Dosing Vodka

[DCG1286]

Vodka is good.

 

Fully agreed ... I have a nice stash under the tank

 

to answer your question here, I'm currently using Elos HCAA's. I used Warner Marine before with good results, just went through it too fast. I've been using Elos for a couple of months now and have barely even put a dent in the bottle.

 

my tank gets three olives. my wife bought a bottle of it a while back and didn't like it. my corals seem to think it's good though.

 

Hey Glenn how do you like the Elos HCAA? I seen some good results in peoples tanks that have been using it ... I have one of the bottles from here http://www.korallen-zucht.de/ ... a friend of mine gave it to me to try (he was too chicken s*** to use it himself ... lol) Been working wonders on the tank!

 

EDIT: I was going to use brightwells AA but maybe I'll use elos'. I just didn't wanna wait for shipping

 

I have the brightwell too ... didn't really do all that much ... they gave me it for free at the shop since they were getting rid of all the Brightwell stuff.

[glennr1978]

I like the Elos AA's. It seems to be working. I'm getting good color, and growth, but I've changed so much in my tank over the last couple of months that it's impossible to pinpoint exactly what has helped, and what hasn't

[DCG1286]

I like the Elos AA's. It seems to be working. I'm getting good color, and growth, but I've changed so much in my tank over the last couple of months that it's impossible to pinpoint exactly what has helped, and what hasn't

 

Yeah I hear you ... same deal here ... switching products ... changing things up ... etc.etc. Hey if it looks good must be doing something right

[Phixion]

I hate to start posts like these to entice the few that stumble upon this and start dosign without understanding how it works and then crashses there tank so please do your research as it really isnt' a dosing and move on because you need to keep track of several parameters along with a dialed in skimmer.

 

If this post is your first introduction to vodka dosing, I suggest not dosing using UH's figure even though it's right to a certain extent

 

Definitely some +1 good advice right there Babyham.

[DCG1286]

Definitely some +1 good advice right there Babyham.

 

+2 ... lmao!!! otherwise people will start running for their liquor cabinets

[TR3XX]

Do you any of you guys use BrightWell's MicroBacter 7 with your vodka dosing? This product seem to compliment carbon dosing very well by providing non-pathogenic bacteria to help prevent cyano. I'm on week 3 of my dosing with carbon/MB7 and so far no signs of cyano. I was turned onto this product from some folks on RC. Just curious to know if anyone else in the nano world is using it.

[D3monic]

yea 5 or six posts up from urs. I use reef biofuel instead of vodka though.

 

I dont dose vodka but I do dose carbon via Brightwells reef biofuel in conjunction with Microbacter7. I have a way overstocked 28gal. Got to love the NeoZeo method. I do 5gal water changes once to twice a week. If I wasnt so lazy I would do a 2gal water change a day.

 

Synopsis:

Maintaining ultra-low (e.g. immeasurable) nutrient concentrations in reef aquaria and

precisely-controlling the inorganic and organic substances entering the system can

result in vibrant coloration of zooxanthellate corals and their allies. The method

described below can accomplish this task. It should be stated from the onset that this

method will only produce dramatic results if it is employed continuously, and as

directed (with slight adjustments made to dosing as dictated by the appearance of the

aquarium inhabitants). It is an interesting, highly-effective method of maintaining reef

aquaria that is without question geared to the more “hands-on”, experienced reef

aquarium enthusiast.

 

 

 

Stated simply, this method removes undesirable nutrients and provides beneficial

nutrients. To be slightly more descriptive, it:

 

• Extracts phosphate, ammonia, and dissolved organic material from aquarium

water by direct adsorption.

• Limits production of nitrate and minimizes the presence of latent organic

material in the system.

• Provides specific organic and inorganic substances for the express purpose of

enhancing health, growth, and vibrant coloration of corals and their allies.

 

 

 

 

Note:

It should be stated that we are not claiming to have pioneered the method described

herein by titling this document “The Brightwell Aquatics NeoZeo Method”; we are

simply outlining the method utilizing Brightwell Aquatics supplements and filtration

media for the reference of interested reef enthusiasts. Additionally, no amount of

tinkering with methods of filtration or nutrient supplementation will provide the

desired results if the remaining water parameters and physical conditions are not

within the proper ranges; it is presumed that temperature, pH, alkalinity, and the

concentrations of magnesium, calcium, potassium, strontium, and important minor

and trace elements in an aquarium are properly maintained, and that lighting and

water flow are adjusted to address the needs of the aquarium inhabitants, in any

system in which the NeoZeo (or similar) method is employed. For many aquarists, this

is a somewhat complex system when first reviewed; we can just hear people saying

“Ye gads!” (or the like) once they have finished reading this document. Be assured that

the information provided below is meant to be a comprehensive introduction to the

method, but that there are bound to be exceptions or conditions presenting

themselves within specific aquaria that necessitate some degree of divergence from

general dosing recommendations made; therefore, it is up to each aquarist to know

their system well, for this method relies heavily on attention to detail (specifically the

impact that individual components utilized have on the appearance of aquarium

inhabitants, and this only comes with time and experience).

