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First tank, First post 6g JBJ nano cube


beren

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Greetings, All!

 

This is my first reef tank (and first post!) :D . Everyone here seems to be very knowledgeable

and very nice. I have learned a lot so far and wanted to start my own thread to share and learn.

I have had a 55g freshwater for several years and have always wanted a reef tank for as long

as I can remember. I also have a friend at work is really into fish tanks so I decided to finally take

the plunge (pun intended). I spent many a night staying up WAY past my bedtime reading the

forums (especially the DIY LED) and decided I wanted something small that could sit in between

my girlfriend's desk and my computer area so it will get a lot of attention.

 

post-39827-1226886178_thumb.jpg

 

I also wanted to have lighting to support more than just soft corals, mostly because I do not

want to be limited in what I can keep because of my lighting. I settled on a JBJ 6 gallon nano cube,

and found it on sale for about $76 at http://www.jbjnanocubes.com.

 

Here's the tank with it's first inhabitant, the rare and beautiful dogfish :lol: :

 

post-39827-1226886532_thumb.jpg

 

I decided against buying a modded hood from a site like nanotuners.com, instead I would just

buy my own LEDs and add them to the hood myself to supplement the 18W pc lighting that comes

with that model. Here is my parts list for that mod:

 

1 x 36V @ 4.2A 150W POWERSUPPLY1 POWER SUPP1 $18.95 from mpja.com

3 x XR7090 1-Watt LED UV leds $12.95 from superbrightleds.com

3 x Cree XR-E Q4 Star LED CREEXRE-W100 (white) $8.49

3 x Cree Blue XR-E Star LED CREEXRE-B (blue) $8.49

1 x BuckPuck, 350mA wired DC Powered w/ Potentiometer $19.99 from ledsupply.com

 

The JBJ comes with a rocker switch for the lights. Forward turns on the pc and fans,

middle is off, and towards the back is the nightlights. Since I didn't want to have

to manually toggle the lights, I decided to rewire the nightlight leds already in the

hood to one of these light fixtures I already had around the house:

 

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90126665

 

That way, I can plug them into a timer and have the nightlights and my fuge light come

on automatically every night for a few hours. The IKEA fixture has a 350Ma led driver

integrated into the plug which is nice, and that splits off to drive two LEDs.

After getting the go ahead from the girlfriend, I took the fixture and cut one of

the lights off entirely. Then I dismantled the outer enclosure for the second

and what I was left with was one led enclosed in a 2 inch metal puck and a pair

of bare wires which I then spliced to the the 2 nightlight leds. The modded IKEA led

fit in the enclosed fixture space without having to dremel anything. The only thing

I had to dremel was an extra notch in the back of the hood so all the new wiring can exit.

You can see the IKEA led at the bottom of this pic:

 

post-39827-1226886263_thumb.jpg

 

Each cluster of 3 has 1 blue, 1 white, and one UV.

 

The pc lighting and fans are plugged into another timer that will run 11am to 11pm, and the LED

array I added will be plugged into yet another timer that will probably run from about 2pm to 9pm.

I won't get the power supply for the big LED array until Tues, so I won't know until then

how much heat those suckers put out. I'm hoping I can find a happy medium between brightness

and heat using the potentiometer.

 

For flow I decided to get a minijet 606 which wasn't a huge win, since the 6g JBJ already comes

with a 105 GPH powerhead. The only thing I really get with this is a little more piece of mind since

the minis seem to have a good reputation. Plus I need an extra pump for preparing SW in a bucket.

I added a rotating output nozzle and pulled out all the various filters that came with the cube.

I was also pleasantly surprised to see the tank came with modular surface skimmer, which I have

seen online for anywhere from $8 to $15. They are meant to just be held in place by the water flow,

but I decided to just epoxy it to the back wall with reef epoxy so I wouldn't have to fish it out everytime

I turn off the pump, or change the water, etc.

 

After mixing the DI water and salt for 24 hours, I went to salt water city in Bellevue, WA and bought 9 lbs.

of cured LR along with a bag of live sand. I put a few small pieces of LR in chambers 1 and 2 leaving enough

room in #2 for a baseball sized piece of cheato. Some of the LR has a white crusty layer on it that reminds me

of the frosting on shredded mini wheat cereal. Are these calcium deposits???

