Uncitw2b Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 Does/has anyone used these and can give a review on it? Thanks for the review, Link to comment
Austin Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 I've never used it but I DID have a VERY REALISTIC DREAM about it. In the dream, the Hanna Phosphate colorimeter was given to me by the GOLDEN CHICKEN who lives in a MAGIC RAINBOW. I tested the ENCHANTED SEA with it and its readings were identical to my API test kit. J/K my sister has one and it's easy to use and precise. Just seems like a lot of $ for checking phosphates which really isn't that hard to do with the API or Seachem or whatever. It's kind of like those scales that will also tell you your Body Fat Percentage. If you're fat - wouldn't there be other, more obvious indicators? You know, like FATNESS? Link to comment
basser1 Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 Only problem Austin is test kits can be unreliable and trying to use the color charts can be a challenge with the results being in the "eye of the beholder"! The Hanna meters are more precise and takes the guessing game out of the equation. Link to comment
lakshwadeep Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Colorimeters are not going to be hyper-accurate, but they are usually able to distinguish different colors better than the naked eye. Link to comment
NaClCrocodile Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Honestly, the only way you're going to get a more precise reading is if you spend $600 on a lab grade Photometer. The checker is within +/- .04 of Hanna's other Phosphate Photometer which is $200. It's expensive? Really? $40 for the checker and a 25 pack is $9. They've also got the new Ultra Low Range Checker which measures in PPB (that's billion lol). Downside is that you've got 10 seconds to read the LCD after it displays the measurement, which takes either three or five minutes. Link to comment
Austin Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 I guess I just don't understand the need for absolute accuracy when it comes to measuring phosphates. Maintenance of pristine chemistry is like trying to rollerskate while balancing on a beach ball. Additionally, it seems to make more economic sense to spend $40odd dollars on a kit (like API reef master, or whatever) that will give you "close enough" readings of most of your tank's critical chemistry. Because, let's face it, the best yours or anyone's water quality will ever be is "close enough" anyhow. And if you're sole purpose for your tank is the absolute best water quality THEN YOURE DOING IT WRONG. I'm not knocking the Hanna or the OP or anyone at all - it's a cool idea, easier that most other test kits, more precise, and well-made as observed from my limited experience. IMO not the most worthwhile purchase considering the alternatives. Just sayin. Link to comment
Uncitw2b Posted June 21, 2010 Author Share Posted June 21, 2010 Thanks for the input guys. I had some big conflicts and forgot I posted this up. Anyways, I see what you mean Austin. In a way I wasnt entirely looking at it for the accuracy but for the ease of use and like basser and lakshwadeep said it would give me more difinitive (maybe not always more accurate) results instead of me guessing which shade it is. I dont test as much as I should and so maybe if I were to find something easier to use, I would test more. Link to comment
Bio_Borg Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 I just ordered one. The problem with API is that it's useless for low end resolution, same with Seachem. The lowest it reads is .25 ppm PO4.. You could have .20 or .01 phosphates and it will still read the same color. If you have even .25ppm phosphates you'll be rockin' brown SPS and hair algae. So in other words they are mostly useless. It's recommended that you want a Po4 level below .10 to keep algae at bay, and below .04 to maintain SPS. I believe the only tests that give you low resolution are Salifert and Tunze, and they are still "match the color" based and cost almost as much as the calorimeter. IMHO the $47 one time charge I paid for the calorimeter and the 35 cents I'll pay per test for the reagent will in the long run be cheaper than a low res chemical based kits.. API/Salifert etc cut the mustard on nitrates, calcium, Mg, etc, but Phosphate is a different beast and the Hanna checker is the way to go. I guess I just don't understand the need for absolute accuracy when it comes to measuring phosphates. Maintenance of pristine chemistry is like trying to rollerskate while balancing on a beach ball. Additionally, it seems to make more economic sense to spend $40odd dollars on a kit (like API reef master, or whatever) that will give you "close enough" readings of most of your tank's critical chemistry. Because, let's face it, the best yours or anyone's water quality will ever be is "close enough" anyhow. And if you're sole purpose for your tank is the absolute best water quality THEN YOURE DOING IT WRONG. I'm not knocking the Hanna or the OP or anyone at all - it's a cool idea, easier that most other test kits, more precise, and well-made as observed from my limited experience. IMO not the most worthwhile purchase considering the alternatives. Just sayin. Link to comment
