Reggie Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Another option is have two float switches in series. A bad float would usually sink (or if a snail rides it) turning the circuit on. If you have another one in series, it breaks the circuit. I've been running two in series for about 8 months now. Good idea on using the mag-float 20 though. Link to comment
StevieT Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Spirorbid worms. q-tip sponges. macroalgae coralline algae hell, aipstasia. You've got horseshoes up your ass stevie. You know, if you don't want to deal with a second floatswitch in the tank, for about $2 worth of components (2 resistors, capacitor, transistor), you can create a timer that will prevent the ato from running for more than a predetermined amount of time. It's really simple. Just ask. Good points but my current set up has been 100% clean as is for a long enough time. I also do not have the room to put another float in a far enough away spot to make it fail safe. Spirorbid worms. never had any q-tip sponges. Usually on a surfaces, ato float hangs in water away from walls and is checked often enough macroalgae Don't have any. Will not grow in rear chamber coralline algae Never had any in rear chamber, 100% dark. hell, aipstasia. Never had any MJ1200 will pump all water out of resv. in a very very short time, used to have a timer, didn't like it. If this was not an AIO aquarium than a three float system would be nice to have. Link to comment
Billdemart Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Your sensor has to go where the water level changes with evaporation. There is typically only one place. Where do you look to see if you have to top up? The display Link to comment
malibumowry Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 I would buy one too, just like that! I'd just have to find a snail guard for it since it would have to go in my display. Link to comment
gregzbobo Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 I would buy one too, just like that! I'd just have to find a snail guard for it since it would have to go in my display. Aquamend epoxy tube, cut the bottom end off a little longer than where the trhead start to the bottom of the switch, cut a big hole in the center of the cap of the Aquamend tube for the threads, cut 2-3 much smaller vent holes spaced around the bigger hole. Put the float in the tube, thread the wires through the cap and install cap to tube with enclosed switch, then through the mount, then through the nut and tighten nut securely. That's how mine is, inspired by El-Fab's ATO. BTW, put the epoxy in a freezer bag to keep it from drying out if you want to make use of it. Stevie, you're not worried about overflowing the tank if the one switch fails and keeps the pump on? A 2nd switch setup to kill the pump if it rises would greatly reduce/eliminate that risk. Just my 2 cents. Link to comment
Derekcaudill Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 where did you get the float switch? awesome setup by the way. Looks like I have a weekend project now. Link to comment
StevieT Posted April 2, 2010 Author Share Posted April 2, 2010 Stevie, you're not worried about overflowing the tank if the one switch fails and keeps the pump on? No I am not. where did you get the float switch? awesome setup by the way. Looks like I have a weekend project now. It is a Digital Aquatics float switch to hook to the reefkeeper A 2nd switch setup to kill the pump if it rises would greatly reduce/eliminate that risk. Second switch goes in the resv to prevent the pump from burn out. Much more of an issue than a freak switch sticking Link to comment
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