Am I forgetting anything?

[DHodges34]

Hey everyone, I had a 45G hex for about a year which I took down almost a year ago for financial reasons. A couple months ago I got the itch again, bad, so I'm setting up a 10G nano. I just want to make sure I'm not forgetting anything this time around. I've got all my hardware I'm just putting everything together and hope to get everything up and running by next week.

 

- 10G drilled display

- 10G sump

- CSL 96W PC retro kit in DIY hood

- Maxijet 1200 for return (3 ft of head and a SQWD)

- SQWD in return line

- Aquaclear Filter (I can't remember which one exactly

- LR Rubble in the sump

- 1/2" or less Sandbed in Display

- 8-15# LR in display (haven't decided quantity yet)

 

After letting the system run with freshwater for a day or so to make sure there are no leaks, I plan on putting the sand and LR in and waiting a week before putting snails/hermits, and then just keep testing to wait on the cycle)

 

I plan to keep various softies and LPS, as well as 2 clowns and one other fish (possible a goby of some sort), a skunk cleaner shrimp and 3 sexy shrimp.

 

Does it sound like I've left anything out? I live in Florida so a heater shouldn't be an issue yet, but I'm moving to NC in 3 months so I'll have one then.

 

Thanks everyone for your feedback and advice.

 

- Daniel

[tinyreef]

still think you need a heater, it can get cold at night. maybe an acrylic tank can hold the day's heat long enough but not a glass with sump ime.

 

auto top-off would be good too. so would a skimmer but that's 50/50 around here. hth

[DHodges34]

ok thanks, I appreciate it.

 

yeah auto top-off was something I was thinking about, I'll probably set it up somewhere along the line.

 

and thanks for the advice on the heater, I think I might have one lying around, might as well put it to use!

[Aiptasia]

Umm, you're moving in 3 months?

 

Are you taking the tank with you? If so, hold off and don't start this project until you move into your new place in N.C.

 

As far as your equipment goes, interesting that you found a pre-plummed 10g. display tank. The light should be o.k. and the maxi-jet should be fine. I'd ditch the aqua clear filter completely because it's going to be a nitrate producing machine. Here's what i'd suggest:

 

1) Going with a 3-4" layer of sand, so that you have a natural low oxyegnated water zone for dentrification (natural nitrate reduction), in the main tank.

 

2) Cutting back on the LR rubble in the sump. Two or three baseball sized pieces are ok.

 

3) Turning your sump into a refugium, complete with 3" layer of sand, live rock chunks and Dissolved Organic Compound loving algaes or even a mangrove pod, to:

 

a) remove toxic nitrate,

provide a haven free of predation for zooplankton and,

c) provide a constantly renewable source of fresh zooplankton as they breed (copepods, etc.)

 

4) possibly consider installing a small skimmer in the sump.

 

If you went with the refugium, you probably wouldn't need the skimmer. If you keep the refugium underneath the tank (in a closed tank stand, for example) you can even put a small 20 watt flourescent light over it with a full spectrum daylight bulb and let it run 24/7 to keep those algaes growing constantly.

 

The idea is, the DOC algaes will feed on the nitrate, and you simply cut back the new growth once a week and toss it out in the garbage. If it's constantly growing and scavenging for nitrate, you have a Natural Nitrate Reduction (NNR) algae filter, also known as an algae scrubber. The smithsonian aquarium does this type of filtration.

 

The denitrifying sandbeds (with or without a plenum) are useful in that they foster the growth of bacteria that will eat nitrate and transform it into harmless nitrogen gas. You need a coarse sandbed (not sugar sand, more like carib-sea's seafloor special grade) that isn't too deep. If it's too deep, anoxic bacteria can set in and create hydrogen sulphide (swamp gas), which is toxic to the reef. This natural dentrification zone will also help rid you of nitrate buildup.

 

But this is all moot. Don't set everything up and then have to break it all back down in 3 months. Also, i'd go light on the fish. They are ammonia machines, which means you'll have more nitrate to deal with in the long run. Shrimps, even cleaners, can also be a problem with delicate corals if they start picking at them. If it were me, i'd keep one clown, a damselfish or a bicolor blenny in that tank, and maybe a brittlestar, other than my janitor crew, and that's all.