Austin Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 To be fair, Bio_Borg is right. The API test will not give you the low low readings that the Hanna will. This was my sister's argument as well (hers is who I am basing my impressions off of). It's also true that phosphates need to be approaching or at 0 to maintain most healthy happy SPS... .25ppm Phos is not necessarily going to cause GHA but it certainly is far from ideal for many reef tanks. OP, hopefully if you are monitoring your Phos and need the degree of scrutiny the Hanna provides - you've also made accomodations for some form of phosphate removal either fuge or skimmer, or perhaps GFO/chemical binding agent. Detecting it is one thing, getting rid of it is another. Conclusion: it is a good product. Link to comment
Bio_Borg Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 FYI. I got my Hanna meter. Was shocked at the 0.00 value I got on my main tank with my first testing. repeated and got the same result second time around. Tested my neglected Biocube that has tons of hair algae, and I got 0.04, which I guess is possible, though I thought it would be higher. As for the unit itself, it definitely takes the guesswork out of the equation.. However, two annoying complaints: 1) The reagent packets.. Pouring the contents into the cuvettes is a mess and you can't be sure you got it all in. Would be much better if the reagent came in a bottle with a measuring spoon. 2) The freaking 2 minute time limit before the unit resets.. After baselining your sample you have 2 minutes to pour the reagent into the cuvette, get the reagent totally dissolved, and wipe the cuvette down for prints water before inserting it.. You have to be FAST. It probably takes a good 30 seconds alone to just get the stuff dissolved, and pouring the packets without spilling stuff outside the cuvette is an artform.. So A+ on simplicty and no need for guesswork, D for the annoying time limit and reagent packets that make the process unneedingly frustrating.. I'm about to measure how much reagent is actually in a packet, and mass tear them open and pour them all into a dosing bottle and use an old salifert measuring spoon to add the reagent in the future. I must spend a good 60 seconds tearing the packet and trying to pour it into the cuvette without spilling any down the sides. Link to comment
Radioheadx14 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I have been using one for about 2 months and it works well. I used it an found that the rubbermaid containers I have been using are leaching phosphates in my ro and tank. As for adding the reagent, I use a liquer flask funnel. It works well and I am able to get it all in. I always set my microwave timer for 2 minutes and 45 seconds. That way I am alerted when the reading is about to show. Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 So, i tested my fresh batch of ro/di and the unit blinked zero (something about the reagent sample reading lower than the first sample). I redid the test and got 0.11. So, if my phos in my ro/di is really 0.11, it's time to change the filters. But how do I know this thing is accurate? My tank water tested at 0.09 a couple days ago. Link to comment
sean151 Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 So, i tested my fresh batch of ro/di and the unit blinked zero (something about the reagent sample reading lower than the first sample). I redid the test and got 0.11. So, if my phos in my ro/di is really 0.11, it's time to change the filters. But how do I know this thing is accurate? My tank water tested at 0.09 a couple days ago. It's possible that your tank is using up the phosphate added from the ro/di, if there is phosphate in your ro/di water. Not sure how likely that is and if you did it should show up on a tds meter either on your unit or on a hand held unit. One of the previous posters said his container for ro water was leaching phosphates so maybe that is the case, but even that I would doubt. I would take a sample of freshly poured water and your stored water and compare results if your tds is coming out to 0. If you did test fresh water right from the filter maybe you got some of the tds from the water sitting there, forgot what that's called when it passes through the membrane. Hope this helps narrow it down. Link to comment
krug1313 Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 I actually did a YouTube video last night on this checker. Please check it out and subscribe to my channel. http://www.youtube.com/user/krug1313 I appreciate your support and hopefully you like the video. Link to comment
basser1 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I actually did a YouTube video last night on this checker. Please check it out and subscribe to my channel. http://www.youtube.com/user/krug1313 I appreciate your support and hopefully you like the video. Ummm.... The link you provided is for the Hydor Koralia, am I missing something? Link to comment
krug1313 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Ummm.... The link you provided is for the Hydor Koralia, am I missing something? That link is for my channel and all my videos. You'll find the Hanna Checker video in my video list. Please subscribe to my channel. Once I hit 500 subscribers I have a nice prize valued at $69.99 + Tax to give away. Just the first of many giveaways for my subscribers. I'll announce what the prize is as I get closer to the 500 mark. Link to comment
lakshwadeep Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 That link is for my channel and all my videos. You'll find the Hanna Checker video in my video list. Please subscribe to my channel. Once I hit 500 subscribers I have a nice prize valued at $69.99 + Tax to give away. Just the first of many giveaways for my subscribers. I'll announce what the prize is as I get closer to the 500 mark. Wouldn't it be more decent to think about giving the relevant link? This thread's topic is not about fishing for subscribers. Link to comment
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