Why can I use tap water for a reef tank?

[32Bit_Fish]

I know this topic has been discussed several times either on this board or at other sites.

 

But I live in NYC and the tap water here is very clean. There are people drink right out of the faucet.

 

I also use "Prime" that removes chlorine, chloramine, Ammonia and detoxifies nitriteand nitrate. I've tested my tap water and it has no ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. The ph has always been at 7.0

 

What other chemicals in the tap water that might promote algaes in a reef tank? I'm not sure whether phosphate is being added in our tap water here.

 

It would be very nice if I can just use treated tap water for reef tank.

[skimlessinseattle]

You can use treated tap water, but most people prefer to start with the purest possible water they can. I have used treated tap water in the past, and my LFS uses treated tap as well. It's up to you. I would recommend RO/DI though, as there is less chance of encountering nuiscance algae. Check this unit out, it is way better than treating gallons of water, and will cost less in the long run.

 

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/produc...-ro-system.html

 

Hook it up to your kitchen sink, and put away when done.

[MEDGE]

While NY water has low TDS it has one of the highest silt density readings in the US. This means the particulates or sediment are very high. This is due to the reservoir systems and water transmission systems NY is able to use due to being so old and grandfathered in by the EPA. The cost and physical room to upgrade NY's treatment plants would be prohibitive.

 

I listen to this guy, he seems to really know his H2O.

[KMitch]

I know this topic has been discussed several times either on this board or at other sites.

 

But I live in NYC and the tap water here is very clean. There are people drink right out of the faucet.

 

I also use "Prime" that removes chlorine, chloramine, Ammonia and detoxifies nitriteand nitrate. I've tested my tap water and it has no ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. The ph has always been at 7.0

 

What other chemicals in the tap water that might promote algaes in a reef tank? I'm not sure whether phosphate is being added in our tap water here.

 

It would be very nice if I can just use treated tap water for reef tank.

 

You want the Ph in your tank to be closer to 8.2. I can't tell if that 7.0 was in reference to what came out of the tap or in the tank.

 

The other problem is most tap water has phosphates in it which can make algae a problem. Take a sample of your tap water to your shop and ask them to test the TDS of the water. RO water should be 0, and if it is high you'll fight problems. Just because it tastes good and folks drink it from the tap doesn't mean it is good for the tank. Many people use tap water, most use RO..... most of us have tried tap at some point. For the expensive hobby this is, the $100 to get a small RO unit isn't a big expense.

[32Bit_Fish]

You can use treated tap water, but most people prefer to start with the purest possible water they can. I have used treated tap water in the past, and my LFS uses treated tap as well. It's up to you. I would recommend RO/DI though, as there is less chance of encountering nuiscance algae. Check this unit out, it is way better than treating gallons of water, and will cost less in the long run.

 

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/produc...-ro-system.html

 

Hook it up to your kitchen sink, and put away when done.

 

The RO/DI system just take too long to produce RO water. I do have a 110GPD unit, I guess I will use it.

The reason I was asking the question is I want to see any other alternative/ a quick way of doing the w/c.

[KMitch]

The RO/DI system just take too long to produce RO water. I do have a 110GPD unit, I guess I will use it.

The reason I was asking the question is I want to see any other alternative/ a quick way of doing the w/c.

 

Plan ahead. Yeah RO is slow but if you make a big batch and store it... it doesn't go bad! I use old cat litter jugs (washed out of course) to store large amounts of water so I am only making RO once a month and can use my 'reserves' for weekly changes or emergency. I have a 30 gal tank and do 5/gal a week changes, and it doesn't take too long for my 100gpd unit to make 20 gal of water.

[skimlessinseattle]

The RO/DI system just take too long to produce RO water. I do have a 110GPD unit, I guess I will use it.

The reason I was asking the question is I want to see any other alternative/ a quick way of doing the w/c.

Make a butt load of water in one shot! Put a 55g rubbermaid brute on casters and fill it up once. That should last a while.

[32Bit_Fish]

Plan ahead. Yeah RO is slow but if you make a big batch and store it... it doesn't go bad! I use old cat litter jugs (washed out of course) to store large amounts of water so I am only making RO once a month and can use my 'reserves' for weekly changes or emergency. I have a 30 gal tank and do 5/gal a week changes, and it doesn't take too long for my 100gpd unit to make 20 gal of water.

 

That is a very good idea. I have spare fish tanks sitting around collecting dust. I will use it as reserve tank.

 

Thanks

[ReeferFL]

I know there are methods for purifying tap h2o, but I steer clear of them. RO/DI h20 is cheap. "Prime" does remove compounds such as chlorine and chloramine, which is good. However, does it remove other elements such as phosphates and silicates? If the answer is no, then you could be adding certain elements to your system that do potential damage to your system down the line (i.e. algae blooms). Metals such as Iron and Copper are also present in tap h20. The elements are not bad for your system, but having a high concentration of either is not advised. People have written dissertations on this topic. Do more research and see what you come up with. HTH

[KMitch]

That is a very good idea. I have spare fish tanks sitting around collecting dust. I will use it as reserve tank.

