18GalNano Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 I just pruchased a 18 gallon acrylic cube, I had a 29 gallon glass before that. The dimensions of the cube are 15"x15"x15" with 3" in the back for filtration. I know my best and I think only bet is to go with PCs. I was wondering how many and total wattage, colors, etc? Also where teh best place to get the lights from is. When I get it up an drunning I will post pics. Thanks in advance for the help. Link to comment
qfour20 Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 Well... if you only have 15" to work with, and the tank is 15" deep, PC's won't cut it for more light-loving specimens. The drop in intensity with that kind of depth might require a more powerful light source. It sounds like a perfect fit for a 150w Mh, or even a 70w. Look around here, and the DIY forum, and you can see all manner of things that can be done for your tank. -q Link to comment
18GalNano Posted February 2, 2004 Author Share Posted February 2, 2004 I was thinking MH but the Hood is Acrylic too so the heat from the light will mess up the hood. I was thinking of a 4x18w system for a total of 72 watts what do you think? Link to comment
qfour20 Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 Well, if you're planning on keeping the hood that came with it, then you probabbly won't have very good luck with a metal halide:D It all comes down to "What do you want to keep in your nano?" Please be forewarned that clams and sps are DEAD SEXY (imo), and very difficult to avoid. Also, depending on how the hood and tank are constructed, you might have heat problems (not melting the hood, but making the tank really hot) if the pc's are really close to the water. An open top tank, or a custom hood (usually a little on the tall side) are the best options in my opinion. Now, if you're just wanting to get your tank going, then by all means, 72w should be enough to start with. Just beware of the incremental upgrades. I costs you a *lot* down the road. Just my $.02. Hope this helps! -q Link to comment
qfour20 Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 By the way... that tank sounds really neat. Who's it made by? Got pics? Glass or acrylic? *EDIT: DERP! You said it was acrylic. I need more coffee* -q Link to comment
18GalNano Posted February 2, 2004 Author Share Posted February 2, 2004 I got it off Ebay, do a search for mini-reef, it is made by "acrylicman" they go for roughly $190-$200. I was also looking into 3x28watts, or would that be too much. I don't know if you can have too much power. Link to comment
qfour20 Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 3x28 would be a really good start. It *is* possible to have too much light, but it's not very easy to do with PC's. Again, I would urge you to consider a metal halide. Don't mean to be pushy about it, but from what I've read and seen (haven't finished my hood yet, so I can't give my own experiences.... back me up here, people) metal halide provides more useable (PAR) light per watt than other lighting. In short, this would mean that 70w PC <> 70w Mh. If you want to keep the clean look of the tank, then maybe a custom hood could be made? If you're really determined, you could sand and bondo up the hood when it's assembled, and put a really nice laquer on it with some poly on the outside to make it come out looking close to the acrylic hood that came with the tank. Then again, if softies are all you're after, the PC lighting should be just fine. I would definitely look into all of your options. And considering the form factor (15" x 15"), you might want to consider 1x96w powerquad daylight, **EDIT: DUHHHH.... didn't look closely at the dimensions of the 96w powerquad. Too long for your 15" tank. Sorry.** with 2x28w (or whatever size fits) actinic for supplement. This way, the daylight and the actinics would be on seperate switches, which allows you to view the tank under actinic only (very neat). Good luck! -q Link to comment
18GalNano Posted February 2, 2004 Author Share Posted February 2, 2004 Thnak you once again. I was looking into my options, 2x28w would do nice 2 daylight and 1 actinic, or I could do a 2x28w day and a 13w actinic. I am thinking the 3x28 might work best, then again what do you think? Do I need any type of lighting in the rear 3"? Link to comment
18GalNano Posted February 2, 2004 Author Share Posted February 2, 2004 Another question should I go with 10,000k for both or mix it up? Link to comment
18GalNano Posted February 2, 2004 Author Share Posted February 2, 2004 Once again another question, what about a time cycle. What should that be like? ie, when the lights go on and off. Link to comment
