Help With My Water Parameters!!

[slickchick]

Here are my parameters:

 

Ammonia = 0

Nitrites = 0

Nitrates = 0

KH = 19 which means my ALK = 6.79

CALCIUM = 300

pH = 8.0 in the morning

 

My LFS told me to dose with B-Ionic every day to help raise my morning pH a little and increase calcium. I think I am at my saturation point with the B-ionic stuff because the last time I added it, I got snow. It was not raising my calcium at all (it stayed at 350) while my alk kept getting higher and higher. I was also told to use Kent Superbuffer and that didn't increase pH or calcium.

 

I was also told to use Argamilk and that hasn't brought up my calcium either.

 

What can I add to get my pH up and calcium without raising my alk?

 

Tell me what to dose with!!

 

Thanks!!

[Aiptasia]

Actually, I think your alkalinity is way too high and causing calcium to precipitate out of solution as the "snow" you so accurately describe.

 

You want to strive for a range between 2.5 to 5.0 meq/L, or roughly 6-12 dKH. Yours is about 19 according to your post. That's way too high.

 

Alkalinity and bio-available calcium levels are mutually exclusive. The problem is, yours is so high that calcium is precipitating out of solution.

 

What you need to do is a multi-step water change to correct the problem and restore a little balance to the tank. Next, spend the money on some good test kits that monitor alkalinity and calcium levels separately.

 

BTW, here's a link to a great description of a multi-step water change:

 

http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/nitrateco.../l/aa091901.htm

[slickchick]

Thanks for your reply. I thought that the problem was too high ALK and that was why I couldn't get the calcium up. I just wasn't sure and the LFS said the ALK was fine...so I doubted myself.

 

I have a separate calcium and KH test...to get the ALK from KH I divide by 2.8 (as per author Tullock in "Natural Reef Aquariums"). Is this too inaccurate?

 

Also, I have a phospad in the back...is this taking out trace minerals that I am adding?

 

As far as a multi-step water change...I am scared to take out almost all the water and leave only 2 gallons...then add 2 more gallons...take out 2 gallons...add 2 more then take out 2 more and then fill it up.

 

Maybe I should do 50% changes every other day for a week?

 

Help!!

[Aiptasia]

I have tests for carbonate hardness (dKH), Alkalinity and calcium, although you can probably follow Tullock's formula just fine.

 

I'm not sure what to say about the phosphate pad. It's possible that it can be scavenging other substances from the water than just phosphate. First, test the water for a high presence of phosphate and remove the pad if they aren't a concern. I use RO water with a supplimental deionization cati/ani filter, and it removes 99.5% of everything from the water, including phosphates and silicates. Investing in one has helped my tanks greatly, and they make bare bones RO systems with a TFC membrane for $80 bucks that will hook up to a garden hose. It's a cheaper option than buying RO/DI or distilled water off the shelf at the grocery store. Remember, the purer the water, the happier the reef will be. What's safe for human consumption isn't necessarily safe for your reef.

 

If your phosphates are still high, Kent marine makes an excellent phosphate adsorber that won't scavenge for other substances, and also will not leach anything back into the water. The drawback is that you have to put it in a mesh bag and then force water though it through a filter. If you have a skimmer that has a media basket, this is ideal, or you can even use a hang-on filter in a pinch.

 

Doing a 50% water change every other day would also be fine to help get the alkalinity down. Depends if you think it would be more of a shock to the system to do the multi-step on one day and let the tank recover, or do several smaller shocks to the system. Either way, there's going to be stress involved.

 

BTW, use your additives sparingly. After these water changes, you'll probably not need any additives for a couple of weeks at least. If you're using a skimmer, you may have to add some trace suppliments (iodide), but that's all i'd use.