[DHodges34]

Yeah I've thought about how big a pain it might be to move the tank in April, but I think I can do it. I moved my 45G across town twice in a month (had to move it to my friends house while waiting on a new apartment to become available) and had no problems. I know it's going to be a challenge, but I figure in 3 months (it's actually 2 now, dang it's coming up quick!) I'll only have a few shrooms/corals and only 1 fish.

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm not disagreeing with you, if someone asked me for advice I'd be telling them the same thing you told me. But in a strange way I think the upcoming move will help keep me from rushing things, since I'll know that everything I put into the tank will have to be broken down, etc.

 

But on to the specifics of the tank, I want to ask you about a few of the suggestions you gave:

 

1. 3-4" of sand - Is this shallow enough to keep the bad things I've read about in DSB's from happening? I might have misunderstood the things I read, I was actually thinking about doing something similar to Bomber's Starboard Reef over on Reefcentral, but thought since I already have plenty of sand (kept it from the 45G) that I'd just put some in there for aesthetics. Sorry if I'm a little ignorant on the sand issue, but I'd appreciate it if you could explain a little more......it seems like most of what I've been seeing people do is either a 5-6" DSB or little to no sand at all.

 

2. I was planning on getting some golfball size pieces, but I will take your advice and look for a little larger.

 

3. I have my sump divided into 3 compartments, one for the overflow, then the middle for the LR rubble (or refugium if I choose to adopt that method) and then a third for the return pump. Would I need to further compartmentalize (is that even a word?) to do what you mentioned with the algaes, etc.?

 

4. I have a Prizm skimmer, do you think it would be worth it to put it on? I guess it couldn't hurt.

 

Yes the sump/fuge is in a stand I built, so I could light it. Right now I just have a little halogen bulb that I bought from Home Depot so I can see what I'm doing, but I assume I'd need more than this?

 

Oh, and I drilled the tank myself ....it was fun My idea with this tank is to set it up like a big tank, with plumbing and a sump, etc. etc. so that when I can afford my dream tank I'll have some knowledge of the plumbing end of it. Like I said, I like a challenge

 

Thanks so much for your detailed help, I really appreciate it, it's people like you who make these boards such a success!

 

- Daniel

[Aiptasia]

1) depends if a plenum is involved or not. The trick is, create the sandbed deep enough to encourage bacteria to feed on the nitrate without going completely anoxic and producing hydrogen sulphide gas. You can do this with a 3"-5" sand layer, or a deeper layer with a plenum. I wouldn't go over 7" myself even with a plenum. The NNR takes place right at the cusp of the low oxygen zone. Too deep and you have toxic swamp gas, and need to take an inch or two of the layering off. Too shallow and the nitrates won't be reduced to nitrogen gas and you need to go an inch or two deeper. Use your nose and smell the tank. Hydrogen sulphide gas is rancid and hard to mistake. If it does develop, remove some sand as best you can. If you have a plenum made from a UGF filter, you can use an oversized artists syringe to draw out wastewater from the plenum and suck more oxygenated water into the area for a fast fix.

 

2) works for me.

 

3) Not much, just make sure that there's an overflow wall on either side of the pump and return so that the algaes, sand, LR can't be sucked back into the main display tank. You can use eggcrate material to put up a barrier or silicone glue in some plexi if you think you need it.

 

4) It can't hurt so long as you're willing to suppliment trace minerals and iodide back into the tank. I'd only crank up the skimmer once the tank has cycled and the LR has cured. It will prevent the nitrogen cycle from "stalling". Other than that, sure go ahead and use it.

 

5) Yes and no. You can use one of the low wattage full spectrum twisty type compact flourescents. They even make them in 50/50 bulbs now, and your LFS might have them or you can order them online. They screw right into a regular llightsocket, or you could light it with a 20-40 watt full spectrum flourescent if you wanted to upgrade.

 

I was going to ask about the pre-drilling. Woohoo! Hehe.

[Arson]

Wow, Aiptasia. I've read quite a few of your posts. Where did you learn so much?