Soopa1 Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 When I purchased my supplies my LFS told me that I could use water conditioner to remove the chlorine & chloride from my water. After reading around on this topic, Im assuming that is a no-no, because I dont see anyone doing that. All my parameters are fine, but my nitrates are always at a steady 10-20 ppm (colors are really close) From my understanding this is OK for a FOWLR? When I do my weekly change this weekend I'm going to run out and get some RO water, so what % should I do? Link to comment
northstar1357 Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 so what % should I do? 20% Link to comment
schott81 Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Sounds like you go to the same store I started at. I don't care what any LFS says - they only tell you that it's perfectly fine to use a conditioner is probably b/c they don't sell RO/DI water. I'm sure in some instances it can be done by using tap water, with the right set up - but if your a noob like me, I suggest starting out using RO water. I started mine by treating tap water, and have been fighting a brown algae problem ever since. Needless to say, the only water that goes in from now on is RO water. Link to comment
lakshwadeep Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 To remove as much of the original tap water as possible, it's better to do larger water changes (~50+%). Otherwise, you will need to do a larger number of smaller water changes. Link to comment
Soopa1 Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 Sounds like you go to the same store I started at. I don't care what any LFS says - they only tell you that it's perfectly fine to use a conditioner is probably b/c they don't sell RO/DI water. I'm sure in some instances it can be done by using tap water, with the right set up - but if your a noob like me, I suggest starting out using RO water. I started mine by treating tap water, and have been fighting a brown algae problem ever since. Needless to say, the only water that goes in from now on is RO water. Funny thing is, they do sell it...lol To remove as much of the original tap water as possible, it's better to do larger water changes (~50+%). Otherwise, you will need to do a larger number of smaller water changes. OUCH! Oh well...you gotta live and learn. Link to comment
neanderthalman Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 IF you don't have livestock, drain & fill, IMO Link to comment
scythe Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 When I purchased my supplies my LFS told me that I could use water conditioner to remove the chlorine & chloride from my water. After reading around on this topic, Im assuming that is a no-no, because I dont see anyone doing that. All my parameters are fine, but my nitrates are always at a steady 10-20 ppm (colors are really close) From my understanding this is OK for a FOWLR? When I do my weekly change this weekend I'm going to run out and get some RO water, so what % should I do? 100% RO IMO , if you really want to use your tap water test it first so you know what your putting in your tank. You could of course treat it yourself before you add it. Link to comment
bdare Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 Removing the Chlorine and Chloride will make the water, less toxic, but I'd be more worried about the other stuff... Copper from your pipes will kill inverts Phosphate and nitrate will fuel algae growth See where I'm going? Link to comment
Soopa1 Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 Phosphate and nitrate will fuel algae growth See where I'm going? Yup. I'm seeing a lil brown algae in there. Link to comment
tk3445 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I just started a nano reef and i almost started the tank with conditioned tap water... and ill tell you what I am glad I did some reasearch before starting it. I went to my LFS (not really local an hour away) but anyways, i bought salt water out of one of their systems to start my tank since i bought cured live rock and then a gallon of RO for evap top-offs. I invested the next time i went to the LFS into a Coralife Pureflow 50GPD RO unit and it cost me $150 well worth it to me because i live 25+ miles away from my LFS who sells RO for 50 cents a gallon. so i would spend $150 in gas after about a month of driving there for RO water. you can pick up RO units online for a comperable price maybe cheaper... if you have no livestock yet i would consider draining the whole tank and setting it up the right way from the start. you will be a lot happier! Link to comment
RyanR1212 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 i had a problem with my water and instead of buying an RODI system i just got a huge filter and now my tap is perfect... you could do this too but the filter is about 6 feet tall and was about $2,500. the only reason i got this was because my tap was really bad to drink so i kinda needed it. otherwise i would have gotten an RODI system or used RODI water Link to comment
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