LED Retrofit for JBJ Nano Cube 24 DX

[GaryR1984]

It wouldn't hurt, BioCube stands come with holes in the back already, I'm surprised that the JBJ Ones do not.

[Roxyplace]

Man why did you post this.? LOL

 

The whole idea on a DIY project is you think you can do it for almost nothing. And you should never add up the receipts, so in your head (and the story you tell your wife) is a lot less.

 

There is no tricking your self now!

 

 

 

 

I am now plunging into my own led lighting system after spending hours & hours reading & researching. First off I wanna thank evilc66, soundwave & Waterproof whose articles I have read which prompted me to begin this little project. I am a visual person with little to no electrical skills but I have a friend who will be drilling/tapping. I can solder and wire I am sure. This light will be going back into my stock hood.

 

My tank is a JBJ Nano Cube 24 DX It is 24 gallons. I have some monti, colt & some paly/zoa's. I am looking to keep anything I wish from SPS to mushrooms, water depth to sandbed is 15 1/2" from light. I have a material list & some pictures worked up to show my plans at this time. I am looking for opinions and whatever advice I can get. hum gah hum (begins LED Gawd chant). Thanks in advance.

 

 

My Tank

 

Heatsink & LED placement plan

 

In Tank Placement

 

Materials List

 

Cree XR-E Q5 White PCB Mounted - ETGTech.com - 12 @ $6.00 ea = $72.00

Cree XR-E Royal Blue PCB Mounted - ETGTech.com - 12 @ $6.00 ea = $72.00

Cree XR-E Part#XLSL-7090-247 60 Degree Optics with Holder - ETGTech.com - 24 @ $1.00 each = $24.00

*Email anna@etgtech.com for your quotes

Wired BuckPuck Drivers 1000mA External Dimming Control w/ Potentiometer- LEDSupply - 4 @ $19.99 ea = $79.96

Heatsink - 12" x 7.29" - HeatsinkUSA - $35.55 shipped

Artic Silver AS5-3.5G, Thermal Grease - Already Have

Screws 100 Qty - McMaster Carr - Stainless Steel size 4-40 X 3/8" Part#91773A108 - $3.75

Washers 100 Qty - McMaster Carr - Nylon 6/6 Flat Washer #4 Part#90295A045- $2.48

5 @ $ 2.59 TC258 DC Power Cord, 2.5 x 5.5mm Plug to Bare Leads, 6FT/18awg - Willy's Electronics - $12.95

5 @ $1.59 248 DC Jack, 2.5MM x 5.5MM, Panel Mount, Plastic Housing - Willy's Electronics - $7.95

WH24-08-25 Gray 24 Gauge Stranded, 25' Spool - Willy's Electronics - $3.10

WH24-04-25 Yellow 24 Gauge Stranded, 25' Spool - Willy's Electronics - $3.10

50-3000 Qualitek 60/40 0.032" Solder: 0.6 oz Tube - Willy's Electronics - $2.29

Electrical Tape 3M 700 Vinyl - Lowes Item#39340 - $1.89

Kobalt Tapping Bit 4-40 & Drill Bit #43- Lowes Item#232566- 2 @$4.08 - $8.16

Kobalt T-handle Tap Wrench - Lowes Item#232605 - $4.79

Flat Aluminum Bar 1/16" x 3/4" x 6' - Lowes Item#216058 - $7.08

Fans - SilenX - Will use if needed

Heatshrink Polyolefin - Already Have

Power Supply 24V @ 6.5A POTRANS POWER SUPPLY - MPJA.com - $14.95

6FT IEC Power Cord UL LISTED - MPJA.com - $2.49

4 @ $ .75 ALCO PKG-70, 1/8" Shaft Red Knob - MPJA.com - $3.00

5.9" X 3.9" X 2.36" Black Plastic Box - MPJA.com - $3.49

30 Watt Soldering Tool Set GT1096 JL-006 - MPJA.com $7.95

Shipping Charges - $33.53

Sandpaper Wet/Dry 400/800/1000 - AutoZone or other Car parts store - $4.50

 

So as of now I am spending $410.96.

Doing this DIY project I would like to bring the cost dooowwwnnn like most people would while getting it right the first time. I spent a few hours shopping prices so I am comfortable with those listed.

