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Deciphering Ammonia Reading


MilkWeed18

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I am 2 weeks into my cycle, everything is reading zero, except my Ammonia. It reads .25 when its on the white measuring cards, and .50 when its off the card. Whats the best way to read these. Also would these reading by dangerous if i add 2 snails (clean up some algae).

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lakshwadeep

What kind of live rock did you get?

 

Try also testing pure freshwater to get a reference color on what 0 ppm ammonia should be.

 

Snails and other CUC animals should not be added if there are measurable ammonia/nitrites.

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My LFS said it was Fiji live rock. Should i try tap freshwater or water from a freshwater tank. I do have a 55 Gal Cichlid tank.

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I tried fresh tap water to see how Ammonia looked like at 0 ppm. It actually worked. At least i know my tank hasn't cycled yet. Thanks Lakswadeep

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lakshwadeep

Was the rock cured? If so, then chances are you won't have a cycle, which is a good thing. Curing is the same thing as cyclng.

 

Check again with filtered water like distilled or RO/DI; tap water may have ammonia or other compounds. Using water from a freshwater tank would be also inconsistent and possibly have ammonia. Are you using tap water for your tank? That is a potential cause for chronic problems, which is why using filtered water is important for ensuring good water quality.

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I tried both tap water and distilled water. I'm currently using distilled water for my tank. My ammonia reading are still the same. To me it looks like 0, but my girlfriend says its in between 0 and .25.

 

Since i wasn't using saltwater to see how 0 ppm looked like, would that be why it gave me a bright yellow, instead of dull yellow.

 

I think i remember the LFS saying it was cured LR. Would that be why i haven't got a diatom bloom yet. I'm 3 weeks and 1 day into my cycle.

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Are you using the marine color card from you ammonia test kit? There are two different color cards for fresh and marine.

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I always had a problem with the reading darker(higher) ON the card. Until I realized when they say to do it in a well lit area they mean VERY bright. if there is enough light in the room there isn't any difference on or off the card really.

 

either way with the ammonia. drip drip shake watch it turn bright yellow..if it goes even a tinge darker you have some ammonia in the system. This is how I read all my nitrite, nitrate, and ammonia. Watch them as they develop with a lot of light up against the card. Often they will turn just a bit off the initial color but not to the 2nd color on the chart. API tests are probably the most cost effective but they are not the most accurate and easy to read tests around.

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