 

FTS

 

with flash:

post-39827-1226886302_thumb.jpg

 

and without:

post-39827-1226886320_thumb.jpg

 

I wonder what this is?

 

post-39827-1226886799_thumb.jpg

 

Initial readings:

minutes after adding live rock:

PH 8.4

Density 1.023

A 0.25

Nitrite 0

Nitrate 1

 

24 hours later:

PH 7.9

Density 1.022

A 0.01 ??

Nitrite 0

Nitrate 1

 

I am also using aqua calculator to track the numbers while it cycles. There's a nifty

graphing tool to visually see what's going on.

 

For water, I decided to just buy a 1 gallon jug and once a week stop in at Whole Foods

on my way home from work (I walk to work) to fill it with DI water from

the big machine they have there. I did the math and for me, only doing a 1 gallon water

change each week makes more sense than buying a RO/DI filter. A gallon of DI at

the store costs 39 cents, which only comes to 20.28 / yr and I don't have to worry about

buying / changing filters.

 

That's it for now, I hope to learn and share as much as possible (and maybe even

help someone else out along the way!). :)

 

All input is welcome, Thanks!

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Wow, some one's done their tech research. Impressive for your first go at it.

Great start, post tons of pics!!!

 

Thanks for the kind words. It's good to get some validation that I am moving

in the right direction! :)

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I didn't like how tall my aquascape was, so of course I had to change it. Here's a pic

from last night right after shifting some rocks around.

post-39827-1226945425_thumb.jpg

I was very careful to make sure I can fit the mag float all the way around the tank without getting snagged on any rocks. Plus I like the cave being bigger.

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Ditch the mag float. Really. You can get a closer clean without it. AND, if you haven't seen cases like this already, let me warn you-- it happened to me. Little tiny bits of sand get trapped in the Velcro-y thing on the part that's in the water, and when you go to clean it destroys your front viewing panel. Scratches up and down and all around. Trust me, it bugs the hell outa me that it ruins the fts view of my tank.

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Ditch the mag float. Really. You can get a closer clean without it. AND, if you haven't seen cases like this already, let me warn you-- it happened to me. Little tiny bits of sand get trapped in the Velcro-y thing on the part that's in the water, and when you go to clean it destroys your front viewing panel. Scratches up and down and all around. Trust me, it bugs the hell outa me that it ruins the fts view of my tank.

 

Thanks for that. I have always been careful using a magfloat in my 55g FW tank, but have never

scratched the glass. What do you use in your tank?

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Okay, I can understand that... I'd still be careful because I doubt your FW substrate is as fine as the sand in your SW. It's a lot easier for sneaky lil guys to work there way in there and then mess up your nice clean bow front.

 

Some people say use a razor, but you have to be careful to replace them because they can start to rust and mess with you levels.

 

Personally, I actually use an old "credit card" style card. Its hard enough to get the algae off of the flat sides, but the real benefit comes with the bow front. Because the card is flexible, you can sorta bend the card with your thumb whilst cleaning and the card will form to the contour of the bow and get a faster, cleaner clean.

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Okay, I can understand that... I'd still be careful because I doubt your FW substrate is as fine as the sand in your SW. It's a lot easier for sneaky lil guys to work there way in there and then mess up your nice clean bow front.

 

Some people say use a razor, but you have to be careful to replace them because they can start to rust and mess with you levels.

 

Personally, I actually use an old "credit card" style card. Its hard enough to get the algae off of the flat sides, but the real benefit comes with the bow front. Because the card is flexible, you can sorta bend the card with your thumb whilst cleaning and the card will form to the contour of the bow and get a faster, cleaner clean.

 

Now THAT'S a good idea. I saw another forum discussing the tribulations of cleaning coralline off the bowfronts and the consensus seemed to be to use a spoon, but I like the card idea.

 

love the lighting

 

Thanks! I can't wait to get the power-supply tomorrow and hook up the leds!

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I don't know if I should feel lucky, or if my levels are just low and are going to skyrocket soon.... but they look pretty good right now and it's only my 3rd day!

post-39827-1226988153_thumb.jpg

Here's another shot of the altered aquascape without the cloudy water

post-39827-1226988159_thumb.jpg

and the moonlights (these are the stock lights that come with the tank)

post-39827-1226988163_thumb.jpg

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Very nice tank, I always love to see the 6gal NC. Awesome LED mods as well.

