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Minibow 16 Lighting - cheap and easy?


jellyfish

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OK - Here I go! I have been reading, reading, reading...and am taking the plunge! I purchased a 16 gal Minibow (that's it so far) and need to get recommendations for lighting.

 

I have read a lot of the posts about retros, but honestly it's all Greek to me... :*(

 

I know I can't use the existing light, and I have heard that I can't just put a VHO light in the existing sockets (true?)

 

So, what would my options be for ease of installation, but keeping costs down as much as possible?

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Two extremely important questions need to be answered before I can give an educated opinion.

 

What Corals do you plan on keeping?

 

How Much do you want to spend?

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I am still doing research on livestock (compatibility, etc). From the other tanks I have looked at, here's what I am interested in: Candy Canes, Spotted Mushrooms, Ricordea, Pipe Organ, Kenya Tree, Clove and/or Glove Polyps

 

Cost: hoping to keep it $50-100

 

Thanks so much for helping me with this!!!

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If you plan on retrofitting your hood, I would first gut the standard Normal output Flourescent and check the internal dimensions thoroughly. The retro may or may not fit. I would also confirm the Length of your aquarium. The Legs on the hood may not fit the bowfront.

 

Once you get the dimensions set, I think the powerquad is a good way to go. You can keep all but the super light demanding corals and clams. Just don't expect alot of hard corals to color up. It is still a good deal and it does the job.

 

Before you get the powerquad just make sure you can tell your self "I will never have an interest in all those ugly SPS corals and those crocea clams"

 

It sucks to upgrade.

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OK - I promise this will be my last lighting question for now :angel: Which of these setups (in your opinion) would be the best value for longevity? Based on your last post, I would assume the 1st one. What would you recommend to be the least expensive way for me to go if I do want SPS/crocea down the road? And lastly, can I begin to cycle the tank with the stock light and add the upgraded lighting shortly (within 1-2 wks) after I begin the cycling?

 

PowerQuad 96 watt SmartLite Retrofit Kit $125.99: The PowerQuad 96 watt SmartLite Retrofit Kit incorporates the 96-watt PowerQuad SmartLamp with the single 96 watt Electro-Lite ballast and endcap, and a ready-to-mount polished aluminum reflector for a complete, easy-to-install retrofit kit. The PowerQuad lamp is a revolutionary 4-tube, 18" lamp that provides unparalleled output. With two 10,000°K super daylight tubes and two actinic blue tubes, it is the perfect setup for smaller or oddly shaped aquariums.

 

PowerCompact Moon Lite $111.99: This unique lighting system uses the powerful illumination of PowerCompact lamps by day and the beautiful 'moon-glow' of the ultra-efficient, LED Moon Lite by night. Comes complete with 10000ºK Premium-Daylight, Ultra Actinic and independently operating Moon Lites for dawn to dusk lighting. Constructed of sleek black aluminum housing with an ultra-quiet, ball bearing fan to ensure lamps operate cool and efficient. Includes Light Stilts to elevate above aquarium, acrylic splash lens, independent ballasts for PowerCompacts, and three independent 5 ft. power cords for lighting units.

 

PowerCompact Retrofit Kits $135.99: Easily installed, intense PowerCompacts produce twice as many lux as a comparable 110-watt VHO without any increase in heat! Water-resistant end caps help keep the unit working longer. A custom reflector lets you easily, effectively disperse light throughout your aquarium. Comes complete with Ultra-Daylight and Actinic lamp(s) to easily simulate day and night in your aquarium. 15" to 36" have 1 ballast.

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For PC's This is the best you'll get.

 

http://www.hellolights.com/201xcoaqcfho.html.

 

In the 16 most SPS will be okay, but will USUALLY not get or keep the colors you may be after. With good flow, CA/ALK and feeding you can may get some to color up fine though. Croceas should be kept in the rock work, as well as Maximas. Other Clams will be fine on the sand bed.

 

That's the best you'll find for PC's and you will be able to keep most everything with some SPS's thriving. Some may just stay alive and grow slowly with a bit of browning.

 

For an extra hundred bucks, you can get a nice 175 halide retofit, but then you either need to build a hood, or pendant. 175 pendants are available, but then you start getting to the price of the 150's, which I would believe would be optimal.

 

If you can stomach the cost of a 150 DE pendant with a 20k bulb you can grow everything you want with no PC's and they also have a great resale Value.

 

The best thing about halides IMO is that they make the tank look awesome. I am in Love with Glitter lines.

 

If you are almost ready to spend 136 plus shipping I would Be patient if you can and save another month and go halide.

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Jelly:

 

You are 100% correct. A 10k will be all white and depending on your preference it will work well. The growth will be the best, but it won't bring a whole lot of flourescence in your corals and some will not color up as nice. a 20k will give you decent flourscence, but the growth will be slowed. Considering this is only a 16 a 150 DE 20k should be fine. I had a 175 20k on my 18 and replaced it with a 10k because I wanted more growth. I also have a 36 watt PC for actinic, but I still want more blue. Since it is an SPS and Clam Tank I almost want a 250 so that I can have 20k and still get the Par.

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are you asking me? The only 14k I would go for is a hamilton. 12k sunburst and 13k pfo stink when it comes to par. The 14k, from what I understand has only minimal better par than say an XM 20k. If you want Blue go 20k all the way, if you are okay with "natural" color than go 10k and get your growth. I believe that Wetworx has a 14 and loves it. IMO the 175's have such low par that if I want 20k it is almost needed to step up to a 250, that is if you want SPS all the way. Otherwise the 175 is fine in the 20k. Clams just like more intensity.

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ryux:

 

Though actinics have definite usable Par for corals, it is not needed by any means. It is used to add looks, more light and to help the coral color up better. for a 9.5 I would still go with a 150 20k though. With out Actinic's the corals just do not flourecse the same. Even 20k don't get the super flourecnce that you get from a URI VHO superactinic. Those things are unbeatable at this time for flourecsence. PC's pale in comparison.

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