Mag Drive 3 to much flow?

[homebrewed]

My tank dimensions are 48"x8"x12" and I plan to have my 3/4" returns 12" in on either side which will then be split in 1/2 lineloc. After the rise and flow restrictions (elbows in plumbing) I figure the pump should be pushing 300gph or slightly under (according to their specs). Since I need to move a 48" long column of water and I don't want to put in a power head I figured I should use some serious current.

 

Any suggestions? Should I just go with the Mag2? its about 170gph by the time it hits the tank.

 

Thanks

 

Tim

[AllXJ96]

Hey Tim, I've got a Mag 3 on my 29 gal biocube pumpin water from my fuge back up to my tank through the stock head, and a Knano powerhead and would still like more flow, the Mag3 would move water, but you should get over it and put some Koralia power heads in there, they dont look that bad... and you will hardly notice them after the coraline algea covers them.

[Ryan_H]

go with 1" drains and a mag 7.

[homebrewed]

Hey Tim, I've got a Mag 3 on my 29 gal biocube pumpin water from my fuge back up to my tank through the stock head, and a Knano powerhead and would still like more flow, the Mag3 would move water, but you should get over it and put some Koralia power heads in there, they dont look that bad... and you will hardly notice them after the coraline algea covers them.

 

I'm just worried the tank being 8" wide and having a powerhead taking up front to back space. Do you think a mag5 with 2 3/4" returns to the tank and each return split into 3 1/2" outlets would be effective? I'd like a powerhead to be a last resort.

 

go with 1" drains and a mag 7.

 

I was thinking about going with a 1" drain. It will be a center overflow. As for the Mag7, that will take up a fair bit of real estate in my sump (24x8x10). I don't think I could go any bigger than a Mag5

[Ryan_H]

I'm just worried the tank being 8" wide and having a powerhead taking up front to back space. Do you think a mag5 with 2 3/4" returns to the tank and each return split into 3 1/2" outlets would be effective? I'd like a powerhead to be a last resort.

 

 

 

I was thinking about going with a 1" drain. It will be a center overflow. As for the Mag7, that will take up a fair bit of real estate in my sump (24x8x10). I don't think I could go any bigger than a Mag5

 

the mag 5 and mag 7 have only a fraction of an inch difference in their footprint. in fact without the labels on them you could probably set them side by side and not tell them apart. but a mag 5 would be ok as well. since you are drilling the tank anyway, you may want to consider a closed loop to avoid the powerheads, so you can go with a lower turnover return pump to increase dwell-time in your sump and improve skimmer efficiency and overall filtration.

[homebrewed]

the mag 5 and mag 7 have only a fraction of an inch difference in their footprint. in fact without the labels on them you could probably set them side by side and not tell them apart. but a mag 5 would be ok as well. since you are drilling the tank anyway, you may want to consider a closed loop to avoid the powerheads, so you can go with a lower turnover return pump to increase dwell-time in your sump and improve skimmer efficiency and overall filtration.

 

You're right about the size. Thanks for the clarification. I thought the 5 was the same size as 3.

 

I don't quite fully understand how a close loop works with a sump. I should then run 2 different pumps? 1 to the pump and one plumbed behind strickly for current?

[Ryan_H]

You're right about the size. Thanks for the clarification. I thought the 5 was the same size as 3.

 

I don't quite fully understand how a close loop works with a sump. I should then run 2 different pumps? 1 to the pump and one plumbed behind strickly for current?

 

exactly. you would plumb one pump in the sump with a return line, and then the second pump you would plumb an intake and multiple returns directly into the tank.

[Urchinhead]

Drill two drain holes. One for the drain to the sump and another for a drain to the closed loop.

 

Sump turnover should not be over about 10 times the tank volume (since you have a 20 gallon tank then you want to have a return pump that pushes 200 gph). Too many people try to do it all with one pump and end up compromising something in the process.

 

The closed loop would look like this:

 

<drain hole>------hose or pvc-----<pump>-----hose or pvc-----<return hole with loc line>

[homebrewed]

That sounds like a great idea. Thanks guys

 

I can drill it lower as well and not have to worry about the tank siphoning out if the power fails

 

So could go with 2 mag drive 2's. One running close loop and one running the sump

[Ryan_H]

That sounds like a great idea. Thanks guys

 

I can drill it lower as well and not have to worry about the tank siphoning out if the power fails

 

So could go with 2 mag drive 2's. One running close loop and one running the sump

 

the closed loop should not cause any flooding at all when the power goes out because it's a closed plumbing system--nowhere for water to overflow out of. i would go with a mag 2 or 3 for the return pump, and then a more powerful mag 5 or 7 for the closed loop. make sure and plumb in a ball valve and then disconnects of some kind between the pump and the ball valve, so you can seal off the pipes coming from the tank and then easily remove the pump for maintenance as needed (shouldn't be needed more than about once a year, unless you tank has a lot of gunk floating around).

 

example:

 

intake--->ball valve--->disconnect--->pump<---disconnect<---ball valve<---returns

 

i would use 1 return from the return pump, and then at least 2 returns from the closed loop, or possibly 4, with 2 high and 2 low. on a tank that size with a pump that size, you will probably want to convert from pvc coming off the pump to soft tubing going to the tank, so you have more flexibility, and let the pump sit in a small tupperware container to catch any potential drips.

[homebrewed]

the closed loop should not cause any flooding at all when the power goes out because it's a closed plumbing system--nowhere for water to overflow out of. i would go with a mag 2 or 3 for the return pump, and then a more powerful mag 5 or 7 for the closed loop. make sure and plumb in a ball valve and then disconnects of some kind between the pump and the ball valve, so you can seal off the pipes coming from the tank and then easily remove the pump for maintenance as needed (shouldn't be needed more than about once a year, unless you tank has a lot of gunk floating around).

 

example:

 

intake--->ball valve--->disconnect--->pump<---disconnect<---ball valve<---returns

 

i would use 1 return from the return pump, and then at least 2 returns from the closed loop, or possibly 4, with 2 high and 2 low. on a tank that size with a pump that size, you will probably want to convert from pvc coming off the pump to soft tubing going to the tank, so you have more flexibility, and let the pump sit in a small tupperware container to catch any potential drips.

 

I like that idea alot more than what I originally planned.

 

Thanks for all the info

 

Tim