gregzbobo Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 So where is the cheapest place to order from? The only part I know where to order is the heatsink. Ordering from heatsink usa. I want to go with the Meanwell ELN-60-48D's. And where should I order the Leds and what ones? Cree XR-e (p4, q4, q5, r2)? Good prices evilc66 tested and approved. Link to comment
moovinfast Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 I know. Those are definitely the best prices I could find on the drivers for sure without doing a group buy. Have 3. Any ideas on the layout for the 39 leds? Link to comment
moovinfast Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 20x20x15. You said before to go with at least 4 rows of eight but I want to add a few more leds since I just got 39. 26 white and 13 blue Link to comment
evilc66 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 X.X.X.X.X.X.X.X .X.X.X.X.X.X.X X.X.X.X.X.X.X.X .X.X.X.X.X.X.X X.X.X.X.X.X.X.X That's 38 LEDs and a lot better front to back coverage. Getting the pattern right for a 2:1 white to blue mix will be a little tougher to blend well. Link to comment
moovinfast Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 Just remembered there is a corner over flow so I think I can do 4 rows of 8 and 1 row of 7. would this work ok? The xxx's are the overflow. W.B.W.W.B.W.W.B. .W.W.B.W.W.B.W.W B.W.W.W.B.W.W.B. .W.W.B.W.W.B.W.W B.W.W.B.W.W.Bxxx Link to comment
moovinfast Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share Posted November 2, 2009 So 2 questions. Ive been reading its not good to run the RB leds at 1000ma. Right now I have 13 on the way and am going to be driving them with the Meanwell 60-48d. Does this mean I should get 13 more RB leds and run them in parallel? Also whats the easiest way to dim them? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 With proper heatsinking, the RBs at 1000mA are fine. Easiest way to dim the "D" is with a 10v DC power supply and a 5k pot. Many times the power supply isn't 10v output though with a small load. What will be most accurate will be to get a 12v power supply (more common than 10v), use an LM317 to set your max voltage to 10v, and use a pot to adjust the output voltage from 0-10v. You could always get a Reefkeeper Lite and an ALC module and have it all automated. Link to comment
moovinfast Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share Posted November 2, 2009 So I need to find 2 12v wall warts (do the amps matter?) and 2 of These and 2 5k pots. Or do I need 3 of everything since Im running 3 drivers. 2 white and one blue? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 Amps doesn't matter. You will need one power supply, one voltage regulator, and however many pots you need to control however many groups of drivers (2 in your case based on what you just said). Link to comment
moovinfast Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Ordered a LM317 to go with a 12v power supply and (2) 5k pots. Heatsinks showed up today. Do I need to drill and tap or can I just use thermal paste? Link to comment
moovinfast Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 So will the 5k pots be ok? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Thermal paste is not an adhesive. You will need some way to fasten the LEDs down, whether it's by screw, thermal epoxy, or thermal adhesive pad. The pots will be fine. You know you need additional resistors to set the output voltage of the LM317 right? Link to comment
moovinfast Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 yeah. I ordered sometihng similar to this SO then what works better. Drill adn tap with thermal paste or just use thermal epoxy? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Drill and tap wins hands down from a thermal standpoint. Epoxy works, and it's a lot less labor, but it's very permanent. Link to comment
xcracer Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 thermal glue seems to work, i've had mine glued for a few months now.. and still going strong.. i have removed 3-4 of them and all you need to do is keep wiggling a flat razorblade under them till they pop off.. i dont think it would be possible without a blade, it is strong.. Link to comment
gregzbobo Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 thermal glue seems to work, i've had mine glued for a few months now.. and still going strong.. i have removed 3-4 of them and all you need to do is keep wiggling a flat razorblade under them till they pop off.. i dont think it would be possible without a blade, it is strong.. Could also try twisting the star, most epoxies have fairly poor shear strength. Link to comment
moovinfast Posted November 18, 2009 Author Share Posted November 18, 2009 Which way do you turn down the internal pot? It doesnt stop when turned. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Counter clockwise. It should stop. It's only a 270 degree rotation pot. Link to comment
moovinfast Posted November 18, 2009 Author Share Posted November 18, 2009 So i have 2 of the 3 turned down. One doesn't stop when you turn it. Ideas? Also only 4-5 leds on each string is lighting up out of 13. Once plugged in they come on very dim. And when I hook up a 9v to the dimmer only the ones that are dim to start with work. Ive tested all the leds with 2 AA batteries and they all work. Now what? Link to comment
moovinfast Posted November 18, 2009 Author Share Posted November 18, 2009 Well I got all the strings working. Turns out I grounded a few of the leds. But still cant turn down the current on one of the drivers. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 If the driver isn't adjusting the current, it sounds like that faulty pot is to blame. Contact the place where you bought it for a replacement. Link to comment
moovinfast Posted November 19, 2009 Author Share Posted November 19, 2009 I should be getting a replacement driver soon. Also waiting for a new blue led as one of the ones I got was a dud. But have everything ready to go once they get here. Have the heatsink drilled and tapped. All the leds are installed and soldered. Link to comment
moovinfast Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 Got it all wired and hung. Still waiting for a ballast, but have the blues up and running. Not sure if I going to build a canopy around it yet. I kinda like the industrial look. Ill take a real pic once i get the whites up and running. Link to comment
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