 

 

 

Throughout this document, the word “nutrient” will appear many times. It is used in

the broadest possible context, adhering to the definition of a nutrient being a

substance that provides sustenance.

 

 

 

Discussion:

Maintaining a healthy reef aquarium (or any aquarium, for that matter) is largely

dependant upon limiting the concentrations of nutrients such as nitrate and

phosphate; in doing so, the general health of the inhabitants tends to be relatively

high (presumably because more attention is being paid to water quality) and the

appearance of the system remains more pristine. So-called “nuisance organisms” such

as filamentous algae and cyanobacteria are rarely visible in systems with

immeasurable phosphate, and stony corals maintained in such systems are generally

more vibrantly-colored as opposed to being predominantly brown or a shade thereof

(an appearance that is the result of the high population density of zooxanthellae in the

coral tissue, caused in large part by an elevated phosphate concentration in the

system). Photosynthetic organisms require a usable source of phosphorus and

nitrogen if they are to survive and flourish, so some small amount of these elements

must be present for these organisms, and their symbionts, to survive; the key is to

provide the nutrients directly to the organisms in an appropriate form and limit their

“free” concentration in the reef aquarium. There’s nothing revolutionary about this concept; rather, the method in which it is accomplished (as described in this

document) is somewhat new.

 

 

 

The NeoZeo method can be dissected into two main areas of focus: Nutrient

Limitation and Nutrient Supplementation. While we will examine them individually, it

is extremely important to state that this system relies on a balanced combination of

the two aspects in order to provide positive results. It is extremely simple to strip the

important substances out of an aquarium to the point that the aquarium inhabitants

begin to suffer and perish; it is even simpler to overload an aquarium with organic

and/or inorganic substances, resulting in the same fate of the inhabitants (albeit by

different means).

 

 

Nutrient Limitation

 

As previously mentioned, controlling the concentrations of nutrients, and their

precursors, in reef aquaria is extremely important; the long-term overall health of the

system is highly reliant upon it. This entails extracting dissolved and particulate

organic material, as well as phosphate and nitrogenous molecules such as ammonia,

nitrite, and nitrate from the system efficiently and effectively. In the past, aquarists

have utilized protein skimming, activated carbon, and ion-exchange resins in

conjunction with the natural biological and chemical reactions taking place within

sediment and porous substrates to accomplish this goal. The aspect of this method

that makes it “unique” is the utilization of a family of selective zeolites for the dual

purpose of extracting ammonia/ammonium and providing a substrate for the

colonization of beneficial microbes. It follows that an aquarium with efficient

extraction of ammonia before it is utilized in the nitrification process will have a very

limited propensity for nitrate accumulation. Similarly, by extracting dissolved and

particulate organic material from the water before it has a chance to be broken down

via microbial processes and/or photodegradation, the constituents of that material are

not released into the system; this is accomplished through protein skimming and the

use of high-quality activated carbon. The rates of nitrogen and phosphorus input and

the presence of adequate organic carbon largely determine whether or not some

amount of measurable nitrate and/or phosphate persist in an aquarium; nitrate is

removed via denitrification and/or the use of a sulfur reactor, and phosphate is

addressed by utilizing some form of phosphate-adsorption media. The ultimate goal

is to maintain microbial biomass production at such a rate that the concentrations of

nitrate and phosphate never become measurable.

 

 

 

Biological Nutrient Limitation (Microbes and Organic Carbon)

 

The role that microbes play in a zeolite filtration method is extremely important: they

convert nutrients existing in excessive concentrations into biomass, which is then (in

the case of planktonic bacteria, or “bacterioplankton”) consumed by corals and other

suspension-feeding organisms and utilized in biological processes, and/or removed

from the aquarium by protein skimming. The process may be thought of as nutrient

recycling and export, and in that regard it provides some of the same benefits that a

refugium housing macroalgae provides; the main difference is that the nutrients

assimilated into microbial biomass are at least partially available to corals, which is not

the case when it comes to nutrients assimilated into macroalgae tissue. A percentage

of the microbes form biofilms on inanimate objects (often appearing as a brownish

film on the panes of the aquarium), which can be brushed off and captured by

aquarium inhabitants and skimmer intakes, again exporting nutrients from the system;

we will return to the topic of biofilm shortly. Before we move on, it is likely that some

readers will ask the questions, “Why is this means of nutrient export any different than

the natural processes taking place within any cycled aquarium? Microbes are going to

colonize the NeoZeo media regardless of seeding it. What’s the big deal?” The

primary difference between a “traditional” system in which biological filtration media

is set into place and allowed to become passively populated with microbes and a

system in which a select group of microbes is supplemented on an ongoing basis is

that (again) the enthusiast maintains more control over the rate of nutrient export,

and simultaneously encourages the biological processing of various substances

known to negatively impact water clarity and/or the health of the aquarium

inhabitants.

