Codeman Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 Hey all, I got my RO/DI unit from UPS wednesday and I was reading through the instructions and WTF'd a few times so I decided I'd better consult the masses before I went ahead with it. First of all, is it normal to have to pierce a water pipe and drill it out? I'd rather not pierce any pipes if possible. Also, can I use a bucket or barrel to collect water in, or will it run continually and overflow? The instructions say: This system could be shut off by connecting and CLOSE container (like pressure water tank, ice maker or floating ball valve...) to collect the pure water. It will stop flow waste water, as the container is full. If you don't connect any close container to collect the pure water, you have to turn off the incoming tap water manually and the system will NOT shut off automatically. Soo.... is a "CLOSE" container: a. Nearby b. Closed c. Pressurized I can provide high res photos of the instructions if need be. Thanks! Link to comment
bonsaidarrell Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Hey all, I got my RO/DI unit from UPS wednesday and I was reading through the instructions and WTF'd a few times so I decided I'd better consult the masses before I went ahead with it. First of all, is it normal to have to pierce a water pipe and drill it out? I'd rather not pierce any pipes if possible. Is this for the waste, or the supply? If for the supply, you can probably get a T connector to go between the cold supply shut off valve and the line to the faucet. If it is the waste line, you could just run an extra length of line and put it in the sink when in use. If you do that, I would put a shut-off valve on it. Also, can I use a bucket or barrel to collect water in, or will it run continually and overflow? The instructions say: Soo.... is a "CLOSE" container: a. Nearby b. Closed c. Pressurized I can provide high res photos of the instructions if need be. Thanks! Well, I don't under stand that either, but mine has a shut off valve on the line, I think that would do the same thing. -Darrell Link to comment
JustReef Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Soo.... is a "CLOSE" container: a. Nearby b. Closed c. Pressurized I can provide high res photos of the instructions if need be. Thanks! Put a float valve on your container. I use a rubbermaid tub and drilled the side of it to put in a float valve. When it is full, the valve closes and the R/O unit shuts off. For your input, you can get an adapter to connect it to your faucet or to your washing machine connection. If you are handly with plumbing, you can also plumb in a tee somewhere in your cold water line and connect it that way. I didn't like the sound of punching a hole in my pipes either. (Sounds like you bought an ebay unit like me). Link to comment
REEFBUG Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 The piercing water pipe is for the waste water, you don't have to pierce the pipe, you just need to put the waste hose somewhere to drain. Piercing the pipe is best though, it's not a big deal. I think the instructions are translated into english. I believe it should have said a CLOSED container because the unit has a pressure switch, so when the container is full it stops making water. So they are talking about a sealed system, like the ice maker in your fridge or a pressurized tank. You can use an open container with a float valve. I have two, one setup each way. Chris Link to comment
Codeman Posted December 2, 2008 Author Share Posted December 2, 2008 I guess I'll get a float valve then. Reefbug: My kit wants you to drill a hole in the pvc for waste water and pierce the cold water pipe for incoming water and since I'm installing it in my basement there is a floor drain I can put the waste water tube into. Link to comment
scarfish Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 If you have a standard washer/dryer hookup, connect the incoming water tube before the cold water hose to your washer. The waste tube, just stick it in the pvc drain pipe along with the washer drain hose. Blue valve handle turns RO on/off. Simple. Link to comment
IMaNoob Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 how about some instructions on installing the float switch next.... Link to comment
JustReef Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 how about some instructions on installing the float switch next.... That was actually pretty easy. I bought this one and it came with some pretty good instructions. It even tells you want drill bit to use to drill your hole. It also easily connects to the same 1/4 tubing that your R/O unit uses. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...cfm?pcatid=5607 Link to comment
scarfish Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 how about some instructions on installing the float switch next.... Float switch for what? You get up and turn it off when its made the amount of water you need. They are pretty consistent in time to make a certain amount of water. Link to comment
dflash Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 I did not want to punch holes or solder anything either. So this is how I did it. I purchased a y- spliter from Home Depot. $3.50 and a garden hose adapter from the same guy I bought the RO/DI on Ebay. I agree with the float valve comment ^^ , you dont need that unless you are going to set it up as an auto-top-off. If all you want is to collect water to make your own saltwater and top off evaporation, just get a 5gal water jug and time it the first time for how long it would take to fill up. In my case it takes about 2:30 to produce 5gal. with 50lb of water preassure going into the Ro/DI system. Link to comment
dflash Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 Forgot to mention that when they talk about closed container, they ussually refer to pressurized collection tanks. It looks like a BBQ grill gas tank, but it's pumped with about 15lb of air and has a latex membrane inside. The RO unit will force water into the membrane and it will fill until the negative pressure in the tank does not allow it inflate further. This will then stop water production. Link to comment
Codeman Posted December 2, 2008 Author Share Posted December 2, 2008 Well, what I want to do is get a barrel and drill the float valve into it so it will fill the barrel so I have plenty of water on hand at all times. There is a standard garden hose faucet hookup in my basement that I plan to use and have it run all the time and just have it auto shutoff via the float valve and built in auto shutoff valve. I'm going to order the Coralife pure flo II float valve for $10, this will work with all 1/4" tubing, right? Also, can I get the garden hose adapter at home depot or lowes? I'd like to get everything together ASAP so I can get it up and running. Thanks. Link to comment
IMaNoob Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 yes you can get at homedepot or lowes. i got mine at homedepot in plumbing section. so on that float switch above, does that just connect to the end of the hose? Link to comment
Codeman Posted December 2, 2008 Author Share Posted December 2, 2008 yes you can get at homedepot or lowes. i got mine at homedepot in plumbing section. so on that float switch above, does that just connect to the end of the hose? Most fit 1/4" hose, it runs straight through the valve. You can get the garden hose to 1/4" tubing adapter at HD/lowe's? Link to comment
IMaNoob Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 oh not sure about the adapter. i was talking about the splitter Link to comment
Codeman Posted December 2, 2008 Author Share Posted December 2, 2008 Crap, I just need that to at least get some water to work with for now, I can get everything for my reservoir later. Link to comment
dflash Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 Most fit 1/4" hose, it runs straight through the valve. You can get the garden hose to 1/4" tubing adapter at HD/lowe's? I went to four Home Depot stores in my area and none of them had the 1/4" line to garden hose adapter. That's why I ended up buying it online. They do have the y-spliter. Link to comment
Codeman Posted December 3, 2008 Author Share Posted December 3, 2008 Well, I went to lowe's and got two brass fittings that do the job. It's all hooked up in the basement, I just need the float switch which has been ordered. It should be flushed and ready to go by now, but I have a paper to write, so I'll post reports later. Link to comment
dflash Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Well, I went to lowe's and got two brass fittings that do the job. It's all hooked up in the basement, I just need the float switch which has been ordered. It should be flushed and ready to go by now, but I have a paper to write, so I'll post reports later. Quick note... if you are going to be making water to store for longer than 1-2 days I recommend that you place a cover on the container so it does not collect dust. Also, try to keep a power head moving the water to oxygenate it. my .02 Link to comment
Codeman Posted December 4, 2008 Author Share Posted December 4, 2008 Quick note... if you are going to be making water to store for longer than 1-2 days I recommend that you place a cover on the container so it does not collect dust. Also, try to keep a power head moving the water to oxygenate it. my .02 Oh yeah, for got to mention I got a 18 gallon rubbermaid bin for a reservoir, and yes I plan to keep the lid on it. Link to comment
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