High Nitrates - need some ideas

[oakreef]

I have a 29 gallon Biocube with high nitrates (> 40 ppm) and I've been working for weeks on reducing them. I ditched the Bio Balls 2 weeks ago and put in live rock, some Seachem DeNitrate in a bag and some Kent Marine Reef Carbon in a bag. Plus I'm adding some Seachem Prime daily. Nitrates are still high, despite 15% water changes every other day. All the other tests (Ph, Kh, Calcium, Nitrite, Ammonia) are OK. I also tested my RO and saltwater and both have zero Nitrates. One of my big soft corals died already, as have most of my turbosnails.

 

I have had the Oceanic skimmer for months and it's useless. I'm assuming step 1 is to get a better skimmer.

 

I've researched online and people are happy with the Tunze 9002 skimmer. For the Tunze to fit without modifying the hood, you have to replace the collection cup. I found a company on line that makes a media basket for the center chamber that will fit with either skimmer, and a new cup for the Tunze so it fits. See: Home - inTank, LLC I'm considering getting the new skimmer and the basket so I don't have to modify my lid. You do have to punch out the false bottom in the middle section. They also have a You Tube video showing how to set it all up.

 

So, my question for the forum is: should I just stick with the live rock and put the Tunze skimmer with the live rock in the back center chamber (potentially reducing the amount of live rock), or go with the media basket solution? On their site they recommend using the media basket to hold filter floss, Purigen and Chemi-Pure Elite in the center chamber with the skimmer, so I'd be pulling out the live rock. See Demo Rack with Tunze which shows a BC29 setup.

 

My heater is in the chamber with my pump, so if I go with the media basket they recommend, should I put the live rock in the first chamber, where the Oceanic skimmer is now? Or don't I need the additional live rock if I do that?

 

Any opinions? Other suggestions? I only have 3 fish (Yellow Tang, Tomato Clown and a Hawkfish), and am feeding them every other day.

 

Thanks in advance!

[Deleted User 6]

inTank is a sponsor here - makes good stuff. I say buy it.

 

You're going to have to get rid of the tang. The tank is way too small for it. Sorry.

 

Look into Biocube fuge mods in one of the chambers.

[Land0]

Are you putting LR rubble in the back? If so, definatly ditch that it's just as bad as bioballs. I BC 29 as well and had a nitrate problem that was fixed with the addition of that media rack your talking about along with some macro in a fuge. If you are still using the stock filter I highly suggest ditching that piece for the media rack.

[disaster999]

live rock rumble in the back chambers result in nitrates is highly debated on. i had a 14gal aio and had LRR in the back and my nitrates were 0. i cant never get it to go above 5ppm. go figure

 

but what you could do is do a large water change. 50% or more to lower your nitrates faster. i would also check your source of water and see if theres any nitrate. are you using tap water or RO/DI water? what test kit are you using?

 

run a fuge also, that would also help absorb some of the nitrates.

[oakreef]

Thanks, all.

 

I've tested both my ocean water and my RO water and both show zero nitrates.

 

I am ordering the InTank set up. I spoke to Steve today, and he echoed the issue of removing the live rock, it being a trap in the low flow area in the back. He also suggested replacing the stock pump with a RIO 6HF and adding a Koralia #2. I'll be getting the Tunze skimmer, obviously.

 

I failed to mention that an anemone died many months ago and we couldn't find it back then. It's probably completely disintegrated by now, but could be a possible cause of the nitrate problem.

 

I also just got my refractometer today to ensure I replace the water with the same salinity if I do a big water change. The Nitrate test I'm using is from the API master test kit. I did read an online article on a German reef site that showed all the tests are not accurate, but I'm getting zero for my water and really should be getting the same for my tank.

 

As for a fuge, do I need to do a lighting upgrade if I add one?

 

Thanks again!

[ReefEscape]

You may want to try a ball of Cheato behind your rocks, or in a plastic soap dish suction cupped to the side of your display. Just make sure that it is getting good flow. That way you don't need to add any more lights and it will help to reduce your nitrates.

[kgehrke]

I agree with disaster999, do a large water change. Make sure the water is heated, and mixed well before adding it. Six hours or more of mix time should be fine.

 

Test your nitrates with another persons test kit and see if you get the same readings.

 

Take out the tang. Not only is it too big for that aquarium, but they also contaminate water fast.

 

Really monitor your feeding. Once every other day is a good start, just don't add more than the fish can eat in about one and a half to two minutes.

 

What are you feeding?

 

Good luck, this is one of the hardest problems reefers deal with.

[Treo360]

I too was having a problem with high Nitrates in my biocube. I ditched the bioballs for a CPR skimmer, added more substrate (I'm at 60 lbs of sand/crushed coral) upgraded the stock pump to a Mj-1800 and installed a Phosphate Reactor as well as running some Purigen.

 

I'm at 10 ppm down from 40

[nanoreefer4life]

29 biocube is clear in back right? If I were u I would buy macro algae and grow it back there.

 

1. Natural way of reducing nitrates

2. Out competes against algae

3. Good way for pods to develop back there

 

how old is ur tank? Most ppl get carried away with fish in their tanks...(speaking from experience). After a while fish can make the water unstable because of the acids they add to the water. I think u might have too many fish in ur tank. If ur running a fish only tank u might be ok but u might have algae problems later...

 

I would say.....bring back two fish for store credit and get ur water back to good conditions. Slowly introduce a cleaning crew and maybe a fish

[oakreef]

Thanks everyone. Status so far, with a few questions:

 

- media basket in place with filter floss, purigen & chem plus elite. per their site recommendation. I removed the plastic piece of the tank divider to get more flow. My heater is now in chamber 1.

- Tunze skimmer was DOA, new one shipped by MarineDepot today. QUESTION: I'm having trouble getting the water level right for it not to be above the filter floss basket. If i get it up to where Tunze says it should be, the level is way too high for the media basket. I've placed it at the level shown in the InTank video.

- RIO 6HF just arrived. QUESTION: Is there a way to get it to fit with the stock tubing, or do I have to get some flexible vinyl hose for it to work?

- Koralia 2 in place. Thought it was DOA, it needed the impeller removed and put back in to get unstuck

- Koralia hydroflor for the inlet - keeps falling off, I plan to super glue it in place when I put in the new pump. QUESTION: Is that safe/advisable? Do I need it if I have the Koralia 2?

 

Thanks!

[oakreef]

Never mind on the pump. The Rio now comes with an adjustable shutoff connector that fits the pump on one side and the stock hose on the BC29. I'm up and running.

 

And I used the super glue on the hdroflor. We'll see how long it lasts.

 

The water level issue is still there. Maybe it will resolve itself with a working Tunze.

[imagex]

This is what i have... it was cheap and for the bc 29 it didnt seem like it needed much but now i have 6 fish and 1 shrimp and tons of coral and it seems to keep the nitrates down.. just put it in chamber 1 and it'll just hang there... worth a shot it's cheap...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Pro...=item518dafbe37

 

Oh sorry didnt read u had a skimmer already... also how much live rock do you have in the tank??? i have about 30 to 40 lbs... and i'm running chaeto too... also dunno if your skilled enough to try vodka dosing but thats another option too...