 

 

 

 

It is here that the discussion turns to carbon limitation and the implications

this has with regards to the ability of microbes to assimilate phosphorus and nitrogen.

Covering this topic requires elementary thinking and relies on the ratios of nutrient

uptake in bacteria being somewhat analogous to that of marine phytoplankton.

 

 

 

Using the molar ratios of 106:16:1 C:N:P (carbon : nitrogen : phosphorus) in marine

phytoplankton as a model for nutrient uptake in bacteria, it follows that bacteria

require considerable carbon to assimilate nitrogen and (particularly) phosphorus. In a

system with low- to immeasurable-concentrations of nitrate and phosphate, there is

presumably sufficient organic C present to enable bacteria to utilize the N and P that is

available; resultantly, bacterial biomass is regulated by the relative abundance of N

and P. Conversely, in a system with relatively high concentrations of nitrate or

phosphate (e.g. one that tends to be heavily-fed), their uptake by bacteria will be

inhibited by inadequate organic C. The solution is to supplement the system with

organic C, which enables assimilation of the existing N and P into bacterial biomass.

As previously described, the bacteria, and hence the N and P, are then removed from

the system via filtration and/or converted into biomass of suspension-feeding

organisms capturing bacterioplankton and pieces of biofilm that become dislodged

from static surfaces

[TR3XX]

good stuff D3. i'm probably going to switch to reef biofuel since putting vodka into the tank seem like such a waste to me. i rather have it go in my stomach

[Kraylen]

ZeoVit FTW.

[Urchinhead]

I dose .08 for my 20 gallons, it's really 24ish with the sump but I'll dose less. .08 is only my starting. I'll kick it up soon and find my maintenance level soon.

 

I hate to start posts like these to entice the few that stumble upon this and start dosign without understanding how it works and then crashses there tank so please do your research as it really isnt' a dosing and move on because you need to keep track of several parameters along with a dialed in skimmer.

 

If this post is your first introduction to vodka dosing, I suggest not dosing using UH's figure even though it's right to a certain extent

 

EDIT: I was going to use brightwells AA but maybe I'll use elos'. I just didn't wanna wait for shipping

 

She is half right. My number is factually correct per the published literature. a ratio of 0.1 ml aka 1 microliter per 25 gallons. If you are below 25 gallons then run the math to figure out what % you are below 25 gallons (in her case 20 gallons is 80% of 25 gallons) and multiply accordingly.

 

They key point not to overlook here is the following: Dosing this is risky. You must not do it without a skimmer and you must not over do it.

 

And on the subject of Vodka vs. Zeovit and/or other bacterial culture supplements... Vodka is cheaper and gets you the same thing. Plus you can enjoy it yourself. 0.1 ml per 25 gallons of water volume for your tank 20 ml of vodka for you. Just don't dose yourself and your tank at the same time or within 4 hours of taking your last dose.

[Phixion]

I concur, you can't drink ZeoVit!

[reefman225gal]

I've never tried vodka dosing myself, so I really can't say if its beneficial or not, although some anecdotal reports have been positive about its use, but I haven't really seen many long term reports on the effect it might have (positive or negative). In the link below Chuck brings up some interesting points about some of the long term effects it might have on the health of your aquarium inhabitants, and he also gives a link at the bottom of the page with Eric Borneman's thoughts on vodka dosing.

 

 

http://www.chucksaddiction.com/dosingsugar.html

 

Edit: Spelling.

[DCG1286]

Maybe I missed it here ... but Babyham why did you chose to dose vodka in your tank?

[Babyham6]

Help reduce nutrients in an SPS dominated tank where they can prevail and grow like weeds (not like they aren't already ).

 

A.K.A. Crowd control - I choose what I want in my tank even down to the bacteria. I now dose Elos Omega - Thank you Glennr.

[reefman225gal]

I choose what I want in my tank even down to the bacteria

It sounds good now. I was just providing some info on the subject that you might not been aware of, I hope the vodka dosing works for ya.

Good Luck

[DashingAquatics]

I dose .7 ml every morning and I do a 10% water change once per week, ussually every Sunday. I used this link here as a guideline.

 

I am currently useing a Tunze 9002 skimmer, I find it works well. I use insulin needles from the drug store for a percise dose every time.

 

As for Vodka I'm useing a mid range 40% howver it has not been proven yet that higher grades of Vodka have better results.

 

My .02

[MedRed]

Has anyone thought about using Flourish Excel?

 

It's a mainstay in planted tanks as a carbon supplement and also used to kill hair algae.