 

Thanks, I'm pretty happy with it so far. I really like your 29 bio cube! Very nice work!

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Very nice. I am new to the salt water too and have been going through the same thing as you are when it comes to the water tests. Right from the get go my levels were extremely low and I have never seen them spike, they have just continuously gotten lower. I think we both just got a really good bunch of cured like rock to help out.

 

Which testing kit are you using? I am using the marine basic right now and once I start adding more coral I will be upgrading to the reef test kit.

 

Also, I dont know what it is that you have there on the one live rock, just keep an eye on it. I do know however that the things that look like small little worms are feather duster worm casings so you may start seeing a couple pop out in a week or so. I have 5 on my one piece of live rock. I also have some sort of 8 pointed really tiny feathery polyp growing on another live rock.

 

So totally keep up the great work. You will be sitting infront of your tank a lot watching the new life grow.

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looks real nice. i was thinking of getting a nc6 too and doing the led thing. maybe u can help me out when i do get one. :-) im not good with reading wiring diagrams and such.

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nebthet -

 

Very nice. I am new to the salt water too and have been going through the same thing as you are when it comes to the water tests. Right from the get go my levels were extremely low and I have never seen them spike, they have just continuously gotten lower. I think we both just got a really good bunch of cured like rock to help out.

 

I am glad to hear it, and I think you are right, I paid a premium for my

LR from a good store on the east side of Seattle called Salt Water City.

I think that is why my numbers are so low and will most likely stay

low as long as I am smart about all this.

Which testing kit are you using? I am using the marine basic right now and once I start adding more coral I will be upgrading to the reef test kit.

 

I got the Saltwater Liquid Master Test Kit from aquariumguys.com here

 

 

Thanks, I surely will!

 

 

euphoricgear -

 

Sure! It actually is not that difficult. The leds I got were clearly labeled with + and - as well as the led driver I got.

I suggest you go over to the lighting forum and spend some time reading the led mods there. That's where I learned everything

I needed to know to get started. Good Luck! :)

 

 

keith1569 -

 

Thanks! I can't wait either. My buddy from work is going to frag me a couple of zoas to start with.

 

 

restes -

 

Thanks, aside from my buddy giving me a couple of zoas, I don't plan on getting anything

unless my readings stay at zero for a couple weeks, and then only very slowly!

 

 

hxcaquaman -

 

Yeah, after all the horror stories I've read about I don't want to make that same kind of mistake.

I'm thinking a crab or two after a couple weeks as long as my readings stay at zero.

 

 

Thanks, I had no idea what to make of it! I had to put that rock in the 'fuge when I redid the aquascape,

but I bought a diamond coated dremel cutting wheel just so I could cut live rock. I think

I'll get it out tonight and cut off that part of the rock so I can put it back in the display

area. I think I'll check the other rocks too, while I'm at it.

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you going to use any macro???

I'm a big fan of it now, I've had everything go wrong in this hobby, rather than researching and all that I did the trial and error method.

its seems like taking it slow and weekly water changes and macro algae/mangroves have made this hobby so much more rewarding.

 

Ian

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you going to use any macro???

I'm a big fan of it now, I've had everything go wrong in this hobby, rather than researching and all that I did the trial and error method.

its seems like taking it slow and weekly water changes and macro algae/mangroves have made this hobby so much more rewarding.

 

Ian

Definitely. That's what the IKEA led over the back chamber #2 is for. My friend from work is going

to bring me some tomorrow, I think. That, along with the 9 lbs of live rock and 10 lbs of live sand and weekly 1 gallon water changes should keep it healthy (I hope).

:D

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chaeto i assume?

Yes, I believe so. I should also have my LED's going tonight or tomorrow in the display

and I am going to pick up a couple of zoa's this weekend, about 15 or so.

I will post some pics as soon as the LED's are going!

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wow you are already a master led diyer! this is gonna be awesome! when you get more seasoned, sps would be cool in this small tank. definitely following this...

Thanks! This is my first go with LED's, but I am pretty handy modding electronics having built several computers, and things like adding a backlight kit to a first generation Game Boy Advance and such. :)

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