ceelston Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I'm getting ready to move to my new place and have noticed rather high nitrate levels at my old place. I have been living at my new place for about a month and haven't had time to move my BC29 yet. Yes, unfortunately I haven't been to my old place to maintain as I usually do. The lights are timed, I do weekly water changes, and feed normally as well. I'm there a few times a week, but I am usually there daily to maintain and keep them healthy. The fish haven't had any issues and my polyps and coral seem to be doing just fine and aren't showing any unhealthy signs. To help with the high nitrate issue and because I don't have enough buckets to transfer everything, I was thinking about doing a majority water change. I have enough bucket space to take half of the water including the LR, sand, and bioballs. I would rather change more than half of the water if not all, of course with acclimation and keeping the bioballs in their current state. I know doing a 100% water change would probably be unsafe, but I was wondering how much I could safely change to not only avoid hauling all the water to my new place (on the top floor... gah!) but also to help with nitrates. I can transfer the half I have buckets for if need be, anything to keep them safe and avoid a catastrophe. Thanks for any advice from you pros and those that have gone through the move which seems inevitable for most of us at some point. Link to comment
lakshwadeep Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 You may want to start out with new sand. Also, the bio-balls are likely the main cause for high nitrates as they can get clogged with detritus and become "nitrate factories". Bio-balls are not needed in a tank with live rock. Link to comment
ceelston Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 I know the bioballs aren't required, but I do pull out the bioballs and rinse them each water change in the outgoing water so I didn't think it'd hurt any. Think it's negatively affecting the tank? And what do you think replacing the sand will do? Think it's being a nitrate factory for the tank? And also, about the water, what do you think would be a safe amount to change? Thanks. Link to comment
nor_cal_nano Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I know the bioballs aren't required, but I do pull out the bioballs and rinse them each water change in the outgoing water so I didn't think it'd hurt any. Think it's negatively affecting the tank? And what do you think replacing the sand will do? Think it's being a nitrate factory for the tank? And also, about the water, what do you think would be a safe amount to change? Thanks. 100% water changes are pretty common after moving; as is replacing the sand bed. I'm sure lak will chime back in though and set us straight. =D Link to comment
Militant Jurist Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 100% water changes are pretty common after moving; as is replacing the sand bed. Well, you're going to need tank water to keep your LR, corals, and/or fish submerged, so I'd say at least bring that much water. The reason for replacing the sand bed is that junk can get trapped beneath the sand. In a stable tank, it doesn't present too much trouble. However, after disturbing the sand bed in the process of removing rocks, draining water, etc, you could get another cycle after re-filling the tank. Replacing the sand bed (typically with dry arag sand, not live sand) is just a safety precaution. Link to comment
nor_cal_nano Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Well, you're going to need tank water to keep your LR, corals, and/or fish submerged, so I'd say at least bring that much water. I thought that went without saying... But, after its all transported, there's nothing wrong with replacing all 100% of the water correct. The significant amount of denitrifying bacteria should be ON the liverock and not in the water column? Link to comment
Militant Jurist Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I thought that went without saying... But, after its all transported, there's nothing wrong with replacing all 100% of the water correct. The significant amount of denitrifying bacteria should be ON the liverock and not in the water column? That is very true. However, my concern was more toward the stability for the corals et al. If you are doing a 100% WC immediately after the move, you'll want to make sure that the water is the same salinity, temperature, and alkalinity as the original water. It's usually best to avoid too much of a shock. If you don't want to bring along much in the way of water, I'd think that a 50% change would be fine. Link to comment
nor_cal_nano Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 That is very true. However, my concern was more toward the stability for the corals et al. If you are doing a 100% WC immediately after the move, you'll want to make sure that the water is the same salinity, temperature, and alkalinity as the original water. It's usually best to avoid too much of a shock. If you don't want to bring along much in the way of water, I'd think that a 50% change would be fine. good point. Link to comment
lakshwadeep Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 Rinsing the bio-balls helps a lot, but that sounds like a hassle and opportunity for you to get lazy. With large water changes, you should try to match the original water as close as possible (temp, salinity, etc.) Link to comment
youincolor Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 Wouldn't rinsing the bio balls often defeat the purpose of having them anyway since you're washing off the bacteria? I don't know why people are still using a 20 year old system that is proven to not only not help, but to hurt your tank. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.