qfour20 Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 Depends on the layout and what you intend to do with the rear. I'll make a few assumptions and tell you what I would do. I am assuming: 1. You are using the rear as a refugium 2. The rear part of the tank can be isolated from light in the front, and vice versa 3. You're willing to throw down the dough to do it right the first time I would go for the 3x28w over the front portion of the tank. I would go for 1x daylight and 2x actinic, but I really like the look of actinic. You could do this the other way around, or no actinic at all, if that's what you want. I would definitely suggest at least *some* actinic. I would then get a 13w "daylight" bulb for the fuge in the back, and set it up so that the light in the fuge is on when the main tank lights are off. This will help to even out any ph swings in the tank. I don't know if you will have enough room in the front for 3x28w, but I would recommend that you try. For an easy way to scale this (if you're not able to pick up all the lighting at once) would be to get the 13w for the fuge, and 1x28w daylight right now. Get the rock and sand going under the lesser light. Get your clean up crew in and going, maybe even get a few mushrooms. Then go back and get a 2x28w kit (as I said, I would go for 2x actinic, but you could order one of each and swap bulbs) so that you have the actinic(s) on a seperate switch. Hope this helps. -q Link to comment
qfour20 Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 As for light cycle, my suggestion would be to start with 8hours of light in the display tank (during cycling). Hair algae LOVES long photoperiods. Keep the fuge lights running opposite the tank (they can overlap some). The most important thing is that the fuge be lit during the last few hours of darkness for the display tank. This is when the ph drops the most, and having a lit fuge would give you the most benefit. Also, in the interest of preventing hair algae, get some macro in the fuge. I would suggest chaetomorpha caelurpa (razor caelurpa, spiky crap, whatever you wanna call it). Grows fast, exports nitrates and phosphates quickly, and will outcompete hair algae for nutrients well. Just be SURE that you keep it trimmed back. If it is allowed to grow freely, it will eventually "go sexual", which is a big mess. -q Link to comment
18GalNano Posted February 2, 2004 Author Share Posted February 2, 2004 So I could get by with 2 actinic and one daylight? I like the look of the actinic also, so having 2 will have no negative effects on the tank life? Link to comment
qfour20 Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 Others would disagree with me, but blue light makes it further down in the ocean than any other color, so having more actinic makes sense to me. And hey, let's not fool ourselves.... we keep tanks because we like to look at them. I REALLY like the look of actinic lighting, so the look that I'm going for is part of the fundemental reason I keep a tank. By the way, have you looked around at what actual hardware you're wanting to run? Hellolights.com has great products, prices and service, and I would recommend them. Be sure to post pics when all is said and done! -q Link to comment
18GalNano Posted February 2, 2004 Author Share Posted February 2, 2004 Hellolights is where I was going to buy from. They have great prices, and the products don't look bad either. Link to comment
18GalNano Posted February 2, 2004 Author Share Posted February 2, 2004 What would be the best way to set the rear up as a fuge? Link to comment
GSXR1000 Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 That tank is hella nice i just seen it on ebay it is such a good deal it even comes with the hood thats black im getting one thanks for the advice. Im gonna decide what im putting in mine for lights and get back to you later tonight. By the way im deff putting powercompacts so ill let you know. Link to comment
DSparks Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 Yes, I just checked out the 25 gallon version (I think it's a bit wider than the 18). Man, I just setup my 10, and after all the money I spent on getting the DIY stuff going, I could have bought this tank. Add lights and powerheads and you're off. Oh yeah, I guess you need water and rock too, lol. Link to comment
wingsfan Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 Gfour20 do you think 260 watt of pc's are too much for a 20 long? I got a deal on a 4x65 jbj retro I was going to use over my 20 long and some people have told me it might be too much , that I might bleach some of the corals I put in there. Link to comment
qfour20 Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 Can't say that I would know for sure, but hey, if it does end up being too much, you have several options: Shorten your photoperiod Remove a bulb Raise the hood If you do end up having to do those soft of actions, you could also just put an older bulb in one of the spots on the hood (I would use an old actinic... that way you won't be encouraging nusiance algae as much). The older bulb would put out less light, and so on. Hope this helps. Oh, and *I* wouldn't think that this would be too much light. Acros under pc, baby! -q Link to comment
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