Coral Life 24" 2x65w for 20g H?

[Buzz]

I was wondering if a Coral Life 24" 2x65 w (1, 10000k 1, actinic) Strip would be adequate lighting for a 20 g High Nano. I would like to be able to keep some corals which demand higer light. Will this be enough. If not what are my limitations with THIS fixture?

 

Thanks

[hebdizzle]

Your best bet for the dimensions of this tank are a 150 or 175 W metal halide, because of the extra depth of the tank. However, the power compacts will still be sufficient to keep all softies and a lot of LPS, i'm sure. For the best growth and for SPS's, definately get the halide. It can be set up (if your layout permits) for a little more than the compacts.

 

Aaron

[Dave ESPI]

I'd say NOPE.

 

Many SPS. LPS, CLAMS, are out of reach.

[Buzz]

Dave,

 

Then would a 15 gallons depth allow me to keep the some sps and lps with the same amount of light?

 

THANKS

[Buzz]

Would I be able to add more wattage with pcs to the mentioned hood in order to keep sps and lps in a 20 h? If so how much power compact wattage do you recommend

 

Thanks

[Dave ESPI]

Go Halide. then you can keep what ever to your heart content.

 

FWIW, a 15 gallon Versus a 20 gallon tank is almost the same dims. Go with a 175 MH and an actinic 32 W.

 

Your future inhabitants will LUV U

[wetworx101]

They are right. I had a 20H with 2x65watters going. It didnt take me long to want to put another 65 on. I even had a thick sand bed so the tank's maximum depth was less than a 15L. But another 65 watter wouldnt do as much as I wanted...195watts of power compact is good, but not as good as even one 150watt halide. The extra power compact wouldnt even add up to enough for clams or acro really. The intensity & quality of the light just isnt there. Turns out the halide is cooler too because is doesnt take up the whole top of the tank (and the glass cover is gone as well), as well as being farther from the surface so even though a halide is hotter, it transfers less heat to the tank, especially since I only need to run it for 6-8 hours a day unlike the PCs that had to be on 11+ hours every day. The best solution for a 20H reef is a halide...150wattHQI or 175. Either one with a bulb of at least 14,000K can be run by itself since the halide is blue enough then without actinic, but is optional if you want, or run a bulb that is 10,000K or less.

 

Hey ESPI, I'm actually surprised you didnt tear into the guy, this question has to have been asked a few dozen times already.

 

Juat to point you in the right direction, try premium aquatics, marinedepot, or championlighting. Any one of these sells good halide fixtures and retros. It seems everone's favorite ballasts are the icecap...I agree, but also like the PFO electronic and HQI ballasts. Fixtures are your choice...retrofit/DIY or premade enclosure. I like the PFO and sunlight supply horizontal pendants. The bulb is pure personal taste. I like Iwasaki and Belgian Made bulbs. Hope that helps.

[Dave ESPI]

Wetworks, he isn't drooling........

 

yet

 

and he is from November, not October.... he at least tried to do some VB code, and that has merit ... it kinda shows that he cares about how his thread looks.

(PS: BUZ, go back and edit that first ya need a / in it to close it d00d )

FWIW, yeah, the topic IS covered, but not as of the past 3 pages, and his post was at least worded decently.

 

Post smart, Get help.

Post dumb, get burnt.

It's just that simple.

 

Buz, look into Custom Sealife retro kits. They are a bit more Bling Bling than the PFO, but are a better unit in the long run. Oh, and get the Iwasaki bulbs

[wetworx101]

I thought the CSL fixture that has the power compacts was in fact a PFO...they look identical at least. I thought someone told me that at least.