 

My questions as of now are:

1. Am I using the correct amount of leds? too many too few?
   
2. How do I get the cost down?
   
3. Will I need optics with my water depth being 15 1/2"?
   
4. Where do i get a good inexpensive power supply?
   
5. Might I have a power supply laying around the house? We have lots of electrical "junk laying around.
   
6. Should I use UV LEDS at all?
   
7. Am I missing anything or buying unneeded item(s)
   

 

 

I now await any advice or criticism on my project. Once I get it right and order I will document the entire process via pictures and text. Thank you again for your time and thoughts.

 

Scott

 

Edited Materials List

[JoeJ]

Nice update on the PSU/fan/box. I was concerned about that open PSU with all the sea water that I usually spill during a simple water change.

 

You may want to incorporate a coarse filter sponge for the airflow to keep debris from entering the box.

 

And FYI: I did have heat issues during Max LED intensity output with the 3 power adapters on my 5' AI LED to where I've had to use a fan to cool them off. They're hidden in a small cabinet. I've also got them hooked up to a decent power surge protector.

 

I wonder about the stability of the PSUs over time? Any reported issues from others? But, I think adding the fans would probably help extend lifetime.

[Minadin]

Man why did you post this.? LOL

 

The whole idea on a DIY project is you think you can do it for almost nothing. And you should never add up the receipts, so in your head (and the story you tell your wife) is a lot less.

 

There is no tricking your self now!

 

Luckily my wife does not read this board.

 

Scott

[McJosh13]

The whole idea on a DIY project is you think you can do it for almost nothing. And you should never add up the receipts, so in your head (and the story you tell your wife) is a lot less.

 

There is no tricking your self now!

 

 

Right on!

[Minadin]

Well the fans are installed & wire management is done! Here are some new pics of end result. I still have to cut out the back of stand for another fan. Will update when I do.

 

 

 

Time for some Pina Colada Mix & Superior Bacardi Clear

Scott

[evilc66]

Time for some Pina Colada Mix & Superior Bacardi Clear

Scott

 

You got the weather for it today.

[Minadin]

You got the weather for it today.

 

Yes sir 72degrees Clear & Sunny. Pina Colada & Acid Blue Connecticut.

 

 

See you all later

Scott

[ntlwhsle]

HI Minadin.. awesome build that you did! I have a jbj 24 Gal as well and wanted to do the same build that you did. from what I saw you ended up taking off some of your optics. is that because you were burning the rock that was close to the LED's?

 

now that you have had the tank running for a while how is it going? would you recommend any changes to what you did?

 

are you able to keep SPS on the sand bed?

 

thanks for your really helpful post!

 

ntlwhsle

[ntlwhsle]

Also i wanted to ask you if you have an algae problem with all those LED's?

[Minadin]

HI Minadin.. awesome build that you did! I have a jbj 24 Gal as well and wanted to do the same build that you did. from what I saw you ended up taking off some of your optics. is that because you were burning the rock that was close to the LED's?

 

now that you have had the tank running for a while how is it going? would you recommend any changes to what you did?

 

are you able to keep SPS on the sand bed?

 

thanks for your really helpful post!

 

ntlwhsle

 

 

ntlwhsle,

 

Thanks for the compliment. I took off all my optics because they were burning white circles into the rock. Some of my rock is as close as 1 1/2" from surface of water.

 

The tank is running fine I got some more frags and now have them in. All my softies are going strong actually really multiplying. My 3 frags of monti got burned up before I took optics off. I have a new piece of monti and 1 acro in now and they seem to be fine but more time will tell.

 

Changes I would recommend would be have a clean & clear work area. Have all products at hand before starting. Choose if you need optics for EVERY led, otherwise a dollar wasted is a dollar wasted. My finished product itself is very very clean in my opinion.

 

I can keep SPS on bed if I choose to move back rock about 3-4". However I like the "coral on tiered levels" look if you can make sense of that.

 

As far as algae is concerned everything went away. The green on rocks, the brown everywhere, even the glass. Now I am getting purple/pink coralline and hard green on acrylic. There are now plants growing but still do not able to id till they get larger.

 

Here's some updated pics, I finally figured out after a year NOT to use the auto macro setting on my camera.

 

 

Now all I need are some more colorful frags. Remember to notify me before sending donations

Thanks for your interest.

