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LED MeanWell power supply?


zingtaw

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It can be done, but you need to adjust the output voltage lower with SVR1. It takes some experimenting to get it right.

What should the target ourput voltage be for 6 Crees? Have you played with the ELN-30-27D? Chris at nanotuners acted like they are just starting to sell them and I could not find anything with a search.

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Output should be about 22v for 6 Crees at 1000mA. Many of the other ELN drivers have been hard to come by, but I know we have been getting more and more in. The ELN-30-48 is already on the site, but has the same voltage issue, and only runs at about 640mA. ELN-30-27s should be in somewhat soon, and will run 6 LEDs just fine.

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Just to clarify this is for dim control for the p model correct? and what diodes did you use?

Ok, here is something I made to aid in clarification for those trying to make the pwm circuit for the "P" models.

 

555PWM.jpg

 

Black lines are component leads

Red lines are bottom side solder traces

Blue lines are top side wires

 

Use a 12v or greater (up to 32v) power supply for this.

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Correct. 7-13 LEDs on an ELN-60-48 (down to 6 with a little work).

 

Little work being add resistor to the 6 LEDs and/or decrease output voltage with SVR1 on ELN-60-48? Thanks

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Just to clarify this is for dim control for the p model correct? and what diodes did you use?

Yes, that's for the "P" model.

 

Little work being add resistor to the 6 LEDs and/or decrease output voltage with SVR1 on ELN-60-48? Thanks

Adjusting the voltage down is fine. Adding a resistor is just wasting energy and adding heat.

 

For those of you looking to build the 0-10v analog dimmer for the "D" models, here is a diagram for you to follow. This will let you use anything from a 12-32v supply and still give you 1.25-10v output for the Meanwell.

 

0-10VLM317.jpg

 

Red lines are "solder traces"

 

All parts are available from Radioshack.

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DashingAquatics

What if you wanted to build a pwm to control 4 eln drivers? Could this be done? Would it be a lot of work to add a temp sensor to dim the leds if they run to hot?

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Same circuit, connect 4 drivers to it.

 

For a temp cutoff, it's not impossible. One thing I suggested as a really simple (but not the cheapest) option is just a Ranco temp controller. A comparitor circuit to monitor temperature can be used also, but it's a little more work, and more circuits to assemble.

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I am still waiting on my ELN-30-27Ds to get to nanotuners so I can do my build. I know buckpacks would work, but I really like getting everything from on place, and they seem like the best drivers for my build out of what they offer.

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DashingAquatics
Same circuit, connect 4 drivers to it.

 

For a temp cutoff, it's not impossible. One thing I suggested as a really simple (but not the cheapest) option is just a Ranco temp controller. A comparitor circuit to monitor temperature can be used also, but it's a little more work, and more circuits to assemble.

 

Do you think I would be able to find a parts list to assemple a temp controller myself on the mouser website? Have you ever built one your self evilc66?

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DashingAquatics
Yes, that's for the "P" model.

 

 

Adjusting the voltage down is fine. Adding a resistor is just wasting energy and adding heat.

 

For those of you looking to build the 0-10v analog dimmer for the "D" models, here is a diagram for you to follow. This will let you use anything from a 12-32v supply and still give you 1.25-10v output for the Meanwell.

 

0-10VLM317.jpg

 

Red lines are "solder traces"

 

All parts are available from Radioshack.

 

I only see V in and V out where is the Dim - and Dim +?

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dim- is ground and dim+ is Vout, the LM317 is for dimming the "D" version though and it doesn't create a PWM output, it creates a variable DC output.

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Do you think I would be able to find a parts list to assemple a temp controller myself on the mouser website? Have you ever built one your self evilc66?

 

After a little aimless poking around on the Nanotuners website, we have a thermal cutoff that is used in the MH retro kits. It has a 75C/167F cutoff temp that you can attach to the heatsink, and wire in series to the AC side of the drivers.

 

http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?products_id=383

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DashingAquatics
After a little aimless poking around on the Nanotuners website, we have a thermal cutoff that is used in the MH retro kits. It has a 75C/167F cutoff temp that you can attach to the heatsink, and wire in series to the AC side of the drivers.

 

http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?products_id=383

 

Perfect, Could I wire 1 to 5 drivers on the ac side or would I need 5 seperate ones? Would the parts list I posted in this thread be good to build the pwm circuit?

 

Thanks.

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Perfect, Could I wire 1 to 5 drivers on the ac side or would I need 5 seperate ones? Would the parts list I posted in this thread be good to build the pwm circuit?

 

Thanks.

It's got more than enough current handling capability to deal with 5 drivers.

 

Can the analog vr for the d models be hooked up to 4 at the same time?

Yup.

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Can someone please tell me what the difference between the Mean Well ELN-60-48D and the Mean Well ELN-60-48P is, considering both are dimmable?

 

I`m going to use two Mean Well drivers to run an easy LED setup with 12 Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White and 12 Cree XR-E Royal Blue. Since the Mean Wells can handle input voltage up to 264 VAC I was planning on plugging the drivers straight into the wall outlet. You guys see any problem with that?

 

All help will be much appreciated :)

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the p series need pwm to dim. the d series uses a 1-10v signal for dimming. the d's imho would be easier to wire up for dimming, either variable voltage or using an alc controller from a reefkeeper lite/elite. the p series would be better if you were using an arduino controller or something.

 

you would have to either order 220 versions or rewire them, I'm sure it would be that difficult.

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Ok, so when it says that a driver is dimmable, it doesn`t mean that you can actually dim the lights on the driver?

You need something else too?

A link would be much appreciated B)

 

the p series need pwm to dim. the d series uses a 1-10v signal for dimming. the d's imho would be easier to wire up for dimming, either variable voltage or using an alc controller from a reefkeeper lite/elite. the p series would be better if you were using an arduino controller or something.

 

you would have to either order 220 versions or rewire them, I'm sure it would be that difficult.

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DashingAquatics
Ok, so when it says that a driver is dimmable, it doesn`t mean that you can actually dim the lights on the driver?

You need something else too?

A link would be much appreciated B)

 

Start reading on pg 1 of this thread, it might help. I've read this thread about 5 times, their is a lot of great information in it.

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you would have to either order 220 versions or rewire them, I'm sure it would be that difficult.

You don't have to order voltage specific models. All Meanwells can take 95-265v AC input for worldwide use.

 

Ok, so when it says that a driver is dimmable, it doesn`t mean that you can actually dim the lights on the driver?

You need something else too?

A link would be much appreciated B)

The drivers are dimmable by default. You need to supply the signal to get it to work. Depending on which driver you order, will depend on the input signal you need to provide. Start at page 1 and keep reading. All the info you need is in this thread.

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