Newbie Questions about converting to SW

[tcm080]

Ok, First post, so excuse my ignorance please..

Alright, I have a lot of experience with african cichlids, and FW tanks, and am looking at setting up a nano-reef, and adapting what corals/fish I keep to my setup.

From my research, i have some questions

 

1. Would i do better to buy a JBJ nano-cube or go with a standard tank, (say 10 or 15 gal, already own), use some extra filters I have (I was thinking 2 whispers + powerhead), and dump my money into a lighting system? Looking to spend roughly $150-200 on equipment...LFS is running a "special" on nanocubes (150 for tank, sand, hydrometer, heater)

 

2. Equipment - will using my syphon and buckets on a saltwater tank possibly screw up my FW tanks?

 

3. How much more work is SW than FW? I already do 25% water changes every 2 weeks, cleaning, and other stuff (probably 2-3 hrs/2 weeks minimum) As my FW tanks are well established, I do not test anymore....I understand that the salt content of the water must be tested frequently (1 time per week?), but beyond testing for salt and standard cleaning, is there anything more once the tank is cycled in?

 

4. I've read that people only do water changes using RO water from their LFS, Is this a necessity? or is it possible to use a mix and get the same results considering how fragile a nano-reef is?

 

Sorry about the length,

Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated

Tom

[tinyreef]

1. yes, don't skimp on the lights. you can basically setup a reef in a mason jar (watch your bioload and flow rate ) as long as the correct lighting is employed. ever use any copper meds tho? ???

 

2. i don't think you'd have a problem SW to FW but you may have some issues FW to SW. mainly copper and impurities issues, higher standards are required. you shouldn't need to ever vacuum a SW btw. wc's via air tubing (one higher and one lower) is the safest method imo.

 

3. hmm, your amount of FW work is pretty equivalent. in FW i used to just dump in tapwater when it got noticeable. X) then again, i was raising goldfish (water rats). testing schedules should eventually end up the same after your tank matures and stabilizes (1~2 years). i never test but i look for certain signs and 'listen' to the livestock.

 

4. makeup water (evaporation or wc's) should be at least RO if not RO/DI or distilled imo. you should get as pure as you can afford when 1ppm~1ppb of something can fugup your tank. hth

[palaegic]

I say forego the nano-cube. Pick up a 10 gallon for 10 bucks and focus on lighting and liverock. Tiny hit all of the other bases. Although, I second the emphasis on the quality of water you use. Anything short of reverse osmosis purified water is setting you up for a long and frustrating journey.

[tcm080]

Thanks for tips....African cichlids can be a bit more challenging than goldfish, but i love it

 

Ok, i'm looking at a 15 gal, whipser HOB filter + eheim 600 powerhead, 50 w ebo jager heater, and now lighting....Custom sealife 1x65w....Will this light be enough for this tank? its about 80$ at marinedepot.com.....is there someplace where i can get it or something simliar cheaper? or should i spend a little more and get something better?

 

fish - 2 perc clowns

and whatever corals will live in these lighting conditions...

 

Thanks again for the help,

Tom