[ntlwhsle]

Nice pics! looks like things are doing well in there. I had a few more questions if you dont mind.

 

1. I have some high areas in my tank and some low areas. With the optics 60 degree do you recommend that I not have optics over the high spots and put them in the low areas? i guess the best thing to do is to get a PAR meter, but I dont have access to one.

 

2. on the knobs on the top of your tank that is to control brightness correct? in what scenario would you want to run the LED's at 100% or scale them back?

 

3. Would you lay out your LED pattern any different then what you did as far as more lights or different placements?

 

thanks!

[Minadin]

Nice pics! looks like things are doing well in there. I had a few more questions if you dont mind.

 

1. I have some high areas in my tank and some low areas. With the optics 60 degree do you recommend that I not have optics over the high spots and put them in the low areas? i guess the best thing to do is to get a PAR meter, but I dont have access to one.

 

2. on the knobs on the top of your tank that is to control brightness correct? in what scenario would you want to run the LED's at 100% or scale them back?

 

3. Would you lay out your LED pattern any different then what you did as far as more lights or different placements?

 

thanks!

 

#1 I would suggest optics over low areas and none over high.

 

#2 The knobs control brightness. It allows you to acclimate upon first installing, but for me mainly let me adjust to the color rate I like, 10K 14K 20K etc.

 

#3 I think I have the perfect layout personally. I might would add 2 UV led's in leftmid and rightmid but then again things seem to be fine without them.

[shouldabenacowboy]

Just wanted to say that your project looks great!

 

I am considering doing this to my AP24 as soon as work lets up a little.

 

I do have a question/favor to ask of you. With all LEDs turned on at full intensity, do you know what kind of current draw you have? I was trying to see what kind of "actual" power consumption we are dealing with.

 

From the specs I can assume that 24v * 4A ( 4 buckpucks @ 1000ma) = 96w and since power is constant 96w/115v = 835mA.

 

When I ran my current lights (4 * 32w PC) through an amp meter it showed 740mA.

 

If your numbers are close to that of the specs, then the LEDs are more expensive to run than my current setup.:bling:

 

Thanks for your help

 

SBC

[evilc66]

What you are not realizing is the the performance levels are now close to or higher than a 150W MH. Now you have a 30% savings in power usage.

 

It also shows that your PCs are underdriven. 4*32W=128W, but you measured 81.4W

[shouldabenacowboy]

After measuring current I see now that my PCs are underdriven...

 

I was curious to see a real world measurment from a LED setup. If someone is going to be replacing a 150w MH fixture with this setup a 30% reduction in power usage is quit noticable. If someone would replace a 70w MH fixture (or in my case a 128w PC fixture operating at 82w) with this setup a 30% increase in power consumption would also be quite noticable.... and yes I realize that converting to this LED setup is a HUGE inprovement in lighting vs a 70w MH.

 

I was looking for some "real" power consumption data to calculate energy savings in addition to bulb replacment savings to see if this project was worth taking on.

 

SBC

[evilc66]

Well, you compared a setup that was going to be compared to a 150W MH right off the bat. A system that would be closer to a 70W would be 12 3W LEDs. Thats only 36W. Actually, the LEDs are run at 3.7W when run at 1000mA, and when you factor in efficiency losses, you are closer to 50W. Still a 30% savings.

[mg4015]

nice build! i am thinking abouth this for my ap24 and will probably start the project over the summer. what is the size of the fans you run right next to the heatsink? and with this many led's are optics necesary for sps at all? i will start these really dimmed down as i would be upgrading from stock aquapod lighting, and would love to keep more sps.

[Minadin]

nice build! i am thinking abouth this for my ap24 and will probably start the project over the summer. what is the size of the fans you run right next to the heatsink? and with this many led's are optics necesary for sps at all? i will start these really dimmed down as i would be upgrading from stock aquapod lighting, and would love to keep more sps.

 

Thanks, I used 40mm for the heatsink as they are a perfect fit. Optics are necessary if you are keeping sps on the sandbed. So far the acro is about 4 -5" from lights at top and I have no optics on. Growth is there but acro turned from green to a whitish blue. I thought it was bleaching but the arms are getting longer so it is not dead. All the polyps and what not are growing and dividing fast.

