jfarabaugh Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 So after looking at this thread and thinking about your feedback I have decided to try the following layout. I am going to start out with all warm white because I already have them (the left hand arrangement). I figure once I see the result I can decide whether to add some cool white. I am using Cree XPG's for the whites which have a max current of 1.5A so they will be on one driver. The RB will be on a second driver. I am fairly sure, based on the feedback on this thread that I should put the Blue (or Turquoise) on a third driver as a little goes a long way. This leaves the Deep Reds, and True Violets. I am looking for advice on which driver to tie these to. I would really like to not add a 4th driver if I can. Thanks, Mark I can speak from experience that you wont even notice your TVs compared to that many LEDS Link to comment
jfarabaugh Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Not sure if this has been asked, but who all are running Tv's over their tanks? Just asking cuz I wanted to check out pics of tanks running true violets. I run them but they can be overpowered very quickly. They are hard to take pictures of but the color pop they can produce is awesome. He is a old video of my tank with 6 TV running... My next setup will have 12+ Link to comment
basser1 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 In all its glory! CW,NW,DR are in a series. I found this to be the best way to run them without a million drivers. The Blue, Royal blues are also in series together. This combo looks incredible and is by far the easiest thing to wire. The modules can also be ran in a parallel with each other for monster builds. Using a Burquest Gap Pad instead of messy thermal grease/epoxy or thermal tape. This stuff is extremely easy to use and also can be pulled off easily if needed. The overall size is 2.9"x1.5". Enjoy! -Dave Will this wok for my build you are doing for me?? Link to comment
marc111 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 I can speak from experience that you wont even notice your TVs compared to that many LEDS Thanks. I was wondering about that too. How many TV's do you think would be needed to notice an effect? 4? 8? 12? and what would you replace with them? Mark Link to comment
jfarabaugh Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Thanks. I was wondering about that too. How many TV's do you think would be needed to notice an effect?4? 8? 12? and what would you replace with them? Mark I am about to begin a 60 LED build and so far I plan to have 12 TVs. All my colors will be on separate channels so I will have total control. IMO I would rather have too many leds than not enough. I can always dim them.... but that is just how I think. Link to comment
halcyonism Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Thanks. I was wondering about that too. How many TV's do you think would be needed to notice an effect?4? 8? 12? and what would you replace with them? Mark I have 6 TVs over one half of my 120g and I think it is about right. Funny thing is that you really don't even notice what they do for the greens until they are the only channel that is lit. Link to comment
marc111 Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I have 6 TVs over one half of my 120g and I think it is about right. Funny thing is that you really don't even notice what they do for the greens until they are the only channel that is lit. Thanks for the feedback guys. I will take this into account. Might have to add a few more LED's to the build. Mark Link to comment
marc111 Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 OK, so one last question before I just build it. My tank is 24 in wide by 72 in long by 32 in high. I will have a lot of SPS. There will be (3) 49 LED banks over the tank. The Royal Blues and Whites will have 40 or 60 deg optics for penetration. The question: For the fill in exotics like blue/turquoise, Deep Red and True Violet, should they also be 60 deg optics or should these be wider 120 deg optics. Appreciate some feedback. Thanks, Mark Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 OK, so one last question before I just build it. My tank is 24 in wide by 72 in long by 32 in high. I will have a lot of SPS. There will be (3) 49 LED banks over the tank. The Royal Blues and Whites will have 40 or 60 deg optics for penetration. The question: For the fill in exotics like blue/turquoise, Deep Red and True Violet, should they also be 60 deg optics or should these be wider 120 deg optics. Appreciate some feedback. Thanks, Mark For a 32" high tank you're going to want to use 40 degree optics on the main arrays. LEDs are very powerful, but 32 inches is a very deep tank. I'd probably go with 60 degree optics on the non-standard LEDs. You could do the 120 degree optics, but you'll have to know that the deep reds in particular will be very weak especially deeper in the tank. Red is the first color to be filtered out by water (though at 32" it won't filter much). Link to comment
Reefolymia Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Sorry to jump in here, but how do I know when I have blown my driver? I plugged them in the first time and nothing happened. I resoldered a few joints, plugged it in and voila. I then put the optics on but a couple could not fit because the solder was blocking them so I melted the edge off so it was a little tightier. Then I plugged it in again and the lights dimmly came on and then faded away. What does this mean? Did I just loose the driver, the LEDs, both? I rechecked all joints and found no obvious problems but I resoldered anyways. Link to comment
Trick Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 In all its glory! CW,NW,DR are in a series. I found this to be the best way to run them without a million drivers. The Blue, Royal blues are also in series together. This combo looks incredible and is by far the easiest thing to wire. The modules can also be ran in a parallel with each other for monster builds. Using a Burquest Gap Pad instead of messy thermal grease/epoxy or thermal tape. This stuff is extremely easy to use and also can be pulled off easily if needed. The overall size is 2.9"x1.5". Enjoy! -Dave Does it have to be screwed into the heatsink it's going on? I found an all copper cpu heatsink that fits 3 of these suckers BTW. Link to comment