 

Thanks

 

Yep. If you are really handy you can set it up too so that your RO once made (if being used for changes) has salt added and is mixed for a few days before transferring it. Making up large amounts at a time lets you add a heater and salt, etc so that when you do a water change it can be really fast and easy- plus it'll put less stress on the fish if the water going in is the same as the water coming out.

[firebirdude]

The other problem is most tap water has phosphates in it which can make algae a problem. Take a sample of your tap water to your shop and ask them to test the TDS of the water. RO water should be 0, and if it is high you'll fight problems. Just because it tastes good and folks drink it from the tap doesn't mean it is good for the tank..

Exactly. Phosphates are common and they're one of the leading causes of nuisance algae. Also, DI water should read zero TDS. RO water will read 10-20 TDS. Tap water varies greatly, but is between ~140-450 TDS. TDS = Total Dissolved Solids. These solids can be anything. That's why most people use distilled 0 TDS water. So they can start with a clean slate, then add their salt/chemicals of choice.

 

It's hard to break an RO/DI unit. So I'd look into buying used, then buy new filters for it. Might be cheap than buying a whole new one.

[lakshwadeep]

If you want to use tap water, read this water chemistry article:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2004/chem.htm

[plainrt]

I use tap water

[StevieT]

What other chemicals in the tap water that might promote [problems] in a reef tank?

 

metals like copper. Chemicals that can't be removed by the treatment plants.

 

lol I drink my tap water but would never put it in my reef tank. Use RO/DI

[Lawnman]

metals like copper. Chemicals that can't be removed by the treatment plants.

 

lol I drink my tap water but would never put it in my reef tank. Use RO/DI

I was going to say the same thing when I read the first post. I drink the water from my tap but would not put it in my tank. My tap water comes out around 380 TDS LOL

[monosyth]

Simply put, Check TDS (total dissolved solids) and make sure its closest to 0. Anything higher than that and you may have problems in your tank.

 

I use a Mighty Mite and I love it!

[StevieT]

My tap water comes out around 380 TDS LOL

 

Almost identical here. Lake Michigan water yum yum ym

[32Bit_Fish]

Simply put, Check TDS (total dissolved solids) and make sure its closest to 0. Anything higher than that and you may have problems in your tank.

 

I use a Mighty Mite and I love it!

 

 

I don't think my tap water here as 0 TDS result. But I guess it would be fine for a FO tank.

[StevieT]

no tap water has a 0 TDS. Only way to achieve that is with an RO filter and then a DI

[monosyth]

Good Luck! You've been warned by about 10 experienced reefers here.

[AZDesertRat]

NYC tap water has some of the highest sediment loadings in the country, it is far far from clean and pristine. Thats why NYC is under consent decees with the EPA and is scrambling to build surface water treatment plants, the daily ines are astronomical.

While your TDS is low your TSS and other things are quite high. Don't chance it, get a RO/DI and use it.

[Lawnman]

NYC tap water has some of the highest sediment loadings in the country, it is far far from clean and pristine. Thats why NYC is under consent decees with the EPA and is scrambling to build surface water treatment plants, the daily ines are astronomical.

While your TDS is low your TSS and other things are quite high. Don't chance it, get a RO/DI and use it.

The water god has spoken don't use tap water.

[spencers]

Millipore Super Q FTW.

[EricD675]

I started out with RO water and went about a month before breaking down and doing a waterchange with tap water, traded with some API conditioner.

 

The water here is around 170 tds. But I find it to be extremely high on the API alk/hardness test. So my lately my tank has excess amounts of calcium and alk.

 

I`m lucky with very to no algae besides a bubble outbreak.

[neanderthalman]

I started out with RO water and went about a month before breaking down and doing a waterchange with tap water, traded with some API conditioner.

 

The water here is around 170 tds. But I find it to be extremely high on the API alk/hardness test. So my lately my tank has excess amounts of calcium and alk.

 

I`m lucky with very to no algae besides a bubble outbreak.

 

tick tick tick tick

 

 

That's the tap water time bomb ticking.

 

Are you aware that tap water conditions can change rapidly? I'm not talking about just seasonal runoff or current shifts, or the effects of construction or maintenance of the water distribution system or treatment plant. Even something like slamming a little-used door in your house can release a shiat-ton of nasty garbage that will briefly push your TDS/TSS into the thousands.

 

Don't believe me? Start your kitchen tap running into a drinking glass, then get someone to bang the pipes in your basement. Come back and tell me what color the water turns. Now consider the effects of evaporation as you top up with tap water. The contaminants at 170ppm may be low enough today to not cause a problem. Keep doing it - keep topping up with tap water, and those concentrations in your tank will continue to rise - for the same reasons you don't top up with saltwater. Eventually they will be high enough to wreak havoc.

 

It's your tank, and your problem. You were warned, and you can either choose to heed that warning or continue sailing into a storm. I will not weep for you.