check your magnesium levels. Sounds like something precipitated out. Did the calcium go up and alk down. If so I wouldn't worry. A good place to get answers to chemistry questions is at www.Reefcentral.com . They have a great chemistry forum. A decent article on calcium and alkalinity can be found at http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov...ov2002/chem.htm .

[Acoustic]

I found two problems:

 

1) Florida crushed coral substrate

2) Damsel

 

On to the calcium thing...............

 

I don't know if you knew this but everything I have read about calcium to a reef-tank besides B-Ionic needs to be added to freashwater and then dosed to the tank in small increments.

[Isaka]

double that, ditch the crushed coral for LS while you can. Also, after you finish your cycle you should do a sizable water change (25% at least) and then start 10% weekly water changes. You should not be needing to dose anything into a tank with just LR and a Damnsel (yes i meant to spell it like that!)

[UNCCwill]

alright, i have to ask the stupid question, what is wrong with using crushed coral? (advantages and disadvantages of CC vs LS?)

[undawahta]

If you think its a stupid question, best idea is to

 

But I'll save you the hassle since I'm in a good mood. I believe the great debate comes down to surface area. Southdown, being smaller with many more particles, has a much greater surface area to host beneficial bacteria.

 

To discover the more grey areas of debate,

[Angry_Babs]

Someone told me to change from coral to sand. I did that because I read that the sand is better for a number of reasons:

 

1. You get sand shifting/sifting critters and vaccuming is a thing of the past. Most people tell you to NOT sift your sandbed around with a vaccum.

 

2. Coral will hurt sand sifters, being that they can't pass the particles because they are too big. And it is sharp.

 

3. Surface area: More actual sand particles, versus more air in between coral particles, makes it's bacteria housing capabilites higher.

 

4. It has a higher buffering capacity.

 

5. IT LOOKS much better. Thats what I liked. The sand has a much better astetic qualities to me. I used Fiji. It's pink in the bag, but white in the tank. Groovy.

 

I took the perfect opportunity of my heater exploding on me to drain the tank to nothing and remove the coral... pretty much had too.

[Isaka]

lets see if i can put this into words correctly.... crushed coral is quit a bit bigger than sand, so there is space for waste to fall through and settle in. with crushed coral substrate you cant really keep things stirred up (most critters that sand sift wont be able to move the stuff). this in turn will lead to build ups of waste and other crap that can lead to increasing nitrates over time.

[mattie]

crushed coral is not bad it just requires more up-keep (siphon sand when you do water changes) if you make it shallow like 1/2 inch it will be fine and if you have live rosk you will have live sand in a few weeks

 

i like the look of fine sand in the tank too, but i have used crushed coral for years w/o any problems

 

the reef advantage from seachem is good stuff easy to use but will not mix well if added directly to the tank or saltwater or if added with 30 min before or after Buffer. I assume that makeup water is R/O fresh water just mix wait for it to be fully dissolved and add to the tank

 

for a 10 i would mix 1 cup of r/o water to 1/2 a tbls one day then add buffer the next and test every few days to find a good balance then test less often after you have discovered your tanks total Ca uptake

[LITTLEFISHEE]

I agree with Acoustic and Isaka, lose the crushed coral. I also don't understand why you have a damsel in a small tank as the first fish. They usually become aggressive and will bully any new fish you put in there unless it's equally aggressive or nastier. I have never had problems with dosing kalkwasser, the key is not to overdose, that's when you get pH problems. It's also a good idea to directly add it to your top off water, that way it's so dilluted it's not so stressfull to your system.

[maroonclown]

Guys. try reading this years Marine Fish and Reef Annual. They have a section that on sandbeds that disproves DSBs and sugar sized sand. Most of the de-nitrifying bacteria are found at less than an inch. Fine sand would have more surface area than coarse sand if sand was spherical. Because it's not, there is very little difference in the surface areas. Also, more organisms are found closer to the surface and in coarser sands. I am not saying finer sands are bad, because they too have a place in aquariums. If I were you, I would remove about half of your coral sand, and replace it with live sand or aragonite.

[discusking86]

looks like it might be ich. Sometimes calcium additives or buffers can cause werid things to happen to your water. I personally use kent with no problems. Good luck.

[maroonclown]

I just dose a cocktail of kalkwasser, iodine, and strontium. works great.