Trick Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Enjoy! -Dave Will there be optics for these or do standard optics fit? Link to comment
Tyron Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 What are you all thoughts on a 40b mixed reef with 36 LEDs. All meanwells drivers driver1-14rb driver2-2deep red, 2cw, 6nw driver3-4rb, 2turqouise, 6true violet Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 What are you all thoughts on a 40b mixed reef with 36 LEDs. All meanwells drivers driver1-14rb driver2-2deep red, 2cw, 6nw driver3-4rb, 2turqouise, 6true violet One problem. The standard meanwells can only handle 13 (recommended 12) of the usual 3W LEDs. I think the mix will be good, but keep in mind that the deep reds, turquoise and true violets have a max drive current of 700mAs. For this reason, I think you should keep those on one driver. For ease check out this driver http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/inventronics-40w-driver-700ma/ You might try 2 Deep reds, 2 Turquoise, 2 royal blues, and 6 True violets on that driver. Link to comment
Tyron Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 OK let me backtrack just a taste. I mentioned two builds here recently. Both of them for a 40b. One was a 48 LEDs build on the page before this one I believe and this one is a 36 led build. My thinking was 48leds were too many for a 40b. So I tried to downsize a little bit. Can I keep sps with 36 LEDs in a 40b? If so, is my 36 led suggestion good? Next I want to mention that I'm trying to take advantage of the reef angel controller. It can control 8 channels with pwm module added. In this case I would have to buy buckpucks, buckblocks, flexpucks right? If so, what would be the best way to take advantage of the drivers and channels? And does the reef angel act as the power supply or do I need to buy them? I hope this isn't too much just trying to get my thoughts and questions down Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 OK let me backtrack just a taste. I mentioned two builds here recently. Both of them for a 40b. One was a 48 LEDs build on the page before this one I believe and this one is a 36 led build. My thinking was 48leds were too many for a 40b. So I tried to downsize a little bit. Can I keep sps with 36 LEDs in a 40b? If so, is my 36 led suggestion good? Next I want to mention that I'm trying to take advantage of the reef angel controller. It can control 8 channels with pwm module added. In this case I would have to buy buckpucks, buckblocks, flexpucks right? If so, what would be the best way to take advantage of the drivers and channels? And does the reef angel act as the power supply or do I need to buy them? I hope this isn't too much just trying to get my thoughts and questions down That module should be run just fine by the drivers I posted. My 40 breeder runs 42 LEDs (60 degree optics and 700mA) and I don't have a problem with SPS. 36 LEDs at 1000 mA would be just fine (but remember that the "exotic" LEDs can't handle that much current). If you're running buckpucks then yes you'll need to buy a power supply. The reef angel does not supply power (I'm guessing. My Apex does not.). If you run meanwells/invetronics drivers then you won't need to buy a power supply, but you will need to buy power cords. Either way you can control them with the reef angel. I think it'll be easier to set up if you're not running buckpucks. Link to comment
21093r53 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Magenta is not a primary color. It's a combination of red plus blue. Magenta is basically purple but with a higher component of red. The opposite of magenta (compliment) is green, and green is that one color we don't have control of. We can control red by using warmer LEDs, and we can add blue by turning up our royals, but green is tought to control hence it tends to wash out magenta and purple. Lol at fifth grade art Best combo is t5 and LEDs supplement, I like my growth and color and use LEDs and mh. People with nice LED setups say they love them because they don't want to feel like a dumbass for spenind so much money on technology that's already been out forever just not introduced into the reef hobby. Not to mention by 2014 led prices are estimated to drop by 80 or more percent. Given two years is a long time on this hobby technology wise, I mean hell I remember when wet/dry trickle filters were the ish. Link to comment
Trick Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Lol at fifth grade art Best combo is t5 and LEDs supplement, I like my growth and color and use LEDs and mh. People with nice LED setups say they love them because they don't want to feel like a dumbass for spenind so much money on technology that's already been out forever just not introduced into the reef hobby. Not to mention by 2014 led prices are estimated to drop by 80 or more percent. Given two years is a long time on this hobby technology wise, I mean hell I remember when wet/dry trickle filters were the ish. Many of our led setups actually cost less than t-5 or metal halide. Link to comment
21093r53 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Many of our led setups actually cost less than t-5 or metal halide. DIY from china? Link to comment
Trick Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 DIY from china? Absolutely, why not? and there are other LED options too that are cheaper than MH and T-5. Link to comment
mmcguffi Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hey guys I posted this in the LED groupbuy forum but I thought I might ask for a little guidance here as well How does this set up look? Im planning on 3 separate channels--NW,CW--R,Tq--TV,TV,RB,RB,RB would it be okay to have NW,CW,R,Tq all on one channel? Link to comment
Reefolymia Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Didn't really get my Q answered but nvmd. I fixed it and the LEDs are on! I now have a 12 LED setup over half my 55 and 2 Boost PAR30s on the other side..... growing sps with good color. Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Not to mention by 2014 led prices are estimated to drop by 80 or more percent. Not sure what you are getting at with the statement. So you are saying we should spend money on bulbs, electricity etc etc for two more years in hopes the prices drop? Which basically cost more than a current LED setup? Link to comment
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