 

I am so wanting a larger tank say 55 gallon so keep an eye out I may sell all my led's and psu's etc. if I do buy the 55 gall as I cannot afford another $400 for more led's.

[mg4015]

also what is the purpose of the dc jack and cord if you hook the buckpucks to the powersupply, and the power supply to the wall with a normal cord?

 

also are the lowes items in store only? the item numbers on all of them are not appearing in their online store

[cptbjorn]

Nice job on the project, it looks very professional. Makes me want to get started on mine sooner.

 

Just one recommendation, if you are still using the DC jack as the AC in to the power supply box, it would be a very good idea to switch it out with something made for AC power. The DC jacks are made for low voltages and while they can also pass high voltages just fine, it is much easier for you or someone else to be shocked because the metal contacts are much more exposed. Even if the hot wire is in the center of the plug and hard to get at, there are a number of wiring faults that can put 120v on the neutral wire as well and those faults are WAY more common than you would think, and on one of these kinds of plugs it would basically become a cattle prod.

 

Something like one of these would work and accept standard power cables:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch...mp;name=Q269-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch...mp;name=Q210-ND

The first one works with a Playstation/PS2 style power cable, the second with a computer style cable.

[Minadin]

also what is the purpose of the dc jack and cord if you hook the buckpucks to the powersupply, and the power supply to the wall with a normal cord?

 

also are the lowes items in store only? the item numbers on all of them are not appearing in their online store

 

The buckpucks are in the hood which allows the pots to be mounted in hood for led control. The dc jack & cord allows each color/string to be controlled independent of each other. The dc jack/cord allows for quick disconnect & reconnect of individual lights should it be needed.

 

Lowes.com may not have all items but you can call any local Lowes and they will do stock check right over phone.

 

 

 

Nice job on the project, it looks very professional. Makes me want to get started on mine sooner.

 

Just one recommendation, if you are still using the DC jack as the AC in to the power supply box, it would be a very good idea to switch it out with something made for AC power. The DC jacks are made for low voltages and while they can also pass high voltages just fine, it is much easier for you or someone else to be shocked because the metal contacts are much more exposed. Even if the hot wire is in the center of the plug and hard to get at, there are a number of wiring faults that can put 120v on the neutral wire as well and those faults are WAY more common than you would think, and on one of these kinds of plugs it would basically become a cattle prod.

 

Something like one of these would work and accept standard power cables:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch...mp;name=Q269-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch...mp;name=Q210-ND

The first one works with a Playstation/PS2 style power cable, the second with a computer style cable.

 

This cord was used as power in to psu. It is listed in the materials list.

 

6FT IEC Power Cord UL LISTED - MPJA.com - $2.49

[cptbjorn]

Sorry, I thought from the pic that you had the power supply in the project box with the barrel jack as its AC in connection. That cord looks much better

[mg4015]

hey minadin,

 

i am going to be building a very similar project to yours for my aquapod, and was wondering how difficult it is to drill and tap the holes by yourself. i do not have a drill press, and my concerns are 1)how difficult is it to drill through aluminum? 2) is it difficult to get a nice, clean, straight hole? and 3) what is needed for tapping other than the bit and the wrench? i am not a skilled person wih mechanics, and am contemplating asking someone more skilled to do this if it is worth is. thanks

[Minadin]

hey minadin,

 

i am going to be building a very similar project to yours for my aquapod, and was wondering how difficult it is to drill and tap the holes by yourself. i do not have a drill press, and my concerns are 1)how difficult is it to drill through aluminum? 2) is it difficult to get a nice, clean, straight hole? and 3) what is needed for tapping other than the bit and the wrench? i am not a skilled person wih mechanics, and am contemplating asking someone more skilled to do this if it is worth is. thanks

 

Actually drilling is easy with a drill press, which is what I used. A hand drill can be used but a drill press makes it so easy. Use the cutting fluid and do not be stingy with it. I broke 1 each of drill bit & tapping bit during this project. Drilling aluminum was easy, think of crushing an aluminum can with your fist :>

 

All that is needed for tapping is patience, tap wrench and bit, cutting fluid & patience. I am not mechanically inclined but this was super easy to do.

 

I put my project together in one easy read with photos at Where's My Drink. The post will be finished in about an hour so check it out.

 

Thanks